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Rockhopper

Member Since 16 Dec 2012
Offline Last Active Nov 26 2014 08:22 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Recentering Issue, Trimming Problem

18 October 2014 - 08:38 AM

surely a level on the gg head will make that obvious. I think the pots need to be flipped before trimming hardness arrives. Rim will be drying way faster  htan the foot which if recaught on bat will lead to warping.

 

Being level - and being centered are two different things.  It's possible for the GG to be perfectly level, and still not be centered on the wheel-head. 

 

Try using a pencil or piece of chalk (instead of a needle-tool) to check both the wheel-head and the GG to make sure they are centered and round.  (This will leave a mark on the 'high' spots if there are any, and make it easier for you to see where it's off.)


In Topic: Putting My Kiln Into A Rental

14 October 2014 - 07:17 PM

Have you talked to your insurance agent ?  It may be possible for you to purchase some sort of 'general liability' or 'umbrella' coverage, separate from your standard renter's insurance, that would protect both you and the landlord in the event of damage caused by a kiln accident.

 

I'm neither an insurance agent nor a lawyer - but I'm thinking that relying on the landlord to insure against loss caused by your kiln may be a bad idea.  His insurance company could pay the damages - then claim you were negligent and try to recover the money from you.

 

As for a 'storage building' - be sure to check into building & zoning codes before you buy anything.  Many areas have restrictions on where you can place such structures in relation to existing buildings & property lines.  Distance from the house (and the main electrical panel) could make a big difference in the cost of running electricity to the building.

 

And...  regardless of whether it's inside the house, or in a separate 'barn', make sure any electrical work is done by a licensed electrican, and necessary permits & inspections are obtained.


In Topic: Brushing Glaze: How Long Between Coats?

11 October 2014 - 08:49 PM

Benzine - those ink brushes look like mops compared to the short-bristled brushes I've used  :)  

 

Most of my glaze brushing has been with inexpensive brushes that look similar to these http://ecx.images-am...opL._SY300_.jpg  Looks like I definitely need to try some different types next time.


In Topic: Brushing Glaze: How Long Between Coats?

11 October 2014 - 02:41 PM

In my experience, I actually find that natural brushes apply the glaze better.  As they do swell, they hold more of the paint/ glaze, leading to smoother application.  

The glaze brushes, I use, are like liquid ink brushes.  I find they offer great control as well.

 

Interesting.  Not sure what you mean by 'liquid ink brushes'.   Maybe I need to try a different shaped brush.  I haven't done a lot of brushing - but what I have done has been with flat brushes, 1/2" to 3/4" wide, and the nylon bristles definitely work better for me with that type/size of brush.  (With smaller, detail brushes, it doesn't seem to make much difference, since neither type holds much glaze.)


In Topic: Brushing Glaze: How Long Between Coats?

11 October 2014 - 10:51 AM

Something that may help you with 'flowing' vs 'brushing' the glaze on:  The type of bristle in your brush will make a difference in how the glaze flows from the brush. (Same holds true when painting - whether on pottery, canvas, or walls.)

 

My father-in-law was a painter, and taught me to always use synthetic bristles (nylon or polyester) for water-based paints.  The reason:  "Natural" bristles are animal hairs, and absorb water, which makes the glaze or paint cling to them.  Water also makes the bristles swell a bit, affecting the flexibility & feel of the brush.  Synthetic bristles are non-absorbent, so your water-based glazes will flow much more freely & uniformly from them.  (They're also easier to clean, and less likely to retain small particles that become dust when the brush dries.)