I have used Standard Clay 365 a grolleg porcelain formulated to fire at Cone 6. To get translucency the clay has to be pretty thin. For translucency you will need the porcelain to specifically say it can be translucent, as there are versions using domestic kaolin that will not be translucent. There are quite a number of choices available.
I used the 365 for objects made on the wheel, so I can't address if it hand builds well. I found it worked well for me on the wheel. It does help to get all the height you want before starting to expand a form. While drying, I kept it covered in plastic until it evened out and had dried pretty well. It tends to firm up better than stoneware, as it nature seems to be thixotropic. To get it thin, I find it best to let it get leatherhard and trim normally, then fine tune and get thinner yet with the stainless steel rib.
Handles and such additions are more problematic with porcelain than with stoneware in my experience. Cracking of joins being the main issue. I find that making a paperslip type joining slip to help with that:
Martha Grover joining slip
I have also used Laguna WC-616 (Miller #15), and Coleman Porcelain (Cone 10 for translucency), and found similar throwing characteristics. I have recently had some L178 NZ 6 - MID-RANGE PORCELAIN CONE 4-6 shipped from Clay Art Center in Tacoma, WA. It is supposed to be very translucent, similar to Southern Ice in translucency. We shall see...
Enjoy the journey; trying new things can be fun!