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Biglou13

Member Since 09 Mar 2013
Online Last Active Today, 08:09 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Ruined Kiln Shelves - Any Uses For Them?

Today, 05:10 PM

 

if the glaze spots are not too bad, try covering them with silica sand and use the rest of the shelf in firing.  after the first glaze firing, the silica sand should sink into the glaze and you can then cover it again with a small amount that will not sink into the melt.  kiln wash over all of it and use as normal.

Is silica sand different from regular Lake Michigan beach sand? I have some of that...  If it's different, please tell me what to look for as a place like Lowe's...are there different sizes or qualities?  

Also, do you mean to do the process of putting the sand on the glaze spots for two separate firings and then putting kiln wash over it, or do you mean firing it just once, followed by a second dose of silica sand with kiln wash immediately over that?

 

And how does this compare with using alumina hydrate, as the Guinea potter suggested? 

 

I plan to clean off loose kiln wash on one shelf and use it bottom, unused side up in the bottom of the kiln. It was actually 3 shelves damaged, but I bought two new ones.  I will be more careful in the future!  

Thanks for everyone's help!

Ginny

 

Adding this question:  Two of the ruined shelves are clean on the other side. I'd like to use one upside down in the bottom of the kiln, of course on 1 inch stilts.  I cannot get the glaze spots off and don't want to spend the time and money to get a good tool to do it!  Will the glaze spots drip down onto the floor of the kiln if I put that side down??  Here are photos of the spots, if I am able to add photos to this, post. If not, I'll add them in a new post. attachicon.gifIMG_4454.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_4455.JPG

 

that's s serviceable shelf     grinder from harbor freight $ 20   dust mask eye protection and gloves  followed by kiln wash       not a big deal


In Topic: Venturi Vs Forced Air

Today, 02:47 PM

Evenness has nothing to do with the type of burners. It has everything to do with kiln design. Either type of burner can fire a kiln evenly if the kiln is designed and built properly.

 

 

I never had any trouble bisque firing in my gas kiln. I used to bisque 50 pound planters in it without blowing them up. The key is to have a strong enough pilot that it can preheat the kiln to at least 200 degrees overnight, and you must have a blower control to slow down the blower speed so that the burner can be run at low pressure.

school is using bailey car kiln with which I have no experience

im asumming bailey is well designed kiln

which leads to next assumption  "user error" 

ill do more research!!!!!


In Topic: Venturi Vs Forced Air

Today, 08:31 AM

great points

thanks for the lessons

 

I suppose if you had one kiln (maybe a car kiln)  in a perfect world  venturi for bisque,  then forced air for glaze. ward  does have a piggy back venturi burner!

 

does any one have numbers eg gas cost cost  comparison for forced air to modern venturi.   ( venturi is definitely going to cost you on bricks/chmney)

 

what about glaze comparisons venturi vs forced air, especially shinos


In Topic: Venturi Vs Forced Air

Yesterday, 10:43 PM

It's not so much cost but about bisquing large pieces that don't fit in 1227 skutt that hopefully ultimately will be wood fired. Or for any larger/ sculptural work. Hence the bisque in larger car/ gas kiln with forced air burners?

In Topic: Ruined Kiln Shelves - Any Uses For Them?

Yesterday, 08:58 PM

grind them down wah em use them again,   it they aint broke its a serviceable piece of equipment

 

use pieces for subsequent raku firing

 

floor of fast fire

 

never throw away good refractory