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Rockhopper

Member Since 16 Dec 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 12:13 PM
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#122256 Hummingbird Feeder Spout Placement

Posted by Rockhopper on 13 February 2017 - 06:06 PM

Definitely do NOT want a 'vent'.  Regardless of what shape your feeder is, it needs to function as a bottle - with the only opening being the one that you put the tube/cork into.

 

The reason the tube works is that air cannot get into the container except through the tube.  If you have a vent hole, it will let air in, and the nectar will run out as fast as the air can come in.




#119415 Glaze From Local Creek Clay - What To Add ?

Posted by Rockhopper on 29 December 2016 - 07:14 PM

 

As a simple base line; start with: 25% native clay, 20% silica, and 55% Nep SY.  (8.58 total alkali - molar)

 

Nerd

 

 

The color is very nice. You could use Nerd's suggestion but do a test in increments of 5% of the silica and Neph Sy.
Begin with 5 silica and 10 NS and increase. You may have to test again to get the right ratio, Texture is determine by the ratio between the silica and the clay.
Marcia

 

The best answer is probably "try it and see"... but would doing the same with Custer Feldspar, instead of NS, be an option worth trying ?  (I already have some Custer on-hand, and would have to go buy some NS to try it.)




#119412 Glaze From Local Creek Clay - What To Add ?

Posted by Rockhopper on 29 December 2016 - 07:01 PM

Making clay or glaze from local materials requires lots and lots and lots of testing

 

No doubts about that Mark...

 

I spent over a year, trying various combinations of EPK, OM4, Feldspar, and Flint, added to my base clay, trying to get a 'wheel-friendly' body. (Didn't have my own kiln, so would mix several small batches, make some test pieces, then wait a week or two for the studio owner to fit them into a firing.)  I learned a lot about clay in the process - but when I reached the point where "my" clay was no longer the primary ingredient, I felt like I was just adding some of my clay to 'other stuff', and gave up.  (In my mind, it was OK to add stuff to my clay to make it work ... but when it was the other way around, the end result was no longer the clay from 'my creek'.)




#54737 Struggles Developing Clay Body From Local Clay

Posted by Rockhopper on 15 March 2014 - 02:05 PM

Update:   after much trial & error - 60+ recipe variations, 100+ test tiles, and failed pots ranging from crumbling to melted - I have a useable clay body.  Still need to tighten it up a bit before I can use it for vases & such (paper towel placed under bowl filled with water, gets damp pretty quickly) - but at-least my pots aren't coming out of the kiln looking like lava :)

 

Current mix;  Local Clay 41.5%, EPK 35%, Silica 15%, Custer Spar 8.5%

 

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#43800 Struggles Developing Clay Body From Local Clay

Posted by Rockhopper on 06 October 2013 - 08:29 PM

These two show the wide surface, middle portion of the two pieces.  4) Shows tan and RR side-by-side and overlapping in center; 5) un-glazed strip

 

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#43799 Struggles Developing Clay Body From Local Clay

Posted by Rockhopper on 06 October 2013 - 08:26 PM

Here are some close-up pics.  Not quite pro-quality macro, but as good as it gets with my Canon powershot..

 

The first three are cross-section of broken test-strips.  1) Un-glazed;  2) RR end of glazed piece; 3) Tan end of glazed piece.  (2 & 3 are opposite ends of same piece)

 

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