I can't say I really follow them that strictly. I feel there is a lot more in modern life that is killing me quicker, especially my smoking habit, probably all the nuclear waste in the ocean and whatever crap we pollute the air with.
All in all my studio feels quite safe with its small amount of airborne silica.
I remembered an interesting post by John about different porcelains. That could be why some clays you see look very different. I always find the porcelain I buy really tough, stoneware with a bit of grog is a much easier and forgiving clay to throw with.
"True" porcelain is a composition of just a kaolin and a single ground rock - called p'tunse. It is a high silica content feldspathic based rock. Often also called "Porcelain Stone" 磁器石 ) Neil's basic "recipe" above would approximate a true porcelain (no ball clay) ....in basic chemical composition. Not particle size or distribution.
Might be a "Lost in Translation" moment.
In Japan clay bodies are almost always wet blunged with a great excess of water from far less pure materials, through repeated smaller mesh screenings as it is moved to different blunging batches, and then is filter pressed to remove the last excess water. This process produces really good quality clay out of materials that we would think of as "inferior" or "primitive" by our industrially refined standards.
In America we tend to mix clay direct to the plastic state from industrially beneficiated (dried and airfloated, etc) clays with just enough water to make it workable. This is NOT the way to make really good clay. It is the way to make cheap (production-wise) clay.
If we took the same kaolin and ground rock the Japanese (and Chinese) use for porcelain, and mixed up a body the way US suppliers typically do.... it'd likely be totally un-useable for forming.
The reason this labor and machinery intensive process 'works' in Japan is that the valuation for ceramic work is generally higher there. And they are willing to have material cost a higher percentage of the sale price (indicating respect for good starting materials). Many ceramic centers mix up their own clays from mostly local materials (hence the visual distinction between pottery "villages" work). Clay prices from suppliers in Japan in many/most places would shock you. In America... many, many potters will go to another supplier if the price of a pound of clay is even one cent more. No incentive in most cases for our suppliers to make better clay.
If that clay you got to feel was brought from Japan, Chris, it likely was produced by the blunging and the wet filter press method. That is likely a portion of the buttery quality you mention. And the repeated screening and settling process will take out the large particles so that is another part.
PS: For porcelain (in Japanese "Jiki" 磁器 -gee key-), often in the blunging there is a huge magnet suspended in the tank with the mixing slurry... to take out the hematite (iron) nodlues.
Was there anything different about your work that survived and stuff that didn't?
I agree about the firing possibly being too fast. Even though the work is dry there is still water in there. Going too quick through water turning to steam will turn your pots to rubble. Stay around for the first hour or so and you should hear it pop. I am surprised nobody has before.
Could be something else but that is the best place to start.
Thank you sure I will have some badly written code for you to look over in the future.
Going to have a lot of hardware issues before that and general electronic design to learn. First stop is a blinking LED. hopefully it will have been delivered tomorrow so I can pick it up and start messing around. The kit really isn't that expensive and is seems lots of companies are now making boards that can do anything with these new microprocessors or computers really, whatever brand you go for.
Adafruit only sell the type K thermocouple as that is what people want. If you search for the chip number MAX31855 you can find all the type chips. The only thread I could find on the forum about this is here https://forums.adafr...=type s#p395238 but they seem to say it will work fine.
Ordered a Pi and the board, you can also seem to get free sample chips from the manufacturer so ordered type s chips. Going to be a steep learning curve.
This is a place where we can challenge ourselves alongside other community members to create ceramic works within the constraints set out in each challenge.
This challenge is to make 'anything but round' Try to be creative with your research and how you translate that into an idea for your ceramic work.
Everybody can enter the challenge, all you need is a registered account on the forum.
Work in progress (WIP) images are encouraged. It can help to talk through your research and ideas but please don't spam the topic. Keep the updates informative and succinct.
One final entry per community member, images no larger than 1024 pixels wide/high.
Attach images to your final entry post along with the text Final Entry - Forum Name
This will make sure you are not missed out of the results thread. Also make sure you post your final entry in this thread to be entered into the challenge.
The challenge will run quarterly and will be
1st February to 29th April,
1st May to 30st July,
1st August to 30st October,
1st November to 30st January.
The results thread will be posted on the last day of the ending month. It will be a collection of all the entries into one post for condensed viewing and some post challenge discussion.
The Rest Remember you are entering for your own enjoyment and there could be a risk that your work develops into something new and exciting. Be considerate of others and don't post opinions without good reasons to back them up. We are all here to improve and progress with our ceramics. Some dates may vary slightly as this is a community run project and it will depend on members having access to the forum.
are all of you working with something other than google chrome? i cannot find anything you are discussing though i think i found a tree.
I use chrome, The small,medium and large options can only be found when you are in the gallery and right click on the image you are viewing.
You can either click the thumbnail,small,medium or large and drag+drop into your post that Giselle found out or click direct link (it will open a new webpage) copy the url from the top. It will end in .jpg or whatever image file format it is. Click the tree and past the url into the box that pops up.
They both do the same thing except you can choose a smaller version it looks like through Giselle drag and drop option. With the linking option you can take image sources from other sites post here without uploading it to CAD. Not all website URL can be linked.
You can see the difference, below is an image attached to the post, very small and you have to click on it to see a bigger version. Linking the image lets you show a bigger version directly in the post so no need to click for the full image, although you still can. This gets round the post attachment size problem so no need to struggle editing size.
OMG. I had to zoom in to 300% on my 19" screen to see it IS a tree. At 100% it just looks like a green blob on a green background. I thought with glasses I had pretty good vision, oohh to be young again.....
It is a very small tree at least I think it is a tree. Had to hover over it to see the 'image' text pop up before I knew what it did
It is amazing to learn about Silicate formation, found this video really interesting thinking about how all our raw materials are formed and why they have the chemistry they do. Furthermore how this bonding structure can influence working properties.
It is funny how close silicon and carbon are and the comparisons I found between the formation of Silicates and my past tuition in organic chemistry at school. It's great to think of the kiln as a small volcano breaking and forming new Alumina/Silicate structures.
Can I now view my pots as simple silicate life forms that are hibernating because it is a little cold?