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Member Since 06 Jan 2013
Offline Last Active Sep 15 2013 09:04 PM

#29121 replacing kiln elements

Posted by JessicaGrayCeramics on 09 February 2013 - 07:17 AM

For the elements, the gauge and length of the elements are really all you'll need to worry about. Measure out the length covered by each one along the grooves in the bricks and nearly any manufacturer or element specialist can get you what you need. Are you certain you even need new elements? Once you have the wire gauge and length, you can test for resistance to see if the element is within tolerance. My website has a tutorial for testing elements. Most kilns around that size should be reading near 25 Ohms on each element, give or take 2.5 Ohms.

The Orton Autofire 3000 Operates at 24V AC input. This info can be quite helpful in figuring out what input voltage you should have.
If you could have someone trace the wiring from the inputs on the controller to the transformer that supplies it, that would help figure out the source voltage. For instance, you're likely looking at a 10:1 transformer, meaning 220 to 240V.

On a sitter related note, the sitter is capable of cone 12. Not sure about your particular kiln though.

We've dealt with quite a bit of older equipment and have overcome the "who made this" problem in the past. Luckily, these things are full of fairly universal parts.

#27422 Advice for restoring an old Lockerbie kick wheel

Posted by JessicaGrayCeramics on 06 January 2013 - 03:09 PM

If the bearings are original, you may consider replacing them and giving them fresh lubricant. Over time, they build up metal particles from erosion that cause further erosion. This can be minimized with regular lubrication, which forces at least some of the particles out. Use a quality grease on the upper bearings. Don't worry if you force some out when you pump in the new, it just means you've done a good job. The lower bearings don't have a grease fitting in most cases, so general lubricating oil can be used here. If you're going to use the wheel a good bit, quarterly or even monthly lubrication will help to keep it feeling smooth and new.

Make sure you adjust your bearings to place minimal stress on the shaft between the kick wheel and the wheel head. New bearing assemblies usually fit snugly enough that you just have to make sure you're not tweaking the assembly when you tighten down the bolts. This will prolong the life of not only the bearings, but the shaft as well.

I found a quick how to article with images that should help here: http://www.lockerbie...nstructions.php