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Member Since 28 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:04 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: How Many "hand Builders" Here?

Yesterday, 10:03 PM

Count me in. I also do wheel work and like to combine the two disciplines.

And remember the old adage: Handbuilders score daily (at least that is what the t-shirt from Clay Times says).

In Topic: Which Do You Prefer For Joining Process?

Yesterday, 10:00 PM

For joining, I use slip made from the same clay body. I will mix that slip with either tap water or magic water, sometimes both. I have noticed that sometimes the magic water alone or magic water slip will make clay soft -- I do a lot of hard slab (as opposed to soft slab) work. For a lot of soft slab work, all you might need is water -- the clay is already moist enough to make a good bond.

Min -- just spent some time with Oldlady at the Bluemont Fair this weekend; her booth was across from mine. No need to feel rude using the moniker. And she does have an affinity for the glazes of the hippy potters of the '70s (1970's, that is).

In Topic: Earth And Fire: Exhibition And Symposium Oct. 10-12, 2014

19 September 2014 - 08:40 PM

The exhibit has a nice mix of both function and sculptural works; Hadrian Mendoza selected some very good works for the show. Particularly liked the carved vases by Tan Tech Heng, vessels by Pablo Capati III, and the anagama fired vase by Jon Pettyjohn. And if you like big, then Hadrian's works are right up your alley. If you are in the Northern VA area, this is worth dropping by to see.

In Topic: Soda Ash Wash And Electric Firing

18 September 2014 - 07:41 AM

You can vary the effect by the ratio of soda ash to water (hot). I think Chris C. used 1/4c soda ash to a cup of water; I've been going with less -- more like 1/8c soda ash to a cup of water. Basically, you get a sheen on the bare clay surface. Works for me as I do a lot of oxide washes on bare clay for exteriors and the slight sheen gives it a bit of finished look, vs. just fired clay.

Application will make a difference. You need to be fairly consistent in applying the soda ash wash. Too much/too heavy will make a spot shinier than others. I usually just dip a small sponge in the solution, wring it out, then wipe. I'd rather do a couple of light solution passes than one heavy one.

I apply oxides/stains/underglazes to greenware at leatherhard so it gets bisqued; that reduces bleeding, etc. from the soda ash was applied for the glaze firing. But, you may get some bleeding. Just have to practice and experiment with application process).

I only do a small number of pieces per load; that is not enough soda to really impact elements. Just run a bisque between glaze loads and your burn off any residual stuff from the elements.

In Topic: Dry Glaze

18 September 2014 - 07:33 AM

Maybe this . . . http://www.upenn.edu...book/14713.html

Book is also available from Amazon.