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Member Since 28 Apr 2013
Offline Last Active May 31 2013 10:26 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Wanted to share this tile technique...

30 May 2013 - 05:48 PM

Tile versions of classic video game creatures have been done for a long time, but with homemade tile it makes it even better.

In Topic: Yixing teapot process from an amateur (round two)

25 May 2013 - 01:31 PM

Everything is coming together! Here are all of the part needed to make the pot: body, spout, lid and lid base. Now just glue it together.

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The total area of the holes should be greater than the spout opening! makes sense!

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Ready to attach.

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Non functional teapot need to cut out the lid!

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Smooth the holes on the inside.


Add a handle to the lid and we are done!


I think this one is the best looking thus far.


Might be time to retire some of these "keepers"

Total time: 2.5 hours.

One hint that I was told is that when I get it down to 40min I'll be in business. Going faster helps since the clay can dry out.

One thing I've found hard is getting my clay to the right moisture level... any hints on how to do that?

In Topic: Yixing teapot process from an amateur (round two)

25 May 2013 - 01:31 PM

I'm happy with the way I make spouts for the most part.

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It's fun!

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The bottom of the lid.

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Digging it out.

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I have no idea how to make the handle smooth, I make it with very wet clay then let it get a little stiff before putting it on the teapot body. But look at how "hairy" it is. What can I try?

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Smoothing with rubber is not effective on this kind of shape.


In Topic: Yixing teapot process from an amateur (round two)

25 May 2013 - 01:30 PM

Why the image limit???? This is an arts forum images (esp remotely hosted one like the ones I use) should be ENCOURAGED. Anyway... I'm certain there's a reason for it... hmmm.

I've started making templates-- this is much easier than the compass... but is there a disadvantage to template over the traditional method?

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I don't use water to join I use yougart-thickness clay.

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Making the lid.

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Rough out the shape with slabs glued together.

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Then smooth it out. I wish I had a better way to do this.


If I don't think about what is under something I can cause problems when removing it-- from now on I'll put the lid on a template so it won't stick to the banding wheel!


In Topic: Kintsukuroi Fix

24 May 2013 - 01:29 PM


Here I am......... ;)src="http://ceramicartsda...ault/wink.gif"> .

The technique is to glue the cracked pieces together or fill in the break with a layer of what ius called urushi (Japanese lacquer, and then do one of two things.......

One way the gold is added is to mix 24 karat gold powder with the urushi before the patching is done. This means that the gold appearance is throughout the lacquer repair. This is the more durable method,.... but the more expensive.

The second method is to let the surface of the urushi projecting on the surface of the piece to get partiallly dry and "tacky"..... and then press gold leaf onto the surface to put a thin layer of gold there. Cheaper, but easier to wear off.

It is VERY, VERY, VERY important to stress here that actual urushi is the sap from a plant/tree that is sort of related to Poison Ivy/Sumac... and gives you a HORRIBLE rash. Lacquerware apprentices in Japan suffer for years until they develop an immunity.

SO that being said.... here is the English language page for a small kit that is all you need to do this:


It is not as easy as it sounds. Things like the humidity of the air will ghreatly affect the drying of the lacquer. As always........ test, test, test.



Can this technique work to repair glass?

Probably..... you'd have to test it though.



John I think you might know but I've done a lot of research on this ... and what you say is true the worst thing is that the reactions is


so you can think it's fine and there is no reaction then three days later it's hive city!

I still have some repairs I need to do but I'll have on long gloves and a vapor mask.

I'm not really allergic to poinsen IVY, but this stuff is concentrated.