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Stephen

Member Since 28 Jan 2013
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 04:33 PM
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Topics I've Started

Thickening Glaze By Removing Water From Surface

01 April 2015 - 12:47 PM

I sometimes add too much water when doing the final mixing on a new 10k batch of glaze and realize I need to thicken the glaze after I test fire.

 

I have always let the batch sit for a few days and then use a small cup to pull off the clean water from the surface. This water is almost always very clear. I remove usually more than I need to and then re-mix, adding back a little until I hit the consistency I need. Is this OK?

 

I was recently asked if this removed some of the glaze material and my response was yeah it does take out some trace amounts that didn't settle but as long as the water being removed is pretty clear it is not enough to matter to a 4 gallon batch of glaze. I only do this the first time I mix and don't do this repeatedly to a batch of glaze over time.

Is this a correct statement?

 

Should I be using a flocculent if I added to much water and just need to remove some? I am adding specific gravity reading to each of my glazes for when I remake a batch but this occurs the very first time I am making the batch and I don't yet have an established specific gravity reading.


Gloss Going Matt

17 March 2015 - 11:16 AM

OK I am assuming I screwed up although I still wonder how that could happen as careful as I am. I made the recipe listed below first as a 400 gram test batch that came out perfect with just the right surface, fit and break that we were looking for.

 

The base is transparent and we wanted to take the color down a couple of shades so I made a 10,000 batch and split out 4 small (100 gram equivalent) test batches from that and adjusted the additives a point a shot for two of them and then did a couple with two different mason stains as additives. The goal was to create a small half dozen color palate using this transparent base for a line of hand painted pieces that needs a surface that allows detail to show through but have a color tint instead of just a clear coat on top. 

 

I was expecting issues with possible clouding with the stains or a trend toward opaque. I did not expect the glaze to go from a high gloss to completely matt. One possibility because my scale tops out before the weighs I need for 10k grams I have to break each measurement in half so it is possible, maybe, I put 30% of one and 10% of something else. This is the only possible mistake I can see and since I am so careful It would surprise me if that's the case.

 

Can anyone see something else in the recipe that might cause this or have a suggestion of an adjustment that might get me back to gloss? I did use a new bag of frit 3134 but all the other ingredients were on hand and the ball clay was OM4.

 

 * All test were fired in the same 1cf test kiln with a controller fired ramp to cone 5 with 15 minute hold and controlled cool down to 1200 degress.     

 

Honey Amber ^6 Oxidation Glaze

Dolomite 20
Frit 3134 20
Flint 20
Spodumene 20
Ball Clay 20

 

additives:
Manganese Dioxide 3
Red Iron Oxide 5


Sealing Hump Molds

21 November 2014 - 01:53 PM

I have a dozen hump molds I made and use on a regular wheel. I have a designated wheel and rack for this process and carefully clean the area up between uses to avoid any contamination.  

 

My problem is that as I move the molds around between the rack and wheel and throw on it, some small bits of plaster and plaster dust is around the area at the end of my session. Its not a lot but I would like to reduce or eliminate if possible. This weekend I was going to thoroughly clean the molds again to make sure all loose plaster from the making process is truly gone.

 

The side rim and bottom seem to generate the plaster debris I'm talking about and neither of these surfaces need to be particularly absorbent as the clay doesn't sit on the these surfaces. I figured after that cleaning I would lightly sand and then coat these surfaces with something to make them less prone to flaking.

 

Fist off does anyone see a problem with this plan and does anyone have a suggestion of what to use to coat the side rim and bottom. I may from time to time hit the rim with the tip of a throwing tool so I don't want to use anything that would cause too much havoc should a piece of it end up in clay and get fired.

 

I was thinking of brushing on something like diluted Elmer's wood glue. I like the glue idea because it is less likely to flake as a powder if its hit with a metal throwing tool and if a small piece did find its way in I assume it would burn out fine.

 

Any input would be appreciated. Just started working with molds and followed the best practices outlined here on a CAD posted article.         


Brent Wheel Won't Stay Stopped

19 November 2014 - 12:09 PM

I have a Brent IE-X wheel that's about a year or so old and has seen really very limited use. Yesterday is developed a frustrating problem. When you stop the wheel with the foot peddle it stops for about a full second and then there is a little vibrating hum from the motor and the wheel starts slowly turning in somewhat of a jerky motion. If you press the foot peddle it then runs just fine but I can't come to a stop.

 

I checked the foot peddle pretty thoroughly and there is not any thing such as dried clay keeping it from coming to a stop and like I said it does stop, completely, for about a full count before starting that creeping forward motion.

 

Would appreciate any ideas?


The Art Festival Newsletter Survey

05 November 2014 - 01:27 PM

http://origin.librar... Who We Are.pdf