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JLowes

Member Since 01 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Apr 09 2014 03:34 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Low Hand Strength?

09 April 2014 - 03:33 PM

For a very long time I was not able to center clay well; just didn't seem to get it.  I got it "good enough", but never well centered. Then, I saw a Robin Hopper video on centering and his method and explanation worked wonders for me.  Robin pointed out that the spinning clay is coming toward your right hand and if you oppose the spin with the unmoving right hand, the clay has to either push you out of the way, or yield and go up.  Up is controlled with the right hand on top.  It is basic, good sense, advice, but sometimes changing your approach to a problem is what is needed.  It may not help you, but it is worth review to see if it may.  You may have developed methods over years of potting that are not working for you with your issues, and a slight adjustment may be just what you need.

 

http://ceramicartsda...h-robin-hopper/

 

Best of luck,

 

John


In Topic: Firing Organic Additions To Clay

09 April 2014 - 03:16 PM

Russel Fouts in a PMI article was showing how he gets smoking effects on pots in an electric by wrapping them with paper and then in aluminum foil and firing them to around 1,000 F.  Perhaps this could be an avenue to explore.  In my saggar firing for fuming I use aluminum foil (heavy duty commercial kitchen foil) and it starts to break down around 1,000 F, but I fire to as high as 1,350 F with the shell of foil intact, but I don't stay at that temperature for long.

 

Hey, I'm getting an idea here....

 

John


In Topic: Pendulum Glazing

09 April 2014 - 03:07 PM

It was odd that two or three pots didn't seem to catch any of the glaze at all.  Those that got the most looked interesting though.  My first thought was the same that I get when I see someone standing in front of a glaze bucket with the glazy eye look; someone didn't make a plan on how to glaze a pot they made.  If you ran a looping video of the glazing method in a sales display, I wonder if this would sell more pots.

 

John


In Topic: Surface-Mixed Burner.

04 April 2014 - 12:50 PM

In the surface mix burners I have seen, you have a fuel source and a oxidizing source that mix and burn from the tip, so that would not be practical for a larger kiln, I would think.  A powered burner, although pre-mixed, comes close.

 

John


In Topic: Hydro-Bat, Wonder At, Speedball Bat, Or Birch Wood Bats?

04 April 2014 - 12:47 PM

I have Creative Industries, now Speedball, plastic bats in both the 7-1/2" square and 12" round.  My main beefs with them is that they warp (at least my 7-1/2" squares did, large rounds no), and the pin holes are in the bottom and it can be annoying to find the pins.  Also my pin holes have worn, so I had to learn better technique when throwing so they don't lift (side benefit, better throwing skills??)  It makes it hard to keep a consistent wall thickness when the bat is rocking to and fro.  I saw Bill Van Gilder setting a Masonite bat down on pins that he just set into the wheel-head (no wing-nuts) and throw a great cylinder after centering by using his hand and finger position so the clay had nowhere to go but up....light-bulb moment.

 

I have used the round plastic two hole and the Masonite two hole bats in a public studio.  I found that I usually had to puts some pats of clay under them to keep them from wobbling around.

 

I found that with large pots that I can leave them on the CI bat and they will pop off when they are just about ready for trimming.  I found this out during a workshop on throwing sectional pots.  I had been told differently, but nothing speaks the truth like success.

 

John