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Member Since 28 Jun 2010
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#93702 Peeling Glaze

Posted by bciskepottery on 04 October 2015 - 08:34 AM

You mention using a different kiln . . . is the firing schedule for the kiln the same as your old one? Or is it firing faster or slower? For your previous firing, did you use the borrowed kiln or your own?

Is any of the glaze spitting onto the kiln shelves?

Was the glaze dry when you loaded the kiln or still damp?

Typically, crawling occurs when the glaze is applied too thick. You can also get a result like this if the firing is too fast.

#93453 Good Rubber Stamps

Posted by bciskepottery on 29 September 2015 - 07:10 PM

The t-shirt for electric kiln owners would be the letters "CPLT" in big red digital letters on a black t-shirt.



#93448 Qotw: Do You Have A Plan B?

Posted by bciskepottery on 29 September 2015 - 05:18 PM

Attached File  BULLPEN.jpg   124.13KB   0 downloads


Always have a plan B. 

#93383 Good Rubber Stamps

Posted by bciskepottery on 28 September 2015 - 08:58 PM

The key to surviving as a potter -- come up with a tool line, car stickers, or t-shirts to sell to your pottery friends. 

#93382 Maiden Bisque Witness Cone 05 06 07 Melted To Washed Shelf

Posted by bciskepottery on 28 September 2015 - 08:56 PM

I also did the tongue thing and it really did not stick. Will I know right away that the glaze is not going to work or will I not know until I fire the pots and have a mess.

Try applying some glaze. If the pot absorbs the water and the glaze sticks, you'll be fine. If the pot does not absorb the water, then try warming the pot in the oven/microwave and then brushing the glaze on; the warm pot will cause the water in the glaze to evaporate and leave the glaze materials behind. The key is warming (not heating). In a normal bisque, the pot is porous enough to absorb the water from the glaze. If your pot will not absorb the water, warming is an option.

#93306 Maiden Bisque Witness Cone 05 06 07 Melted To Washed Shelf

Posted by bciskepottery on 27 September 2015 - 09:07 PM

Question 1- how do I remove the cones from the shelf?
Question 2 - top layer of pottery seemed intact - will bottom layer be intact, too? Or does bottom run hotter and desaster may loom?
Question 3 - If all is intact will I have glazing issues? If so, what can I expect?
Question 4 - I have the babysitter parts. I wonder if the previous owner ran it like that. The ceramic piece that holds the two pins the cone bar sits on can be placed back in hole line up break so snug. Can I run it like that?

1. You will need to grind the cones off the shelf using an angle grinder or other tool (but a grinder will do it faster and more easily). After you have removed the cones, you will need to reapply kiln wash to the area.
2. Just remember, it is only clay. And, you don't have disasters -- just learning experiences. Some kilns fire hotter at the bottom; some fire hotter at top. If something is broken, it is more likely due to a structural issue -- Phoenix can be fired up to Cone 10 and it is doubtful your kiln reached that temperature.
3. Glazing may be impacted by the apparent over-firing of the bisque. To what degree, it is hard to tell. Highwater's Phoenix is a cone 7 to 10 clay body. So, unless you reached near cone 10 to vitrify the clay body (doubtful from the info you provided), it will be absorbent for glazing. Use one piece as a test, do your normal dip in the glaze and, after the glaze has dried, scratch through it to see how thick of an application you got. If the glaze is too thin, you'll need to do a longer dip.
4. You will want to get the kiln sitter fixed and installed . . . it will make your firing life much easier.

#93224 Display Question

Posted by bciskepottery on 25 September 2015 - 12:14 PM

People tend to buy mugs as a gift -- for someone else or themselves.  So, they look for something eye catching or different.  I'd go more towards your sgraffito work with maybe a few regulars for contrast.  With unique work, or work with a distinctive image like your bear or orca, folks may ask if everything is out or if you have more in stock.  So, at least put out several of each type you have . . . it offers the opportunity for multiple sales and saves you time of having to check/pull out back stock.  With that small of a space (4x6) you won't have much room for back stock.  If you were offering larger and more high cost items, I'd suggest fewer/less clutter.

#93207 Ian Currie Test Tiles Forums?

Posted by bciskepottery on 25 September 2015 - 07:43 AM

My Ceramics monthly for October seems to have arrived early. In the back they have an article on Ian Currie and his grids so maybe more people will be finding this topic.


Not as long as we continue to see the proliferation of commercially prepared glazes that imitate the look of shinos, celadons, etc. without the work of this type of learning/experimentation. 

#92777 Covering For Hardwood Floor - Home Studio?

Posted by bciskepottery on 17 September 2015 - 03:25 PM

Attached File  assistant.JPG   121.82KB   2 downloadsCats are always allowed in the studio . . .

#92393 Inexpensive Label Source

Posted by bciskepottery on 10 September 2015 - 10:17 PM

I print my bag labels using Avery labels -- they have a round kraft label that looks nice on my kraft bags.  I prep my bags before a show . . . labels attached, business card and listing of upcoming shows inserted into the bag.  Doing that ahead of the show saves time when you are waiting on a customer and processing a sale . . . all I need to do is wrap the purchase in tissue paper.  Customers like not having to wait while you find the business card to add to the bag and it makes you look more professional and business-like. 

#92283 Qotw: Are "kiln Gods" Superstition?

Posted by bciskepottery on 08 September 2015 - 09:47 PM

http://community.cer...?hl=+kiln +gods

http://community.cer...-so/?hl=+kiln %

some previous threads

#92195 Artsy Babble Translation Please

Posted by bciskepottery on 08 September 2015 - 05:02 AM


#91896 Liability Shift On Cc Coming Oct 1, 2015

Posted by bciskepottery on 02 September 2015 - 08:06 PM

U.S. credit cards and debit cards have poor security records -- mostly due to the issuing banks.  That is why hackers go after U.S. credit card and debit card accounts and not those in Europe and other places where the cards use better security -- like pins and encrypted chips.  Yes, pins can be defeated, but most issuers lock out a card long before a hacker has run all the possible number combinations.  For years, U.S. banks have resisted upgrading as the cost to upgrading the points of sale terminals and readers was more than the cost of writing off the losses -- they really don't care about the identify theft aspect of the holder, they only care about their business bottom line.  The response we are seeing now is more likely banks reacting to folks like Apple who are introducing new payment technologies that threaten their business. 

#91895 Looking For A Strong Ceramics Community (Which Cities/states) Opinions?

Posted by bciskepottery on 02 September 2015 - 07:56 PM

Since starting to make pottery, I've become much more aware of how many other potters are out in the community -- some more visible than others, but out there just the same. There are concentrations of potters -- Seagrove, Asheville are two that come to mind quickly -- but there are potters everywhere. And, you don't need to be in a concentrated area to learn and make good pottery. A few years ago I vacationed in Asheville and stayed in an apartment above a potter's studio. He was in the process of shifting from pottery to opening a restaurant as he could not make a living on pottery -- he was good, but his work was like many others and the competition was keen. So, there are advantages and disadvantages to moving to an area saturated with potters.

You have two routes -- pursing a degree in ceramics at a university or college or learning through the school of hard knocks. There are lots of good programs out there . . . Alfred, Utah State, Montana, Ohio, U Florida and others -- mostly determined by who is on the faculty at the time. Some studios and craft schools offer residencies and/or internships as assistants to potters who lead workshops. You might try checking those out to build your resume and start your networking -- because it comes down to making those connections. Ceramics Monthly, Pottery Making Illustrated, Clay Times often have classifieds of production potteries looking for apprentices. Find some of the local clay blogs (e.g., NC Clay Club) and ask to post a notice asking for apprentice opportunities. Many will do a bachelor's at one school, a master's at another, then a series of residencies before finding a place to call home. Some production/professional potters are more open to taking in assistants and apprentices; others are not.

And, Tony Clennell has lots of advice on his blog site: http://smokieclennel...ur-teacher.htmlMostly irreverent but down to earth. He has walked the walk and has earned the right to talk the talk.

Good luck on your journey.

#91674 Wipe-Away Black Staining

Posted by bciskepottery on 29 August 2015 - 03:15 PM

Maybe one of these will work . . . https://www.google.c...iw=1600&bih=698I've not tried them, but they might be worth a try. Apply dry black mason stain to the fingerprint dusting brush and then dust the feather area; may take some practice to get the application right and you could always use a paper or flexible plastic outline of the feather to prevent stain from getting on adjacent areas. I think apply to greenware would offer the best luck for success as the dry stain would adhere to the damp surface and you then bisque the stain before applying glaze over it later. Plus, Mason stain has frit in it so it will be less likely to smudge after bisque firing. After bisque, you could also lightly sand any stain that got in areas outside the feather.

Applying fingerprint dust (or mason stain) is an art, a little dust goes a long way.

And, if you try this, be sure to wear an appropriate protective mask.