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MichaelP

Member Since 16 Mar 2013
Offline Last Active Dec 05 2014 11:48 PM
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Topics I've Started

1. Thinning Glazes. 2. Deliberate Creating Of Pinholes

07 September 2014 - 02:31 PM

1. When I use Coyote glazes in a sprayer, many of them plug the gun filter very quickly. As far as I understand, the glazes are sold for brushing on. How do you suggest to thin them for 1. air spraying; 2. dipping?

 

2. How can I deliberately create pinholes effect in Cone 5 commercial (Coyote) glazes/ electric kiln?

Pinholled shinos are of a particular interest, but I'd like to work with others as well.

 

Thank you.

 

Mike


Defective Amaco Wax Resist?

20 July 2014 - 04:08 PM

I just opened a new jar of Amaco wax resist. I bought it a few months ago and kept indoors.

 

I mixed it well, and its appearance is normal. However, when I brush it on, it creates large particles of (I assume) wax on top of the film. After application, it looks like an old paint that has a lot of dry fragments inside.

 

Again, there are no fragments inside the liquid. They're created under the brush while I'm applying wax resist.

 

Did anybody have the same problem? Is there any way to fix the liquid, or I'll need to buy a new one? Microwaving followed by mixing maybe? Or perhaps adding water?


How This Surface Was Created

06 July 2014 - 10:23 PM

This is from the beautiful '500 cups' album by Lark Crafts.

 

Any idea how the surface of the cups was created? I mean the macro features: ridges/strips.

 

Carving (that's how it looks to me)? A material impregnated with slip and placed on the surface? Some other way?

 

Thank you.

 

Mike


Diy Kiln Vent

31 December 2013 - 04:26 PM

I just want to share a few photos of my kiln vent project.

 

The pin and its bushing were machined out of mild steel. The round foot - aluminum.

I didn't machine the circular top collar: I just found it in my scrap bin and used "as is" (the holes drilled in the collar do not interfere with its function, so I just left them alone).

 

I used the vent during several firings, then sandblasted the newly formed rust away and painted everything to finish the project. The pin was not painted. I blackened it to protect against rusting (it was heated, and used machine oil was rubbed into the surface). It looks like rust on the photos, but it's not. The inside of the bushing should be done the same way.

 

As you can see, magnets are used to regulate fresh air intake.

 

P.S. If I ever make one again, I'll use aluminum or stainless steel for everything (except the connection to the galvanized exhaust). Naturally, I'll have to make some kind of shutters instead of magnets then. This would require no painting and won't rust.


Sodium Silicate Crackle Pattern Problem

30 December 2013 - 09:28 AM

I recently made a batch of pottery using Sodium silicate to get crackled surface. Everything went extremely well.

 

A couple of days ago I decided to make another batch. I throw a piece, dry the porcelain surface a little with propane flame, apply sodium silicate or its mix with a slip, dry the layer with a heat gun and start stretching.

 

This time I only get vertical cracks that quite quickly become a way too deep. No fine cross pattern (spider web) at all. Same porcelain fresh from the box, same sodium silicate and SS/slip mix as before.

 

I tried thin and thick Sodium silicate layers, flamed and raw porcelain surfaces. The results are still exactly the same.

 

What I didn't try yet is leaving the SS crust a bit more moist. Also, this time I throw mugs, so I leave the porcelain walls thinner since I'm not going to expand them much. But even if I wanted, I couldn't expand them more because of the deep vertical cracks that rip the surface apart as soon as I overstretch it a bit.

 

While I was struggling with porcelain, my wife made a few hand built pieces out of stoneware, and didn't have this problem.

 

What do you think can be the cause?

 

Thank you.

 

Mike