Jump to content


Member Since 01 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 05:46 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: How Do You "mark" Your Pot?

21 November 2014 - 08:32 AM

I use a bisque stamp. I made the stamp by carving the design into a small, round, plaster block that I cast using a foil lined muffin tin. Then the clay was pushed into the plaster and bisque fired. My clay stamp is cylindrical and has the design on both ends. I keep the plaster master and can make more from it. I used several of the plaster rounds to make designs for clay sprigs to add to pots.


In Topic: What Does Centering Clay Mean To You? | September 6, 2013

10 November 2014 - 05:39 PM

Centering means now I can get to the pulling, shaping, and that form I have in my mind. How well I centered directs how well these next steps go.  For quite a while my centering was loosely centered; just enough to start working, and rarely centered well, and then only by grace of unknown forces. 


When it finally clicked in for me was maybe three years after starting and opened a world of possibilities with no more thick-thin, no more too wet clay to pull, and less slumping from overworked clay.  Boy howdy, that was a day to remember! Robin Hopper gave me what I had been missing in a Ceramic Arts Daily video and I was off to the races.



In Topic: Store Bought Clay Slip Is Way Too Thick...

10 November 2014 - 05:26 PM

I am not a slipcaster, but I have purchased slip in the US that was as you describe.  My experience is it may be thixotropic and will thin out with agitation, or it may need sodium silicate to deflocculate it some and thin it out without water addition.  Since there is headroom in the container, it may be that UK ships it so it may be adjusted on site.  With no experience with the Brit way, if it doesn't thin our with agitation, I would wait for experienced help.  Hopefully the warehouse will respond.


You might also try Scarva for technical information at:





In Topic: Making Very Fine Lines!

04 November 2014 - 11:59 AM

Along the lines (ugh) of what Chris was saying, you can do as Lorna Meaden does and scratch the lines into leather hard ware, then underglaze, let dry and scrape back to expose individual lines, then bisque and glaze as usual.  If you look at Google images of her work you should be able to see the general idea, but also that the underglaze tends to excape into the covering glaze.  She soda fires, which adds the tendency to pull the underglaze into the soda glaze matrix, and at cone 6 oxidation that may be less of a concern.





In Topic: How Do I Best Use A De-Humidifier In My Studio?

04 November 2014 - 11:50 AM

I have a dehumidifier in my basement where the studio is.  I set it at 50% year round and throw a sheet of plastic over any ware once it is ready to dry.  I haven't had any issues with abnormal cracking since I got it a couple of years back.  I do appreciate that in the humid times of year in Atlanta,  I can dry ware in the studio rather than taking it outside into a screen porch as I once did.


I try not to get into situations where I need to force dry ware as it tends to cause accidents with my pots in the kiln.