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Stephen

Member Since 28 Jan 2013
Offline Last Active Jan 22 2016 11:35 AM
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Topics I've Started

Source For Wine Glass Tops

30 July 2015 - 03:27 PM

we carry hand thrown wine stems with clear glass tops added. Our supplier, National Artcraft, has discontinued and said their supplier dropped the item. I have looked everywhere and only see the small 5oz sniffer out there. 


Going Price Of Mugs

11 July 2015 - 10:06 PM

In another thread the price of mugs came up and I thought I would get a reading from anyone willing to share their pricing rational. I can remember 20 years ago before my partner got into pottery paying $12-$16 for a mug, The going price seemed to stall at about $20 for a really long time but seems to be on the rise for the last half dozen years.

 

We sell dipped mugs at $22 and mostly high twenties with badges and/or more elaborate decorative work such as carving, slip trailing etc. Hand painted in the low-mid 30s. 


Thickening Glaze By Removing Water From Surface

01 April 2015 - 12:47 PM

I sometimes add too much water when doing the final mixing on a new 10k batch of glaze and realize I need to thicken the glaze after I test fire.

 

I have always let the batch sit for a few days and then use a small cup to pull off the clean water from the surface. This water is almost always very clear. I remove usually more than I need to and then re-mix, adding back a little until I hit the consistency I need. Is this OK?

 

I was recently asked if this removed some of the glaze material and my response was yeah it does take out some trace amounts that didn't settle but as long as the water being removed is pretty clear it is not enough to matter to a 4 gallon batch of glaze. I only do this the first time I mix and don't do this repeatedly to a batch of glaze over time.

Is this a correct statement?

 

Should I be using a flocculent if I added to much water and just need to remove some? I am adding specific gravity reading to each of my glazes for when I remake a batch but this occurs the very first time I am making the batch and I don't yet have an established specific gravity reading.


Gloss Going Matt

17 March 2015 - 11:16 AM

OK I am assuming I screwed up although I still wonder how that could happen as careful as I am. I made the recipe listed below first as a 400 gram test batch that came out perfect with just the right surface, fit and break that we were looking for.

 

The base is transparent and we wanted to take the color down a couple of shades so I made a 10,000 batch and split out 4 small (100 gram equivalent) test batches from that and adjusted the additives a point a shot for two of them and then did a couple with two different mason stains as additives. The goal was to create a small half dozen color palate using this transparent base for a line of hand painted pieces that needs a surface that allows detail to show through but have a color tint instead of just a clear coat on top. 

 

I was expecting issues with possible clouding with the stains or a trend toward opaque. I did not expect the glaze to go from a high gloss to completely matt. One possibility because my scale tops out before the weighs I need for 10k grams I have to break each measurement in half so it is possible, maybe, I put 30% of one and 10% of something else. This is the only possible mistake I can see and since I am so careful It would surprise me if that's the case.

 

Can anyone see something else in the recipe that might cause this or have a suggestion of an adjustment that might get me back to gloss? I did use a new bag of frit 3134 but all the other ingredients were on hand and the ball clay was OM4.

 

 * All test were fired in the same 1cf test kiln with a controller fired ramp to cone 5 with 15 minute hold and controlled cool down to 1200 degress.     

 

Honey Amber ^6 Oxidation Glaze

Dolomite 20
Frit 3134 20
Flint 20
Spodumene 20
Ball Clay 20

 

additives:
Manganese Dioxide 3
Red Iron Oxide 5