I am flattered that you had followed my thread....I know of an updraft olympic 10 cubic kiln that has been for sale for $750 OBO for one year.... it has been sitting for a while. So, If he is in such a hurry, he may end up giving the things away. They are not that easy to unload if they are not in working order.....So if they were free, would you take them?... What would be the cost to get them in working order?...And once restored, what would be their lifespan?
I recently drew up plans for a 12 cubic feet downdraft kiln with 9" walls. My estimate was $3000 for materials and about $1000 for power burners.
Marcia, the kiln is a bit backwards. The burners are horizontal on either side of the exit flue. The flames hit the back of the kiln where they are deflected upwards. I stacked 2" posts with 1/4 airspace between posts acting as a bag wall for the first shelf.
The flame was forceful and not licking. I neeed to turn down the air I guess and let the kiln heat up more slowly.
The drawing is the same orientation as the kiln. I am sure it will cause lots of questions.
If you want to increase silica in the glaze, use ash from faster growing plants, rice husk for example. Ash from any monocotyledon plant( where the veins in the leaves are parallel) such as grass, bamboo, cattails will have higher amount of silica which may be suffient to reduce/prevent crazing.
I have a good supply of olivine, a magnesium iron silicate also known as paridot. The Insight database calls it a refractory that melts around 2800F. Would olivine dust of about 40 mesh when added to a glaze result in green flecks?
Does anyone have any experiance with it? If not, I will post my test tile results.
Wouldn't it be great to encourage the guardians of the forum to add a glaze recipe database where one could add his or her favorite glaze recipe and allow comments on each recipe as others use the recipe, dicussing its characteristics, applications, effects of layering, pros and cons. It would be a great resource..........
Yes those letters are real. As Chris said staph is everywhere. Anywhere mold and midew grows, bacteria will be there competing for food.
Not all staph is created equal. Staph epidermatis is a normal bacteria that is on everyone's skin. It rarely causes problems and there is no reason to get rid of it unless you are headed into surgery. Most of the bacteria on our skin is protective. They compete with the bad actors like Methicillin resistant Staphalococcus aureas, knowm as MRSA. The overuse of antibacterial soaps have created the MRSA outbreaks we see today.
There have been many articles showing that playing in the dirt as a child is protective. In fact children who play in the dirt have fewer allergies as adults. One could make the arguement that potters should have a better immune system because of their clay exposure.
If someone brought samples of clay into my InstaCare I would love to do the testing. It would break my routine of colds, flues, broken bones. It could probably be written up as an interesting case study looking at what bacteria is found in ceramics and if pottery would be protective against bad bacteria like MRSA.
Although I have had a little old lady bring in over 100 jars of fecal material, so I could "examine it all." And yes Chris I did "have the nice young men in their clean white shirts come and take her away."
I have my wheel facing the wall with a mirror mounted on the wall, so I can see the shape of the piece being thrown. Consider moving the slab building table to the middle of the room so you can access it from multiple sides.
What kind of glaze would you use to maintain that crawl?
I made a glaze with a local bentonite clay. The base glaze is a nice transparent camel color. But then I added 10% rio. I layered theash glaze on top. The ash glaze absorbed some of the rio and turned a bit yellow. But it did not run and the base glaze was visible between the cracks. I'm hoping to get a better base glaze that brings out the ash glaze more.
Here is my first successful ash glaze. I call it Nuka crackle. it is fired to ^6 oxidation. It is placed on thick and cracks as it dries. The top of the tile is double dipped while the bottom is single dipped. It does not drip, but has a great matte finish.
The recipe is:
Soda Feldspar 40
Tumbleweed ash 26.7
Frit 3124 6.7
I'm thinking of using it over a darker glaze so the color is seen through the cracks.