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Member Since 28 Apr 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 05:53 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Design Problem. Overhanging Edge

Yesterday, 05:58 PM

Hi, you failed to attach a picture. Easily done, I usually mess it up first time if

I haven't posted a picture for a while. FAQ entry as postscript.


Can you say why your teacher thought it was impossible to make?



How do I attach an image?

 First, you might need to resize your image. The maximum files size for each post on this forum is 500kb. In Photoshop (or similar program) make sure your image is RGB, 72dpi, and we recommend under 600 pixels wide. Then go to File > Save for Web & Devices. You should see 4 versions of the image at differing levels of quality and file sizes. Choose the smallest file size possible without compromising your image quality. Then click Save.

 After you have your image resized, go to the bottom of your post and click More Reply Options, then to Attach Files at the bottom of the page. Click Choose File button. Navigate to your photo on your computer. Choose the file and click the Attach This File button. You will see a small thumbnail of your image on the left and an Add to Post button on your right. Click the Add to Post button.

In Topic: Wrights Water Blue Crazing On G Mix 6

Yesterday, 01:52 PM

Love hi-alkaline copper glazes from raku.

However according to:


[This glaze] Has a very high calculated expansion, the degree to which it crazes is thus no surprise. There is even crazing on a 40% silica porcelain.


Which suggests that this is not a minor mis-fit issue, and that stopping the crazing might be difficult.


PS Another "water blue" which claims to be reformulated "to avoid crazing".


... but the colour is cyan.

In Topic: Repairing Cracks In Primitive Fired Pots

04 October 2015 - 08:04 PM

Peter Hayes uses stained epoxy to add a little extra detail to his raku pieces. AFAIR

he applied tape to the outside of the piece first, to give a neat finish.


Really posted to say that the colour I remember best was a blue/cyan, which contrasted

well with the raku colours.




In Topic: Ceramic Wedding Cake Stand

30 September 2015 - 04:56 PM

The interior of the sphere would be hollow unless you guys think I need to build in cross bracing.


It might be worth thinking about putting some ballast in the sphere to reduce the top-heaviness of

the whole thing. Although it would add to the weight on the table.


... and how big are the sideways forces when cutting the cake?

In Topic: Attaching Porcelain To Glass?!

28 September 2015 - 04:58 PM

I'm sorry that the first round of replies has been negative (for want of a better word, no criticism

of the posters intended).

Perhaps you would get a more constructive answer if you explained what effect you are trying to

achieve, rather than saying how you intend to achieve it (as it's unclear if that process is viable).


There may be a more promising route to meeting your goals. At guess these goals might include:

- easy manufacturing process

- nice shapes (maybe think of slip-casting from a mould taken from a glass)

- nice colours (many/most glass colours can be achieved in DIY glazes)

- ultra-thin porcelain walls (... interesting topic)

- very thick inner glassy coating

- ????

... please tell us what you are looking for


PS Now for my own doubts.


I'm quite sure one could find glass, glazing and porcelain that all melt at around the same temp...


If this was possible, IMHO it's unlikely that you could find commercial drinking glasses made of that glass.


Even if you could, you would still have to worry about: cracking due to differential shrinkage during drying and

firing; crazing and spalling due to differential shrinkage when cooling; glass flowing during the firing (glazes are

usually more viscous to avoid this); ...


Personally -- and it may be lack of imagination -- I cannot see how to get past step one (apply porcelain slip to

glass and let it dry) without it cracking. Or have I misunderstood your proposal? 


[Not entirely true if you use ceramic tape technology I suppose. But then surely it would crack during the first

stages of firing (as the porcelain starts to shrink before the glass melts).]