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Mart

Member Since 30 Dec 2012
Offline Last Active May 19 2014 03:27 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: How In The World Do I Make This?

19 May 2014 - 03:27 AM

Are you sure you do not need a 3 piece mould? (I can not tell form the picture, how your piece looks like) - 2 for sides and one for the bottom.
If not, use 2 piece - one for the bottom.

I mix olive oil with "household soap" (old school stuff still used to hand wash clothes on washing board. I have no idea how it's called in US.) aka mould release etc.

The bottom part for your mould (blue).

Attached File  mould0.jpg   55.26KB   1 downloads

When the plaster gets hot and then starts to cool, it pushes lots of water out from the plaster. Sometimes (not always) this is the best time to open the mould. But it obviously depends what plaster mix is used, how big and what shape etc is the piece etc.
I have left stuff sitting overnight and never had problems. Start with that.

In Topic: Banding Wheel To Throw Light Pottery?

30 April 2014 - 04:58 AM

Sure you can use banding wheel for throwing (why is it called throwing in English? ... never mind).

You need the one with really heavy metal wheel. If you do not have one, pour miniature concrete "wheel", centre it and connect it to your branding wheel. It can keep enough momentum. It will not be like your kick wheel but it still works with soft slippery clay.

 

If you have a correct size lifting weight (those round ones, that go on a bar) you can use that as a flywheel.

Use soft clay for connecting the bat to your modern "stone age" throwing wheel :)

 

Make a hole to the top side of the bat and use a stiff stick to spin it up.


In Topic: Spoonrests or Top Ramen

13 March 2014 - 11:05 AM

Spoon rest must be a American thing. Really interesting that people buy those.

Nobody here wants them even for free ( I made few to see do people like them)

They ask: "Why use "spoon rests" if we have saucers that work as well"


In Topic: Sanding Cone 10 Bisqueware?

02 March 2014 - 06:29 AM

use water and wet sandpaper... dust problem solved.


In Topic: Paint Brushes

02 March 2014 - 06:27 AM

Regardless of whether you make your own or buy your brushes, proper care and storage is important to keeping them in good shape. Many folks store their brushes handle down in a cup/jar, with bristles in the air. That is not a good way to store or dry your brush as the water runs down into the ferrule. Store your brushes by hanging them from the tip of the handle. That lets the water run down when drying and it allows the bristles to keep their shape when dry and not in use.

 

+1

As mentioned before, use cheep stuff for wax (personally never used wax) and good stuff for painting lines etc.

Natural hair (dog, squirrel, sable, ox ear, pony etc) watercolour brushes are the best. For a really fine lines, I actually use really thick (>10) but fine tipped brush.

 

Forget the synthetic bristles. Yes, some of those will soak up paint/gaze well but will not let it go so well as natural hair does.

I got myself few Escoda pony hair round oval shape brushes with short handle. Wow... I wish I had the money to buy more of those :)

They will probably last for a long time.

 

To be honest, covering large areas with brush is, simply put, BS and I like to avoid it if possible. Pouring, dipping, throwing o_O or what ever you can come up with, will give better results. I wish I had a spray booth :)