Thanks to everyone for your help on my pinholes in my pottery. I've vacuumed my kiln and rinsed by bisqueware. I have a new load being fired tomorrow, we will see if that makes a difference. I bisque to cone 04, and fire to cone 6. With my 17 min hold, my cone 7 bends halfway down. Its the same batch of glaze that I've been using all along. It used to only pinhole sometimes, now that specific glaze pinholes consistently. Perhaps I should make alot more... so I can dip quickly vs. pour over my pots. Perhaps I will get a thinner application that way. Thanks!!
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MargeMember Since 29 Jan 2013
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28 November 2013 - 10:03 PM
15 July 2013 - 04:11 PM
I am SO thankful for this website and everyone who "sets me straight"! I'm in my studio now, typing with my respirator with a quick question... I'm mixing "Mike's Clear" from a forum awhile ago (thanks to "oldlady") I never thought of NOT sieving for my test tiles. Great time saver. My question is, do I have to let the glaze sit overnight before dipping test tiles? I've read that the glaze has to sit for hours after mixing...
29 March 2013 - 08:54 PM
29 March 2013 - 08:52 PM
How do I make colored slip for use in a slip trailer? I'm working with stoneware to be fired to cone 5. I want to apply it to my greenware while still wet on the wheel. I'd like it not to drip while spiraling down my pot while on the wheel. I assume that I dip in clear (or colored glaze) after it has been bisqued. I would buy flocculant/deflocculant if this makes it any easier for me. Also... is there a simple way to make this slip also a "raised slip" if I want for other decorating purposes? Thanks in advance for any help/words of wisdom!!
I have gone to great lengths to make slip using Robin Hopper's recipe. People in my old studio laughed that I was taking dry ingredients and making slip in this manner. It was, however, great slip and stuck to everything. I think if you google his slip recipe you should be able to find it on-line or at the very least in one of his books.
Now however, what I do is take some of either my reclaimed clay or cut off slices of the clay body I am using, dry it throughly, put it in a bucket with some water and let it slake. You don't want to add too much water but just enough to really cover the dried slices. After a few days of slaking, I then take a hand held mixer or you could use a blender and simply mix it up to the consistency I want. I try to really make sure if I am adding Mason stains that I mix these really well so no spots or speckles come through in the initial bisque firing. This is quick and easy and serves all my purposes. I store the slip and simply use it as required. For example, I will take some out of the storage container, mix it up again well and add my unique colorants bit by bit as needed. Works great for me. I am sure it would work equally well in a slip trailer but you may need to water it down to the right consistency. Not so watery that it runs but not so thick that it clogs the end of your bulb or bottle.
Good luck. I love working with slips.
Thanks to everyone for their great responses!! I'm going to start slip trailing immediately! Do you guys suggest adding mason stains over chemicals like cobalt carbonate or copper carbonate?
25 March 2013 - 04:19 PM