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Member Since 28 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 05:19 AM

#114919 Water Seeping Through

Posted by bciskepottery on 19 October 2016 - 06:48 PM

I'd find a new clay manufacturer and clay body. A properly vitrified clay fired to maturity should be water tight without glaze. Only an underfired/non-vitrified clay body weeps. Sounds to me as if they do not know their product or are unwilling to admit their product is faulty. Find a cone 6 clay body with less than 2% absorbency. Then you will not have to rely on glaze to make the vase water tight. A clay manufacturer stating that glaze is needed to seal the clay body is just plain out to lunch.

I make and sell ikebana vases; my cone 6 vases are made using cone 6 clays (Little Loafers and Red Rock from Highwater; occasionally 266 from Standard) and fired to cone 6 with a 10 minute hold. I chose those because they have low absorbency at Cone 6. My cone 10 vases are made using cone 10 clays (Laguna's Dark Brown, Standard's Troy wood fire stoneware or porcelain, or Highwater's Phoenix) -- clay bodies with absorbency of 1% or less at cone 10. I use a liner glaze -- sometimes clear, sometimes another color glaze. Most of mine are only glazed on the inside. I also randomly pull vases and test them with water. I've had vases sit on my table with water/flowers for two or more weeks with no weeping.

#114779 Pestal And Mortar Machine

Posted by bciskepottery on 16 October 2016 - 06:22 PM


#114715 Concerns About Wood/anagama Kiln Smoke Vs Neighbors...

Posted by bciskepottery on 14 October 2016 - 06:18 PM



#114399 Starting An Indiegogo Campaign...and Not Sucking At It

Posted by bciskepottery on 07 October 2016 - 08:09 AM

You might want to drive up I-95 and talk to the folks at Baltimore Clayworks -- a very successful (as you likely know) non-profit.  They are likely to be more than willing to share lessons learned.  Also, the Art League in Alexandria does successful fund-raising. 


I am not sure you are ready to start your campaign . . . seems to be drive more by timing than having a well-thought out plan.  Get your plan right, then execute.  As noted, your social media presence is not large and, most likely, only encompasses those involved in pottery/ceramics.  That is not a strong/deep pocket base from which to raise money.  And most potters social media friends tend to be . . . other potters, so forwarding to their friends may not help a lot.  A crowd-sourced fundraiser is likely appropriate/good for single need items, e.g., a kiln, but they are not good sources for sustaining recurring costs, such as low/no tuition programs for the underserved, operating a gallery.  For those, you need a committed donor base that will give money annually, not one time.  Otherwise, your efforts will be a flash in the pan. 


Your next hire should be someone with successful experience in fund-raising/donor development for non-profits.  No clay experience needed, just good non-profit business and fund-raising acumen.

#114290 Leaf Impressions - Inspiration

Posted by bciskepottery on 04 October 2016 - 07:29 PM

Attached File  Ginko.jpg   86.4KB   10 downloadsAttached File  Hosta.jpg   84.4KB   5 downloadsAttached File  Sunflower.jpg   89.04KB   5 downloads


Just a plain old celadon glaze seems to work fine for me. 



#114199 Equipment/tool Shaming/bullying

Posted by bciskepottery on 02 October 2016 - 06:29 PM

Seems we are veering off topic again.   


Private email and personal messaging applications might be more appropriate applications for some communications.  Let's leave the double-entendres and double-dares off  the forum. 

#114073 Equipment/tool Shaming/bullying

Posted by bciskepottery on 30 September 2016 - 03:59 PM

SHould the clay be GMO or non-GMO?  :unsure: Nobody at any of the suppliers I have called will give me a straight answer.  :P

Not sure it matters . . . whether GMO or non-GMO it all organics should burn out during bisque.

#114066 Supplies To Buy When Buying A First Wheel?

Posted by bciskepottery on 30 September 2016 - 03:28 PM

Potters --

As Forum Moderators, we are extremely hesitant to hide or remove postings. We want the Forum to be an open market for all things pottery and ceramics. We also realize comments will stray off topic on occasion -- in fact, we have done so ourselves. Some recent posts to this thread have greatly strayed off topic and, whether intentional or not, could be construed as offensive or insensitive to members. As a group, we have decided to exercise our editorial judgement to remove those posts. We strongly believe all members should be able to read threads without feeling uncomfortable or offended by content. The best way to do that is to keep on topic and not stray too far off the discussion path.

Bruce -- On behalf of all the Forum moderators

#113544 What Type Addhessive To Use For Cork And Ceramic Stoppers?

Posted by bciskepottery on 21 September 2016 - 04:47 PM


I've used this company; quick service, good quality.

#113506 Grinding Excess Glaze Drips

Posted by bciskepottery on 20 September 2016 - 08:41 PM

I use a dremel with grinding disks for small glaze drips; for larger drips, I use a bench grinder (usually for wood kiln fire wares). You don't need an expensive grinder.

The best/easiest glaze drips to grind are the ones that don't happen. Try to figure out how to reduce the glaze drips from happening by modifying your glaze or adding glaze drip lines to your wares to prevent running.

#113243 New Teacher ..help!

Posted by bciskepottery on 15 September 2016 - 09:12 PM

Meeting once per week is a challenge as more challenging/complex projects can't be done in a single period. Choose two or three one class projects, knowing you will need class periods for glazing, etc. Don't think you'll need more than 25 lbs. per student per 8-week class; teach them how to save and recycle scraps.

One clay is best -- otherwise you need duplicate sets of tools, etc; also makes clean up easier. Plus, the red will eventually get into the white clay either on purpose, accident, or other intent.

Most schools fire low-fire. Amaco has a teacher's palette of low fire glazes that work well; you can even mix colors to add to the selection.

Have your projects, but also allow students to play . . . most will tend to make some type of sculpture from scraps, etc.

If a student knows how to throw on the wheel, let him/her. But you are not going to have enough time to teach wheel and you don't have enough wheels for a class to use. I would stick with handbuilding. Here is a good project book to consider -- https://www.amazon.c...g/dp/1438001991

#113236 New Teacher ..help!

Posted by bciskepottery on 15 September 2016 - 07:25 PM

Here might be a good place to start . . . just adapt the projects for older students.


#113235 Qotw:how Do They Put Up With You?

Posted by bciskepottery on 15 September 2016 - 07:21 PM

My wife knows she can't complain; she was the one who started me on this road and made me sign up for the class.

#112898 Outdoor Electric Kiln

Posted by bciskepottery on 11 September 2016 - 04:28 PM

When you buy your kiln, make sure you either get a stand or get some concrete blocks to make a raised floor to set it on; you don't want your kiln directly on the ground or patio. Think about how your electrical connection will pass through the "shed". Maybe think of a modular "shed" -- four walls hinged together and a top that you take down when loading/firing; then replacing after the kiln has cooled.

#112865 Low Fire Shino - Is It Food Safe?

Posted by bciskepottery on 10 September 2016 - 06:09 PM

The only way to get a definitive answer is to send a piece to a testing laboratory and test for leaching.