Thanks, but the sugar raku I'm interested in is a variant of the 2-part naked raku process, in
which the refractory 1st coat contains sugar. Normally 2-part naked raku leaves black "crackle"
lines. On the other hand sugar raku -- from the few photos I've seen -- leaves black patches,
often with some sort of halo effect.
Overall effect is something like the left-hand pot in
Every few years I'd try again using the normal 2-part naked raku process, and got a really ugly
pot in a mixture of black and charcoal greys.
Last time I tried cooling it in oxidation, with more interesting results.
Firstly tried quenching as soon as it came out of the kiln.
quench_350.JPG 47.33KB 2 downloads
Then letting it air cool sitting on a brick
air_350.JPG 57.65KB 3 downloads
Different, but nothing like the pictures I'd seen.
Finally I tried to repeat the second experiment, but botched it. I put it on short damp grass to cool, and
it had fallen on its side by the time I got back.
grass_350.JPG 59.03KB 1 downloads
Obviously it had seen a mixture of oxidation and reduction.
So, I'm interested to know how other people cool their sugar raku.
Fired somewhere in the range 1030-1050C.
Slip was china clay 3, flint 2, sugar 2 by volume. I also tried a 3:2:1 mix but it was rather faint.