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Member Since 22 Nov 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 06:29 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Rocket Mass Heater To Heat Studio.

Yesterday, 06:27 PM

I see. Yeah you could definitely use the thermal mass for a place for drying pots. I came across a restaurant that lined their patio with it and used it for booth seating. I actually dug mine up :-/ My studio is very long and skinny ( 10ish by 40ish) and I decided after a few months to pull it up because the heat dissipated by the time it got to my far wall where my wheel is. The place where I put it was the only area where Theres no foundation. Its the same in the summer with cooling, I have fans but the flow stops by the middle. Its in an old pole barn. The other reason why I switched is because we do all our car work so we have a ton of waste oil from all my families oil changes. Plus I do smelt from time to time and I have need of a waste oil burner. Waste oil heaters can crank out heat so thats my future setup.


I agree with the clean burn and low temp if any exhaust. Btw I used Kawool for my inner burn chamber and old salvaged fire brick from a torn down house. There is yet another option. Its basically very close to the same idea as the rocket stove. It was invented in Europe back in the day during a wood shortage. Its very decorative and Im sure you can fabricate one on your own. It uses very little wood and burns crazy efficient with long lasting heat. The Kachelofen. Masonry stoves for another name.

In Topic: Rocket Mass Heater To Heat Studio.

19 November 2014 - 10:30 PM

Ive built one. The thing behind rocket stoves is that they function primarily as radiant heat through the barrel top and the thermal mass duct line. Theyre designed to heat homes throughout the day and are not always advised for temporary used spaces. So if youre planning on starting your day and working through it then it could be a good choice. If youre planning to work a few short hours then it might not reach temp and give off enough heat to be comfortable while you work. ANother thing is that the way to get the best performance is to really plan your thermal mass to run through your space so that ALL the heat is utilized. The only down size to the thermal mass that I find is the fact that it can be a large space hog if you are limited. If metal barrels are free/easily acquired in your area some people save money by using half barrels for the thermal mass duct work instead of buying A/C / heating pipes.


Another way for great and cheap heat is using a Double Barrel wood stove. You can build one yourself or you can acquire two metal barrels and use the Vogelzang Kit. Not only is the size of the burn drum great and can really give off a butt load of heat it takes advantage of the second upper drum to capture and radiate even more of the exhaust heat. You could also have a very small wood stove, maybe makeshift one out of a old propane tank, and make more of heat sync out by adding fins around it 4 or so inches, then enclosing the fins and blowing air through the enclosure. If you go small enough then you could get by with smaller diameter piping (metal supplier near by and that stuff comes cheap) and avoid the expense of double wall stove pipe except for when going through walls.


A third way to utilize some easy heat, since you already mentioned you burn wood, is a coil water line around your already burning stove. Hook it up into a open end boiler set up. Closed setups build up pressure and you can risk explosions. You can run a pump to pump water through the line around the stove, then through a radiator device (old car radiator/old ac unit heat sync) which has a fan to blow off the heat, then the water dumps into a cooled reservoir where the pump is. Im sure you could probably get by with out the radiator and just run another line in front of a box fan. Or it could act like Hydronic floor heating without a fan. All is possible with a good DC bilge than you could hook to a solar setup to utilize free energy. Ive gone this route to heat my greenhouse at one point in time.

In Topic: Grinding Clay, Use A Hammer Mill?

14 November 2014 - 08:24 PM

Is using a twenty dollar walmart blender out of the question? Ive done this time and time again. Ive screened local raw clay wet, dried, broken, and then add the chunks (1 to 1.5 inch in size) and blend. Ill take the blender and shake it as it blends to get it going. Blends to a find powder with no problem. I sift off the little bits and repeat. Works good, fast, and surprisingly enough the blender has yet to die.

In Topic: Best Way To Sand Bottoms Of Warped Pottery/sculpture

14 November 2014 - 08:15 PM

Ive used Diamond blades on an angle grinder before. If you live next to a harbor freight you can get blades for cheaper than name brand at typical hardware store. Theyre not to bad and Ive gotten lots of use from them. Even angle grinders if you dont have one. I have 3 of the Chicago Electric 4 & 4 1/2 in ones and they last to my abuse on glass, metal, and rock. The only thing to take into account is making small short passes so you can etch away a little at a time without chipping. Im sure this goes without mentioning as well but slow and steady wins the race if water or oil is not involved to keep the temps down.


Also depending on how hard the clay actually is you could use a wire brush attachment.

In Topic: White Speckle In Dark Clay Body?

11 November 2014 - 04:51 PM

Molochite can be used to give a white grog look. Its very dominant at about 15% when the surface is wiped away just slightly. I have a ton of granite dust that I want to experiment with in a dark clay body like you. I cant find my test tiles with the molochite in it anywhere!! I think I trashed them because I wasnt happy with the body, not the molochite.