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MichaelP

Member Since 16 Mar 2013
Offline Last Active Sep 28 2014 11:49 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Skutt Model A Wheel Used

27 September 2014 - 11:48 AM

all belt driven, we will pass...

Why? Belt drives, by definition, are much more simple (=reliable) than gear drives, very inexpensive and easy to repair and, with all probability, less noisy.

 

Many types of machinery benefit greatly from using gear drives, but a pottery wheel, esp., an old one, is not one of those, IMO.


In Topic: Dry Glaze

24 September 2014 - 11:46 AM

Irene,

 

Thank you. Hard to imagine how she managed to keep the vase standing up while making so many holes (esp., starting from the base). Also, did she work separately with the edges of each hole? How?

 

Mike


In Topic: Dry Glaze

22 September 2014 - 05:39 PM

Thank you for the link. Beautiful work. I wonder how she creates the coral reef texture.

 


In Topic: 1. Thinning Glazes. 2. Deliberate Creating Of Pinholes

20 September 2014 - 04:12 AM

Thank you John.


In Topic: Leveling the Wheel

18 September 2014 - 07:52 AM

Of course it it important to put your ware axis perpendicular to the wheel when your trim it. More precisely, the pot axis should coinside with the axis of wheel rotation if your goal is to trim straight and even.

 

So if the wheel is not leveled, the pot axis should be out of level to the same degree. However, since we don't have any easy way to measure and adjust the angle, the simplest approach, indeed, would be to use such a common and inexpensive tool as a bullseye (cleverly suggested by Marcia) and have both, the wheel and the pot bottom, leveled.

 

But, again, when you throw a pot (incl. use of needle tool, etc.), its axis will coinside with the wheel axis of rotation automatically regardless of the position of the wheel head in space.

 

So, for simple symmetric forms, the goal is really to return the pot you're going to trim to the same position relative to the wheel in which it was when you created it.