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bciskepottery

Member Since 28 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 05:35 AM
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#113544 What Type Addhessive To Use For Cork And Ceramic Stoppers?

Posted by bciskepottery on 21 September 2016 - 04:47 PM

http://www.widgetco.com/corks

I've used this company; quick service, good quality.


#113506 Grinding Excess Glaze Drips

Posted by bciskepottery on 20 September 2016 - 08:41 PM

I use a dremel with grinding disks for small glaze drips; for larger drips, I use a bench grinder (usually for wood kiln fire wares). You don't need an expensive grinder.

The best/easiest glaze drips to grind are the ones that don't happen. Try to figure out how to reduce the glaze drips from happening by modifying your glaze or adding glaze drip lines to your wares to prevent running.


#113243 New Teacher ..help!

Posted by bciskepottery on 15 September 2016 - 09:12 PM

Meeting once per week is a challenge as more challenging/complex projects can't be done in a single period. Choose two or three one class projects, knowing you will need class periods for glazing, etc. Don't think you'll need more than 25 lbs. per student per 8-week class; teach them how to save and recycle scraps.

One clay is best -- otherwise you need duplicate sets of tools, etc; also makes clean up easier. Plus, the red will eventually get into the white clay either on purpose, accident, or other intent.

Most schools fire low-fire. Amaco has a teacher's palette of low fire glazes that work well; you can even mix colors to add to the selection.

Have your projects, but also allow students to play . . . most will tend to make some type of sculpture from scraps, etc.

If a student knows how to throw on the wheel, let him/her. But you are not going to have enough time to teach wheel and you don't have enough wheels for a class to use. I would stick with handbuilding. Here is a good project book to consider -- https://www.amazon.c...g/dp/1438001991


#113236 New Teacher ..help!

Posted by bciskepottery on 15 September 2016 - 07:25 PM

Here might be a good place to start . . . just adapt the projects for older students.

http://www.johnpost.us/


#113235 Qotw:how Do They Put Up With You?

Posted by bciskepottery on 15 September 2016 - 07:21 PM

My wife knows she can't complain; she was the one who started me on this road and made me sign up for the class.


#112898 Outdoor Electric Kiln

Posted by bciskepottery on 11 September 2016 - 04:28 PM

When you buy your kiln, make sure you either get a stand or get some concrete blocks to make a raised floor to set it on; you don't want your kiln directly on the ground or patio. Think about how your electrical connection will pass through the "shed". Maybe think of a modular "shed" -- four walls hinged together and a top that you take down when loading/firing; then replacing after the kiln has cooled.


#112865 Low Fire Shino - Is It Food Safe?

Posted by bciskepottery on 10 September 2016 - 06:09 PM

The only way to get a definitive answer is to send a piece to a testing laboratory and test for leaching.


#112802 Black Flecks On Kiln Shelves

Posted by bciskepottery on 08 September 2016 - 06:33 PM

Any chance you are using glazes with cobalt as an ingredient? Some cobalt glazes can spit. I believe it can also happen in glazes with high concentrations of borax/colemanite. Just be careful what other wares you put next to spitting glazes so you don't end up with dark flecks on your white teapot.

Chances are the flecks on the shelf do not need to be ground off until they affect an item in firing or leave a mark on a foot-ring. Avoid excessive layers of kiln wash. I have little flecks on my shelves and they do not seem to be a problem.


#112607 Tried To Refire... Total Failure!

Posted by bciskepottery on 05 September 2016 - 12:56 PM

Then it is under-fired and did not melt. You should be able to re-fire, hopefully getting up to the proper temperature will fix the problem.


#112548 Can Mason Stains Be "mixed" Together? Eg Red + Blue = Purple?

Posted by bciskepottery on 04 September 2016 - 09:47 AM

http://www.masoncolo...m/inventory.asp

Mason has a page that shows how to mix current stains to make discontinued stains.


#112540 Questions About Manganese In Clay, Slips, Etc

Posted by bciskepottery on 04 September 2016 - 08:28 AM

Go to the main forum page and do a search on manganese . . . there are a number of threads that have discussed the use of manganese, safety concerns, proper handling, etc. 




#112148 Slip Transfer Help For Leather Hard Work

Posted by bciskepottery on 28 August 2016 - 03:05 PM

You need to keep the moisture in the paper and slip; consider making a damp box to store your pre-made transfers.




#112147 Test Tiles Vs Test Pots For Glaze Combination Tests

Posted by bciskepottery on 28 August 2016 - 02:54 PM

Both. Test tiles first to check color, finish (matte, satin, glossy), whether the glaze runs, how it does on texture vs. non-texture. Then a test bowl to see how it works in real life but on small scale (gravity, color break on rim, etc).


#112111 New To Ceramics- Trying To Buy Used Kiln

Posted by bciskepottery on 27 August 2016 - 04:50 PM

Here is a recent thread on buying supplies --

http://community.cer...-a-first-wheel/

On the kiln, LT-3K may be the model of the kiln sitter, not the kiln. Dawson makes a LT-3K kiln sitter. The kiln should have a face plate that shows manufacturer, model number, electrical info on amps/volts, serial number, and date it was manufactured. There are a lot of considerations besides price -- they cover the condition of the used kiln and whether that kiln can work in your house (right wiring, location, etc.). We can offer better advice on the kiln if you could post a couple of pictures -- exterior, control box, interior.

Here is a recent thread on buying a used kiln --

http://community.cer...lns#entry105818


#112057 Darted Cups

Posted by bciskepottery on 26 August 2016 - 06:44 PM

Where are you making your darts -- bottom of the cup, top, or middle? Could you add a picture?

When I am making round items (cups, vases) from slabs, I will take my slab, put it on a flat foam cushion, and roll it with a rolling pin to give it a curl. That gives the slab a curled/curved memory to revert to as it dries, rather than a flat memory. The clay in a slab cup tends to be more moist at the seam -- where you add slip, magic water, or spit to join the pieces; the join also tends to be thicker due to the overlap. So, it is important to dry slowly and let the moisture level even out. I prefer a long, tapered join on the seam to a short one.

I use both paper and Styrofoam cups to help keep the rim round while slowly drying. I cut out the bottom of the cup so that the walls give a bit to compensate for clay shrinkage when drying.