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Member Since 09 Mar 2013
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:38 PM

#62981 Shelf Grinding

Posted by Biglou13 on 21 July 2014 - 07:54 PM

I'd love to see that.
Not to mention that some here uses fish in his designs.
And the outdoors are great for creative inspiration
And some fresh salmon would be amazing right now, smoked salmon!, gravlax, salmon sushi, sashimi, ........lucky bears!!!
There is prolly some granite content in rocks, which means there prolly is some feldspar in video also. not to mention silica,

It's video source of glaze material.

#62216 How To Correctly Dipose Of Old Glaze

Posted by Biglou13 on 11 July 2014 - 08:13 AM

we have a BOB bucket.  that we use to dump old glazes, and as a rinse wash bucket for glazing.   when there is enough we we strain and suspend if needed.  right now I have one that is a beautiful dark green, another that tested out like a celadon green.

BOB stands for bottom of barrel.   it saves from disposing the nasties.  

#62076 Course Clay Bodies

Posted by Biglou13 on 08 July 2014 - 09:52 PM

In oxidation 266. White and black Slip with clear. Mulloca grog (I think) Medium

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#62072 Course Clay Bodies

Posted by Biglou13 on 08 July 2014 - 09:40 PM

Med and coarse grog wood fired flashy clay body

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#61531 Favorite Glaze Recipes

Posted by Biglou13 on 29 June 2014 - 10:16 PM

One of my favorites is an American shino. The kusakabe book calls it "peach". Not sure why. It performs superbly. lots of different effects dependent on placement in kiln and clay, atmosphere

31 spodumene
39 neph Sy
8 soda ash
17 om4
5 epk


Pictures include side view, carbon trap detail, Carmel side, ash erosion


Ps. Really love natural woodfired effects but those don't necessarily count as glazes. I'm Also surprised there isin't much response to this thread yet, Please excuse IPhone photos

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#61402 Foot Rings And Puddles

Posted by Biglou13 on 26 June 2014 - 08:02 AM


#61302 What I Need To Know About Changing The Thermocouple.

Posted by Biglou13 on 23 June 2014 - 05:12 PM


(I learned a lot helping group/guild studio change t/c
and calibrate kiln)

Had to change. We just ran a few loads with cones 5 6 7 ended up having to make kiln hotter.

That is using cone fire mode.

But I get better results with custom ramp hold programs. And end up adjusting end temp, and hold time.

Yes I expected to need to calibrate. Unlike men, All thermo couples are not created equal. Chances are you're firings with old thermocouple were not correct either.

Unless you were firing cones prior to change. You will have to choose calibrate to cone, or calibrate to glaze performance.

Sounds like you didn't save or are familiar with previous cone performance prior to change..... I'd get kiln to proper cone first. Then adjust if necessary for glaze performance.

So yes you may have to sacrifice kiln load. Ok it's not that bad. Ours was off but still within ballpark. Yes kiln has to be loaded to calibrate to cones. According to skutt you need to leave 2 inches open in all directions around thermocouple. And you have to fire a full load. If you don't want to sacrifice a kiln load, load kiln with rejects, that you haven't thrown away.

Unfortunately one must deal with and understand some technical issues to insure consistent performance.

After you finally get it calibrated. I'd still run one cone for final temp in each firing until satisfied it set properly. From then only periodically or if you make any changes.

To further complicate you may have differences in cone performance in different parts of kiln. Like-- bottom of kiln is firing 1/2 cone cold, or hot. Hopefully it's a loading issue. If not then "Huston we have a problem". Which in our case led to diagnosing kiln with failing elements. (Elements outside of appropriate ohm range)

Hope that helps, and answer is not clear as mud.

#61068 Sanding Porcelain

Posted by Biglou13 on 18 June 2014 - 04:30 AM


100-200. Works fine. 400 almost too fine I rarely use

#59252 Clay Receipes

Posted by Biglou13 on 25 May 2014 - 11:20 PM

Goggle is you friend
Arbuckle, Alfred are good sources

I just made the zamek "perfect body"
I'm going to make so me cone 6 porcelain ish tommorow

#59202 Going Shopping

Posted by Biglou13 on 25 May 2014 - 08:36 AM

+1 for red Mud tools ribs
Not from clay store but hardware. Plywood ware boards. If you wanna get fancy slap on a few coats of oil finish,
Reuse from sandwich shop, 5 gal buckets with lids
Flexible diamond polish/sand pads
Extruder/ dies
Ware board rack
Bulls tongue
Cottle boards
Plaster wedging table with wire
Old towels
Good sound system with good play list

Dream. List
Shimpo whisper
Large japanese banding /throwing wheel
Bourry box woodfired kiln / a thousand hard bricks
Advancer or other fancy kiln shelves
Omega pyrometers
Gas fired kiln
Anagama kiln or noborigama kiln
Gas kiln
Mixing deairing pugmill
Floor drain
Private instruction from artist whose work I like
Studio assistant
Good burbon

#58036 Carbon Trapping?

Posted by Biglou13 on 06 May 2014 - 09:12 PM

The following are wood fired questions......

Is carbon trapping, the same as soot/ smoke trapping?

After all it is soot/smoke is carbon based. I have a some pieces that are almost all black on the outside.
Some body almost white with no black. Some withe black to flashy reds.

The particular clay body had approx 3% red art or 3% lizella , there remainding ingredients are porcelain and low iron ingredients. And the black is on most pots is directional. Hinting at trapping is not coming from body, but from fire. And then there are the pieces from same clay with little to no black (spots are from grog)? (Clay is much whiter than in pictures)

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#57347 Falls Creek Shino

Posted by Biglou13 on 25 April 2014 - 10:05 AM

Falls creek shino
Aka. Randy's oatmeal rust

266 slip under fcs (BIG thanks to Deborah), the others just fcs with different thickness. Unless there is texture or dark clay under glaze. Thinne application is better. I just thinned the bucket of glaze.

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#56501 Cone 6 Body Or Cone 6-10 Body: Much Difference?

Posted by Biglou13 on 11 April 2014 - 03:54 PM

This unfortunately takes LOTS of test firings.  You need a small test kiln that matches the firing type of your "normal" firings (oxidation/ reduction/soda/wood etc.).
To plot the "cone 6 to 10 clay" for Apparent Porority .... you'd likely fire to cone 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,  11, 12, 13 ...and for accuracy... put in the half-cone firings as well.

I don't actually think ill actually do the tests.......
The homework was ...... I spent hours on the Internet studying MOR, and porosity curve....
I will apply the knowledge to emprical results. And guestimations.

Me likes crazed!!!

#56474 Cone 6 Body Or Cone 6-10 Body: Much Difference?

Posted by Biglou13 on 10 April 2014 - 08:28 PM

Glaze fit has to do with matching COE with COE of glaze. ( yes I need to get on insight ), not all glazes will work with all clays.

I've read less than 3% is vitrified.....

Ok lets say I have a clay that has 2.5% @ cone six. Yet it performs well in higher firing (woodfire). How does one tell if its cone 6 is under fired , or cone 13 is over fired ?

What characteristics determine "mature" over fired, under fired?

This ring, or sound value of clay what does this tell us?? I brought some yunomi to a japanese restaurant the manager and waiters were appreciating them, Every one of them looked at them like a potter (seeing foot...). The proceeded to ping test. The stone ware I used for those didn't ping like my porcelain ware?

Great questions nancy.

#56041 Clay Body Or Glaze Fit Problem - Shattering Cups

Posted by Biglou13 on 03 April 2014 - 10:54 PM

Ok the pattern of breakage is similar to crazing, Albeit larger crazing.
My wild guess is mis match in clay to glaze
My WILD guess glaze contracted while cooling faster than clay. Or maybe (not so much) vice a versa.

If I knew what I was talking about I'd say you need to match the COE/ thermal expasion. Of glass to clay.

Please note I'm not a " brain trust" (I have stayed at holiday inn)