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Member Since 28 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 05:41 PM

#76785 Shortage Because Of The Weather Up North

Posted by bciskepottery on 04 March 2015 - 07:16 PM

This sounds like a wonderful opportunity for an industrious person with a truck and time on his/her hands . . . selling boxes of porcelain, stoneware, and e-ware at your neighborhood corner: Need a fix? I've got just what you're lookin' for.

#76622 Decorating Slip

Posted by bciskepottery on 02 March 2015 - 07:45 PM

Adding oxides or stains to dry clay body and adding water makes a good slip. I also sieve my slips to make sure the oxides/stains are thoroughly mixed. For stains, I usually use a ratio of 10% stain to powdered clay body. For oxides, it will depend on the oxide -- especially the cobalts which are very strong and you only need a small amount.

You'll find a lot of good information at Vince Pitelka's website: http://iweb.tntech.e...ndouts-info.htm

#76527 Please Help, I Don't Know Whats Best To Buy!

Posted by bciskepottery on 01 March 2015 - 06:36 PM

Before buying from a third party, check with the kiln manufacturer or distributor to see if the kiln will work with non-EFCO controllers.

From their website, it looks like either the regulator or controller are your options. The controller would allow you to program a temperature climb of 100 degrees per hour; the regulator would not unless you also had a thermocouple that read the temperature. Controlling the rate of temperature increase makes more sense than controlling the cooling period.

#76520 Please Help, I Don't Know Whats Best To Buy!

Posted by bciskepottery on 01 March 2015 - 04:33 PM

Are you sure you need a nine hour controlled cool? Is that specific to the recipe for faience you are using? Out of curiosity, I checked to see if others had info on cooling and found no references to firing cycles. But I did find a couple links you might find interesting:



#76336 Brent Wheel Chirpping

Posted by bciskepottery on 27 February 2015 - 04:12 PM

Also FIRST!!!!!


OMG!  I've got a posting to moderate . . .  woot, woot.  Congrats on being first!

#76334 Rehydrating Old Glazes

Posted by bciskepottery on 27 February 2015 - 03:56 PM

Think about letting the glazes dry out completely, then crumble (wearing an appropriately rated mask to protect yourself), then add water.  The smaller and dryer the pieces, the easier they will rehydrate.  Finally, sieve before using. 

#76315 Can Dry Peices Be Made Wet Again?

Posted by bciskepottery on 27 February 2015 - 12:44 PM

Consider making a damp box or magic box for storing your work:  https://www.youtube....h?v=_y_f9mV381k


One of these will keep your work damp during the days you are not able to work.  May also be possible to rehydrate a dry item.

#75804 Setting A Kiln To Start Firing At Night? - Finishing When I Am Awake? - Nest...

Posted by bciskepottery on 19 February 2015 - 11:01 PM

I generally fire overnight.  I start and monitor the kiln until bedtime.  I time the firings so they have about two hours to completion when I wake up so I can be there to make sure things turn off.  I crack the garage door a bit to allow warm air to escape -- especially in summer time.  From time to  time I've thought about a baby monitor so I could check temperature etc. from computer, but have not gotten around to doing so.  Just finished 100th firing. 

#75716 Photography Backgrounds

Posted by bciskepottery on 18 February 2015 - 09:10 PM

If you can afford just the background paper . . . http://www.amazon.co...N0Z85QQYYKFKG00 . . . you can get reasonably good pictures outside using natural light.  Or, in a pinch, take an old white window shade and apply an even coat of flat light grey spray paint, let it dry, and use that until you can afford a higher cost set up. 


You might also ask any professional photographers to do the photos . . . perhaps in exchange for a mug or plate.  Bartering still works. 

#75547 How Is Your Local Pottery Community For Social And Professional Interaction?

Posted by bciskepottery on 16 February 2015 - 09:41 AM

Time to follow mom's advice:  If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all.

#75435 Picasso Ceramics Exhibition At Kennedy Center, Washington, Dc (Free)

Posted by bciskepottery on 13 February 2015 - 05:56 PM


Picasso Ceramist and the Mediterranean

Mar. 4-22 | Atrium and Atrium Foyers

Picasso Ceramist and the Mediterranean is a carefully curated selection of more than 140 of Pablo Picasso's ceramic pieces that reveal how the prolific artist reshaped the very notions of how clay could be used. Reflecting the artist's strong attraction to Mediterranean colors, shapes, and mythological creatures, the exhibition is the first of its kind to be shown in the United States. During Picasso's long career, he explored many forms of visual art: painting, sculpture, lithography, etching, collage, stage and costume design, poetry, and ceramics. He initially experimented with clay in 1900, but it was during the years after World War II that he developed an intense interest in the medium. At the time, he lived in southern France, where clay deposits had been exploited since pre-Roman times. During his lifetime, he produced some 4,500 plates, vessels, and other ceramic creations.

This exhibition was originally conceived for "Marseille-Provence 2013," the yearlong celebration of Marseille's reign as Cultural Capital of Europe and presented in Aubagne. In 2014, the exhibition traveled to the National Museum of Ceramics in Sèvres, near Paris, where it was the most successful show in the museum's history. It is curated by Joséphine Matamoros and Bruno Gaudichon, and is made possible by the generous participation of private collectors.

#74869 Very Pale Cream Glaze Tests

Posted by bciskepottery on 05 February 2015 - 09:17 AM

Attached File  antique_white.JPG   129.74KB   3 downloads

So, this is the third time I've typed and uploaded this post . . . and the last time I'll try.

Here is a glaze called Antique White -- Cone 6, oxidation. The bowl is a dark brown stoneware (Standard 266).

Antique White
Nepheline Syenite, 41.7%
Silica, 16.7%
Gerstley Borate, 25%
EPK Kaolin, 8.3%
Whiting, 8.3%
Total, 100%

Bentonite, 2.2%
Tin Oxide, 8.3%
Red Iron Oxide, 0.9%

The dash of RIO takes the harshness off the white of the Tin Oxide. Those two may work with your base glaze.

#74866 Kiln Opening Temp

Posted by bciskepottery on 05 February 2015 - 08:15 AM

For glaze loads, I like to wait until the kiln is around 100F.  The thermocouple readings are of the air temperature in the kiln; your wares and shelves are likely hotter than that reading.  My thermocouple have a protective sheath; so, they have an adjustment in the controller to compensate for that as they are not reading the actual inside temperature and the offset helps prevent over-firing.  And, for the most part, I'm over the "Christmas" rush of every kiln firing  -- mostly because my kiln is electric and I've settled on a smaller palette of glazes that are consistent in firing.  Letting the kiln cool a bit longer is no big deal. 


If you induce pinging by opening the kiln when it was too hot and allowing a rush of cold air . . . that does not mean the glaze would have pinged if it had been allowed to cool further before opening.  Some glazes will ping regardless.  Some pinging can be from operator error. 

#74774 Glaze Fit Issue On Terracotta Slip

Posted by bciskepottery on 03 February 2015 - 09:51 PM

The slip is not vitrified and the glazes, while delaying seepage, do not compensate for the lack of vitrification. Standard shows an absorbency rate of 5% for the terra cotta slip. That is still rather porous at cone 04. For water-tight, you need to get to 2% or less for absorbency -- preferably in the 1% range -- that is my comfort level for vases and other forms holding water for long periods.

Are you just using a liner glaze? or glazing both interior/exterior? You could try bisque firing at higher temperature -- maybe consult with Standard to see how far you could push the slip body. Some folks working in terra cotta apply terra sig to the bottoms of pots to help seal the clay body; again, that can delay seepage but it will not compensate for an unvitrified clay body.

#74737 Amaco Chalks?

Posted by bciskepottery on 03 February 2015 - 07:52 AM

You can make your own by adding mason stains in the color of your choice to dry white porcelain clay body, add water, wedge to blend the colors, and roll into a pencil/crayon.  Let them dry and use them as a stick of chalk.