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Avaviel

Member Since 24 Nov 2012
Offline Last Active Jan 17 2013 10:52 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: bypassing the bisque step?

14 January 2013 - 10:42 PM

I've read that 8% bentonite added to the glaze can help with once-fired. I also remember something about glazes not running as much if once-fired.

Also, test test test! Do test tiles and test bowls and such. That way you can figure out what glazes work best, modified.

In Topic: Cone 6 bisque what cone for glaze?

23 December 2012 - 10:20 AM

For re-glazing I'll heat up the piece to around 300ish, and then 'boil on the glaze', but as my professor says. This would apply to this as well, but be sure to use tongs! I've successfully rescued pots before re-glazing, and and I'm sure that it would help with this. You may be able to go with a lower temp, you could set your kiln to reach 300 degrees, and and test how well the glaze adheres at the milestone numbers, like 100 150 and so on. Good luck!

In Topic: Glaze and clay exploration

14 December 2012 - 11:23 PM

I'm kicking myself because I left the photo of the metallic glaze test at home. However, I did upload the photos of the 'new' Midori glaze. Now it's looking like a green celadon, before the re-design it looked like a crackling green glass.

'New' Midori
Posted Image

'old' Midori
Posted Image

My plan is to do a line blend between the two, as the simplification that my professor did greatly changed the look... I don't mind the new look, but I'd like to see what happens in the blends. I have a feeling that through the line blends I'll start to get a feel about controlling the crackle.

Midori old
I've re-distributed everything to add up to 100%.
Custer 18.2
Flint 16
EPK 16.8
Crimson 4.6
Gersley Borate 3.6
Bentonite 1
Whiting 7.4
Neph Sy 8.2
Volcanic Ash 13
Mag Carb 3.2



TJR, after the glaze tests I've found a version of that metallic glaze that I like – I'll start calling it Iron #5 for now. (It was the fifth out of sixteen tests.) It has the red, but it also has a nice black accent that shows up on bumpy areas. I'll edit the photo in later, but for now here is the recipe.

IRON #5
EPK 4.4
Bone Ash 11
Talc 8.8
Flint 22
Custer 18
F-4 27
Spodumene 8.8

Iron was removed, and Red Iron will be added in 1% intervals as suggested. I'll also try the other colorants. I'll have to make taller test tiles, as the glaze runs. That's ok, as I also want to design functional wear that will suit the glaze.

It's nice that Christmas is coming up... but I may go crazy, as I won't have access to 'the lab' and the wheel!

In Topic: silica carbide and lava glazes

14 December 2012 - 10:20 PM

Ok, so I did a few test glazes @ cone 10 with a cratering slip. It didn't do anything, as a slip or a glaze... in any of the tests. This particular example was dipped in slip that had the SC, bisqued, and then glazed.

I have a feeling that we had the wrong material, though. I'll find out the next time I'm at school.

Posted Image
Ceramics by avaviel, on Flickr

In Topic: silica carbide and lava glazes

12 December 2012 - 09:17 PM

My teacher obtained it from an industrial type place... something to do with glass.

I'm doing some tests now. We're doing them as an addition to the slip – not the glaze. He recommended an addition of around 6%. In the tests, they range from 2% to 12%. I also did mixes with other glazes, to see what happens.


edit: I found a link to a rock tumbler website, http://rocktumbler.com/grit.shtml They have the type that we used, the coarsest grit.