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Member Since 15 Feb 2013
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:07 PM

Topics I've Started

Kiln Controller V6-Cf Series 700 Issue What Happened How Do I Figure This Out?

19 July 2015 - 09:36 AM

Basic setup and operations details:
KILN: Olympic 1823HE (high fire UP TO CONE 10) stackable kiln 2 years and 2 months old, bought new
CONTROLLER: V6-CF Series 700
50amp breaker with professionally installed electrical conduit and shut off switch
Plugged into outlet not hard wired

Kiln has been fired 83 times:
39 cone 04 slow bisque
41 cone 6 slow glaze
3 transfer only firings of cone 04 on fast glaze setting
Glaze fire is done using the basic Slow Glaze setting on the controller no special programming
Glaze firing takes between 7 hour 40 minutes and 8 hour 10 minutes, this one says it took 7 hour 55 minutes. Time variances are known that they are due to the load being fired

Controller temperature usual reads between for a cone 6 glaze firing usually reads between 2235 and 2237. It says this time it got to 2237

The issue that occurred:
I had something weird happen last night/early this morning with my v6-cf series 700 controller.
I started a Cone 6 Slow Glaze firing last night at 5:30pm. It almost always takes around 8 hours to fire so it should end around 1:30am. I usually stay up and monitor it on my camera that I have focused on it so I know everything is going ok. Well last night I fell asleep around midnight and when I woke up at 4:30am I checked the camera and saw no red readout from my digital controller screen.

I went down and checked it out as this has never happened before. I made sure the power button was still on for the controller and it was so I cycled it off then back on and still no red power light or red digital readout on my controller screen. I checked the breakers and nothing was thrown and I did not cycle the breakers off and on just looked at their positions.
For my set up the breakers run as such:
Main breaker panel for the top 2 floors of the house with a subpages breaker leading to a sub panel
Sub panel runs the studio level including the kiln.
I checked the kiln breaker here as well and it was not thrown either
From the sub panel I have a specially professionally wired emergency on off throw lever type switch which the kiln power runs through. I had this installed for the kiln so I can cut power to it when not in use as well as having an emergency power shut off seperated from the sub panel in case something should go wrong and I need to immediately cut power to the kiln.
From this throw off switch, the power goes to the dedicated outlet where the kiln is plugged in.
The power cord runs from there to the kiln body itself

While I was standing at the breaker panel checking the breakers I heard a sound behind me (sort of like the sound you here when you start up your kiln and the switches click on but not quite and more of a buzz sound to it than the normal sharp click) I walked back to the front of the kiln and the red power light and digital panel were both on and working. There were no more sounds so it was not actually running through a cycle even though I had heard a sound a moment before. Only the power to the controller came on the kiln did not start firing again.

The digital read out says the firing cycle completed successfully. I ran through the review steps and there are no error messages showing. I read in my kiln manual all the error situations listed and none of them fit. The controller says everything fired properly but if it did why was the controller not on nor did it come on right away when I cycled the switch? How do I figure out what the issue is?

Finally the kiln is still cooling so I have no idea if it actually fired normally or not, even if the controller says it did. I won't know that until later this evening when I open and look at the pieces as well as pulling the cone I have in there to see if it's bent properly.

Suggestions where to start, what to check, etc???


Magic Box Damp Box What A Type Of Plaster?

11 June 2015 - 10:42 PM

I have searched here and watched the Tim See video and haven't found which type of plaster to use. He just says plaster but not what type in his video. Would Plaster of Paris work for the magic box or do I need to use pottery plaster?


Epic Failure - Glaze Looks Boiled Where It Meets Another Glaze

27 May 2015 - 05:03 PM

I had my first WHOLE kiln load fail today. This has never happened to me before. I used a new glaze combination that I had tested and it worked fine on the test pieces but not today.
It is Amaco's HF Turquoise cone 6 and Coyotes cone 6 Sunset Pink.

The things to figure out...

Is the turquiose overfired? I am leaning towards overfired at this point but would like some input from you all. If overfired can I grind off the boiled rows and reglaze and refire at a lower cone? I realize this might affect the other glaze and all that but I am looking at it from a test to see what happens if I try it.

Are the turquoise and pink incompatible? If so why did it not do this on the test pieces?

Why does it look like its too thin ... That's 3 coats of glaze on there same as I did on the test pieces and yet it's practically vanished in spots.

Oh and I don't like failure and am not used to it so this is going to drive me crazy until I figure it out.


Shimpo Slabroller Chain Slipping And Binding

22 May 2015 - 06:48 PM

I am hoping one of you with a Shimpo can give some guidance. The studio has a Shimpo Slabroller and about a week ago someone had an issue with it (unknown what it was) and decided to try and fix said issue by dismantling the Slabroller.

This evening the studio director and I tried to find all the pieces and reassemble the machine.
Someone had removed a link in the chain, I guess thinking the chain was too loose and causing the jamming. With the link removed though it was nearly impossible to turn the height adjustment wheel and you could hear it straining the mechanism. We found the removed link and added it back in. The height adjustment wheels will now turn and the rollers go up and down but the chain on the wheel side of the unit keeps binding on the sprocket. We could not see if there was anyway to adjust this sprocket just enough to increase the tension a touch to keep it from binding. If I put my finger on it and add just a bit of tension by pulling it towards me it didn't skip and bind at all. Does anyone know if there is an adjustment somewhere?

Do the Shimpo Chains wear out and need to be replaced?

There is also a lot of play in the threaded shaft on that side of the roller much more than the other side. We don't know what was done when it was dismantled, is it possible this threaded shaft was bent somehow?
For the life of us we can't get that wheel/knob back on the shaft either, both wheel/knobs will easily slip onto the other side but neither one will slip all the way onto this shaft.

The director called around for a repair person to come out and they want almost $200 just to drive out here then more $ for time to fix, more $ for any parts and more $ if they have to order something and come back. He called and emailed Shimpo earlier in the week but no one has contacted him in return to answer these questions.

So I am asking you all in hopes someone might have a suggestion on how to get the height adjustment chain to feed smoothly and also how to get the wheel/knob back onto the shaft.

Thank you so much for your help.


Accidentally Left My Plugs Out... My Reds Look Fabulous

15 May 2015 - 09:31 PM

Last time I fired a load of glazed stuff I forgot until the last hour of the program to put my plugs in. I was worried I would have ruined everything but instead anything that had red on it came out really bright and beautiful.

WHY? Was it the additional oxygen? the slightly slower firing cycle as the kiln had to to work harder to get to temp? Just dumb luck?

To duplicate this again do I have to leave the plugs out until the last hour again or is there a certain period of time that works the magic with the Reds?