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Member Since 08 Jan 2011
Offline Last Active Apr 01 2014 02:21 PM

Topics I've Started

Stacking Cone 6 Greenware In Bisque Firing

29 March 2014 - 04:59 PM

I know you should be able to stack greenware for a bisque firing without incident -- but I'm always afraid to - mostly because I'm afraid that my cone 6 porcelain plates and platters will not stay flat. Generally speaking the shape doesn't change in my bisque firings (05 or 04) - but because I prefer to use fairly thin slabs to create my work, there is sometimes warping during the glaze firing.

Technically and intellecturally I know it is unlikely that cone 6 porcelain (Tuckers Bright White) will move in shape during a cone 04 or 05 firing...but still I hesitate. I would love to stack - to get a bigger load of bisque done at once. Would love to hear others experience with stacking (and when I say stacking, I just mean stacking two plates or platters - not a half dozen!)

Unglazed Cone 6 Porcelain

14 November 2013 - 09:31 AM

Can unglazed cone 6 porcelain touch in a cone 6 firing? (Not a bisque firing - a glaze firing, but without glaze).


I'm making a pile of things that will be "cold glazed" after they are high fired and I want to stack them when I fire them.




Cold Glazing Porcelain And Stoneware Beads And Pendants

26 July 2013 - 07:01 AM

I've been making ceramic beads from scrap of stoneware and porcelain and glazing them in the normal way - but have now started painting unglazed fired beads with acrylic paints because I like the control I get to see the  actual colors while I am working on the beads - also I like layering, wiping, staining etc on textured pieces. In my first attempts I'm just using regular artist acrylic paints and am going to try tinted gilders wax as well but would be interested in other options for staining the fired clay as well. But my biggest questions is, how to finish them? I know polymer clay artists use varathane and pledge floor polish (!) and even modge podge to seal the finish. Just curious if fired clay artists use something different to finish their beads.

Making bisque molds

06 May 2013 - 05:31 PM

I make a lot of organic shaped bowls using acorn and other winter squashes as "molds" - that is, I form clay over the squashes to create the bowl shape I want.
It's not always easy to find just the right shaped squash at the market or farm stand (I get a lot of funny looks at the grocery store, as I examine the squashes very closely, sometimes for several minutes each!)..and when I find one I particularly like, I want to make as many bowls as possible from it. So I thought I'd try making bisque molds of some of them, to avoid losing the great shapes when the squashes eventually rot! (they last a surprisingly long time)
I've never made bisque molds before -- any advice about what kind of clay, and what cone to fire them to?
I've just made one today from the cone 6 porcelain clay I use -- (it's drying now) but I'm wondering if there is some reason to make these molds from low fire clay instead? I was planning on firing this cone 6 porcelain mold to cone 04, for the purpose of making the mold - but not sure that's right.
I have low fire cone 04 white clay, and I also have some very sturdy cone 6 black clay - which never warps..wondering if it might be a suitable choice for this task, aside from the issue of it possibly staining the white cone 6 porcelain I will be using to make the bowls, from these molds.

Thanks for any tips.
I've attached some pix of the what the bowls eventually look like when I'm finished embellishing them.

Attached File  lace bowls.jpg   315.86KB   123 downloads
[attachment=2333:two lace bowls.jpg]