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Member Since 29 Nov 2012
Offline Last Active Feb 14 2017 11:48 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Falls Creek Shino

22 March 2014 - 07:11 PM

Beautiful examples. Thanks for the pictures and informative post!

Pic # 2. Is that a dark slip decoration ( horizontal lines), applied while leather hard, bisqued then fcs glazed? What is dark slip formula formula? I have a slip that is clay body slip (helios) with black mason and a clay body slip with manganese I will experiment with......

#3 I'm assuming there is a lot of texture in piece.? Secondly it appears to play well with other glazes?

#1. I love 266. But all the health warning posts make me afraid to buy more of it. :(


#2: Exactly. I'm pretty sure it's 266 in slip form but I may be forgetting the exact clay


#3 It loves texture! It breaks on anything (lettering, throwing lines) but it sometimes has to be more of a severe texture like the mug to get it to break with two glazes, depending on the combination (test!). And yes, it plays well with almost all of our glazes except for the really funky ones that don't like to play well with others.


#1 I only use 266 on rare occasions. I don't worry much about it wet but am super cautious doing anything that might create dust with it.

In Topic: Falls Creek Shino

22 March 2014 - 06:33 PM

I know the falls creek shino really, really well. It's one of the favorite glazes my studio works with, and I've used it myself hundreds of times. It's the clay body that (mainly) causes the color change. It's always creamy/oatmeally on white clays. On anything darker, it's great. The first picture is using a really dark clay (Standard's 266), the second is using a porcelain with a dark slip decoration, and the last is Standard's Hazelnut clay (312, I think) with a green glaze over the top. All the pieces have the same thickness of glaze. On the darker clays, a thicker application can lighten up the glaze, but it always is creamy on the white clays no matter how thin of a coat you apply.


Hope this helped some,


In Topic: White Clay Body Advice

26 November 2013 - 07:18 PM

I'm a huge fan of Standard's 551 porcelain. It's really white, throws well, and doesn't seem to be particularly prone to warping. It's happy to be thrown thin, tall, collars in well, and doesn't collapse easily like when you're making large wide bowls. I've colored it with mason stains which also worked. It's a bit more expensive than highwater's little loafers which I've also used and liked. The two of them are almost identical in terms of whiteness at all stages. I prefer 551 for throwing (by just a tiny bit), but the cost difference may not be worth it for you. Hope this helped some.



In Topic: Do You Use Highwater's White Clays?

10 July 2013 - 08:23 AM

They both feel pretty similar to me and throw about the same. I liked how they both threw. I prefer throwing with less groggy, smoother stoneware (as you said, slimy) as well as porcelain. I liked how my glazes came out on both, but a few were more variegated and had more interest on P5. However, I have had issues with P5 bloating. The P5 batch that was over fired (went to cone 7) really bloated, and the next firing was a perfect cone 6, but there were still a few spots of bloating (not nearly as bad). Using pieces I made in little loafers around my house, they seemed more susceptible to getting grungy (moldy?) on the bottom which to me suggested that it wasn't as vitrified as I would want in a functional piece. Long story short, I blended them and both problems seemed to be solved.

In Topic: Do you feel that it is important to have a sketch book to capture ideas? | 04...

30 April 2013 - 09:09 AM

I carry a single sketchbook with me everywhere. The front starts with anything that's not related to glazing, and the back starts with glazing. When they meet, it's time to get a new one!