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Member Since 09 Mar 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 04:25 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Mixing Black Clay Body - Cone 10 - Need Expertise

Yesterday, 06:56 PM

D. Listen to you instructor. I wish I had one. (no disrespect to my on line teachers here)

A: IS what I did. He gave me wrong ingredients.
D: again, was the problem, I listened and it all failed.

The instructor NOW mentions he adds about 10% Feldspar to his mix,

In Topic: Mixing Black Clay Body - Cone 10 - Need Expertise

Yesterday, 08:05 AM

What is your firing schedule? What temp did you pull ware from kiln? How did you bisque? What atmosphere?

Is crazed? Is it shivering? Are you familiar with COE

What clay recipe are you using? Any pics of cracked up pieces? Is clay vitrified? Is this gas fired?

Ever consider glaze doesn't fit body? Maybe consider getting glaze to fit body?" If it's a proper shino which it looks like.....you have up hill task. Some will say it's easier to fit the clay to the glaze. Meaning reformulate clay

Even the mix your instructor uses is in consistent. A blend of........ I'm not saying you can't get a good clay from "the bucket"... But it will never be the same batch to batch.

You will never get a consistent clay body unless you mix from known ingredients and quantities.

Too bad your clay and glaze isn't working. Your building form,and technique, and overall aesthetic is quite good.......

There are resources to find your solution but will need testing

Your not going to like this next part.....

But you have to understand the some of the chemistry....
If you want good results you have to run tests often lots of them.
It's quite rewarding to formulate your OWN clay body.
Pottery is not a sport for the impatient
The idea of a building an "inventory" on untested materials is a bit. Crazy.
And if don't want to "test". Aka "work".... You want quick and free solution you want it now.You'll probably not find many willing to help you. ( fill in sucking from welfare teat analogy here )
In the real world if a business ran into. This problem during production. They'd hire a HIGHLY PAID ceramic consultant. Some who post here.l
If you actually work out this issue you'll beat a much better potter in the long run.

Potential solutions:
A. Go back to known clay mix your instructor is using. Keep the grog just change the size . Using same quantity of grog use 50%coarse 10 medium 40 fine.(this comes from notes from college lecture). Or just lower the coarse percentage and add 48f. Or 50f grog for balance. This should get you close softer throwing clay and possibly maintain CTE/COE of original body. And maintain original results with softer body.

B. Tough it out and throw with original clay

C. Hint "Alfred". There are Internet sources that list black clay body recipes. (These too will need testing with your current glazes)

D. Listen to you instructor. I wish I had one. (no disrespect to my on line teachers here)

In Topic: How To Correctly Dipose Of Old Glaze

11 July 2014 - 08:13 AM

we have a BOB bucket.  that we use to dump old glazes, and as a rinse wash bucket for glazing.   when there is enough we we strain and suspend if needed.  right now I have one that is a beautiful dark green, another that tested out like a celadon green.

BOB stands for bottom of barrel.   it saves from disposing the nasties.  

In Topic: Sick Clay

11 July 2014 - 03:56 AM

Babs I have toured the EDgar mines, Makers of Edgar plastic kaolin, EPK.

I can personally attest that they are very responsible, and you can rest easily (. Smile) when using. EPK.

In Topic: Calcined Kaolin? (Glomax)

11 July 2014 - 03:48 AM

I'm planning on patch work of brick for non support areas of floor eg walls. so Prills aren't fully responsible bearing load.

I'm short on bricks, and am thinking outside of box.

I'd love to use IFB.

As far as kiln sized structures go are ifb and hard brick Load bearing ability similar..