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bciskepottery

Member Since 28 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 07:09 AM
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#111775 Red Stoneware Clay For An Aged Look?

Posted by bciskepottery on 21 August 2016 - 06:43 PM

From his website --

 

"I also enjoy the process of making forms with coils and over the last 5 or 6 years have been making some medium sized vessels that are inspired largely by African pottery and to a lesser extent Neolithic Chinese pots. Many of these are stained with iron oxide and coated with a clay and wood ash slip."

 

He uses stoneware and fires a gas kiln in reduction.  http://www.rickhintzepottery.com/

 

An iron oxide wash can be made with red iron oxide, either gerstley borate or a ferro frit, and water.  The gerstley borate/frit help the red iron oxide melt so it does not rub off.  Many apply the red iron oxide wash during leather hard stage; others wait until bisque.  Either way can work; it depends on your style and the effect you are trying to achieve. 




#111443 Do You Employ A Kiln Watcher?

Posted by bciskepottery on 16 August 2016 - 05:32 AM

http://community.cer...?hl=+kiln +gods


#111301 Supplies To Buy When Buying A First Wheel?

Posted by bciskepottery on 12 August 2016 - 07:02 PM

Try an experiment . . . go tool-less. Just like the first potters. As you make things, you will either find a work-around or a genuine need for a specialized tool. Wheel, plastic bucket for throwing water, towel, and an old, out of date credit card/hotel card that can be used as a flexible rib. For a rigid rib, an old CD works fine (almost makes you miss the days of AOL). Paleo-pottery. Be a trend setter.


#110972 Marble Technique Aka Agateware

Posted by bciskepottery on 04 August 2016 - 06:39 PM

First, you are doing great. Being a self-taught potter is remarkable; don't think otherwise.

You can trim on a banding wheel. You can also use a hand wood plane to hand trim your forms - more of a facet look but the facets could be softened/rounded with a rib. You could try removing/scraping the top layer with your flexible metal ribbon of death (aka, metal rib) while still a slab and then build your form (try a soft leatherhard, then drop the slab/wareboard on the floor to awaken the clay to make it more flexible for manipulation.

Make your slab twice the thickness it needs to be, then use wood slats as guides and your cut-off wire to slice the slab in half; the inside slabs should be nice and clear.


#110790 New To Wood Firing

Posted by bciskepottery on 31 July 2016 - 05:23 AM

I've wood fired at a community kiln with shifts.  I prefer the later shifts to finishing because you learn more even though they are more labor intensive (and generally start around midnight).  During the latter stages of the firing you learn more about reading cones, the importance of even stoking, etc.  Because  the community kiln fired wood from old pallets, we also had to introduce ash by adding pine bark nuggets along with the wood at the right time.  We also added a soda/salt solution near the very end to give the wares an extra kick. 

 

You also learn a lot during loading . . . he should be able to tell you hot spots, cold spots, proper spacing, etc.




#110769 New To Wood Firing

Posted by bciskepottery on 30 July 2016 - 02:03 PM

For a first wood fire, I'd suggest doing some wares with glaze on exterior and some with no glaze.  In a wood fire, you can seldom go wrong with a shino.  Kakis are a good liner glaze, as is a temoku.    On a couple of the no glaze, add a few swooshes of a flashing slip (see what the person has available to use or mix your own).  Make one ware to put on the bag wall -- mugs and yunomis are good.  Don't be afraid to experiment -- fire a ware or two on its side using seashells as support.  Have some smooth surface and textured wares.  Let the wood ash do its thing.  If you are firing a set, put them on the same shelf if you want them to be similar. 

 

Check the website of your clay manufacturer to see if they show examples of the clay fired in a wood kiln . . . ask what clay bodies work well in the kiln. 




#110743 My Kiln Build

Posted by bciskepottery on 29 July 2016 - 09:30 PM

Jed . . . put the concrete blocks on their side so air can flow through them under the kiln floor.


#110426 Competive Juried Shows

Posted by bciskepottery on 21 July 2016 - 06:03 PM

Can be a quick way to burn through a lot of money on entry fees. If your work leans toward the "art" end of the spectrum, juried shows are a way to gain exposure and, as Marcia noted, build your resume. Before entering, check the bios/work of the jury/juror . . . and the history/background of the event. Maybe check with prior year entrants. Then make an informed decision on whether or not your work would stand out enough to make the cut. Personally, I avoid them . . . it is not what I'm looking for in my work.


#109677 Ceramics Basics - Help!

Posted by bciskepottery on 01 July 2016 - 07:11 PM

Check around for another potter or a community studio and ask if you can watch/help load and fire a kiln with one of their staff.  Reading is great, watching videos is great . . . but actually helping someone is the best way to learn all the little nuances they omit from the books and videos.  And, you get to learn from others' mistakes.  Every kiln you load/unload is the equivalent of a Ph.D. in firing. 




#109596 Qotw: Are We Potters Crazy?

Posted by bciskepottery on 29 June 2016 - 05:32 AM

Potters crazy?  Not by a longshot.

 

Everyone else.  Absolutely.




#109445 My Summer Adventure

Posted by bciskepottery on 26 June 2016 - 05:32 PM

Attached File  IMG_1196.JPG   136.75KB   3 downloadsAttached File  IMG_1197.JPG   174.98KB   1 downloadsMy adventure for the summer is helping a fellow potter rebuild her salt kiln.  Today was destruction day -- taking down the old kiln.  Our merry band of four plan to start constructing the new kiln in mid-July.  Over the past two years, I've been helping on kiln maintenance (in return for firings) and trying to shake out some design bugs from the previous rebuild.  The old kiln only had about 20 firing on it, but was showing structural issues, brick wear and some design problems that, try as we might (and with some great advice and suggestions from Mark C. and Neil E., just could not overcome.  Great learning experience - I've never done kiln construction before.  In addition to our merry band, we are getting advice and consultations from Will Baker in NC -- a master kiln builder.  The fun has begun.

Attached Files




#109229 How To Get This Glaze Look?

Posted by bciskepottery on 22 June 2016 - 09:31 PM

 

attachicon.gif266_vase.JPG

 

Vase in foreground is Standard 266 clay (dark brown) with white Bringle slip brushed on and wiped off of from high spots.  Soda ash wash applied before firing.  Feldspar inclusions.  Cone 6, oxidation.  Rear vase is Laguna Dark Brown clay, wood fired, cone 10, reduction. 

 

Those are beautiful vases. I love the dark look on the top part of the wood fired one. Brilliant.

 

It sat behind the stack and on the floor between the two chambers; the top part got the flame, the bottom part did not as the flames exited the flue between the wood and soda chambers at that height.  All a matter of placement. 




#108551 How To Test Clay

Posted by bciskepottery on 10 June 2016 - 07:14 PM

Attached File  laguna.JPG   63.81KB   0 downloads

 

Laguna offers a sample pack of clays (about 4 or 5 lbs per sample) -- your local store will have to special order them, but it is way to try a lot of different clay bodies without going for a full 25 lb. bag. 

 




#108159 Small Pieces For The Kiln To Fill Space

Posted by bciskepottery on 04 June 2016 - 08:43 PM

Attached File  dark.JPG   118.9KB   3 downloadsAttached File  rocks_flowers.JPG   107.38KB   3 downloadsAttached File  candles.jpg   117.68KB   6 downloads


#108082 Mark C 5000Th Post

Posted by bciskepottery on 03 June 2016 - 01:38 PM

Mark . . . remember, its quality over quantity. 

 

Maybe a new community challenge . . . first one to 10,000 posts (remember, think big).  Who's in?