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Member Since 10 Nov 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 11:22 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Finding Bats To Fit Shimpo Rk-2 Wheel Head

21 January 2017 - 11:09 AM

It's all a matter of accurate layout and marking (if you're not so accurate). I have a CI-Mp wheel with 10" pin holes. I've made plaster bats, corian bats and bats from old Formica topped particle board kitchen counters. In all cases I have marked the bats on one edge to align with a mark I scribed on the wheel head. This way I can reposition the bat the same way it was on the wheelhead when the piece was thrown.

In making the corian and formica bats, I rough cut the material, layed out the center point and dinged it with a SHARP center punch, and layed out an accurate 5" radius circle. I drew a line through the center point to intersect the circle on 2 sides, carefully punched the bat on the intersecting lines and drilled the bats first with a 1/8" bit and then with a 3/8" bit to match the bat pin heads, also being careful not to drill all the way through the bat. Test the piece BEFORE you cut the final circle so you don't waste a lot of time if you screw-up the hole drilling. You can layout the final size to whatever you want the bat diameter to be.

The particleboard bats were painted with 3 coats of spar urethane to waterproof them so they didn't swell when they got wet. No urethane on the Formica side. You can generally get the Formica and Corian sink cutouts for free from a place that installs kitchen counters, or you can contact a friendly kitchen remodeling contractor and ask for the pieces. You can usually get at least 2 bats 12"-14" in diameter from each 21"x30" cutout.


In Topic: Brent Cxc Wheel Problem: Full Speed At Power On And Trips Circuit Breaker

10 January 2017 - 10:44 AM

After trying a different as Ron suggested, try disconnecting the foot pedal and turning it on. If the problem persists, then there is probably a short in the control board. If disconnecting the foot pedal takes care of the problem, then the problem is probably in the foot pedal. Many foot pedals use a simple potentiometer to control speed. You might try to wire in a pot by itself and if that works, then the problem is in the foot pedal. Change the pot in the foot pedal or replace the entire foot pedal.


In Topic: Beginner Clay Questions

09 January 2017 - 02:30 PM

Ah, I watched most of your video. I sorta wish I could have kept pottery as a hobby.


There are many people (myself included) who couldn't just enjoy "good enough". We had to get better and better. I don't know why. So it is refreshing to see a good non-professional make a movie. Yup, it takes 20 minutes to finish throwing a cup. And I think the finished piece looks nice.

I think one of the most fun and fulfilling things about being a "hobby potter" is when I sit down at my wheel with the idea of throwing a large mug or bowl and, as I get to the final pull and the wall is too thin to support itself and starts to collapse, rather than peeling the wad of clay off the wheel, I continue working with it and wind up with a shot glass or toothpick holder. It's one of the nicer things about not being a pro potter.

I've been the pro route as a photographer with more than 50 years of shooting pix and as a general contractor with more that 35 years of experience.

Playing in the mud is just plain fun for me!

In Topic: Can Tall Teapots Like These Be Handbuilt? These Are Extruded

08 January 2017 - 11:04 AM

Hi again! So I'm up to the spout! I imagine I need to handbuild the spout, as how could such a tall and narrow spout be thrown? And I dont have an extruder die that puts out a narrow and hollow tube. Thanks!

You might try this, Nancy...

Get a dowel stick or other rod the diameter of the inside of your spout and wrap a couple of times with newspaper. DON"T tape the newspaper to the rod, but do tape the outside to itself just to hold it together. You should be able to slide the paper a little on the rod. Roll out a slab to the thickness and length of the spout, then wrap the clay around the dowel, joining it to make the tube that will become the spout. Practice a little so you can get the spout looking like you want. After the clay is a soft leather hard and you can handle it without breaking it, pull the rod through the tube and out. The paper will stay inside the clay tube you have made, but you don't have to worry about that now. When the clay dries, you will be able to pull the paper out. What doesn't come out will burn off in the firing.

I used this method to make stems for some yard-art mushrooms and it worked well.
‚ÄčThe left over spouts, if you have any, you can dry and fire and make wind chimes with them. :) 


An alternative to this method would be to go to an auto supply store and buy an oil funnel which is long and tapered and use it to wrap your slabs around.


In Topic: Beginner Clay Questions

06 January 2017 - 10:24 AM

You are making wonderful progress for someone who doesn't have the time...As Preeta says, you're not going to become an expert at throwing in a couple of weeks...but I applaud your efforts.

I was in a similar place when I first started in ceramics a number of years ago. I took a local "Learning Exchange" class which lasted 6 weeks. In that period of time, we had class for 3 hours, one night a week. During that period of time, since it was just a "basic" course, the instructor said he expected us to produce only 4 pieces. At the end of 6 weeks he told me that he never had a student produce as much work during the course that I did...22 bowls and mugs.

So keep at it and practice, practice, practice.


Some suggestions for working with the smaller 170g cups. Try "throwing off the hump". It should make it somewhat easier to produce the smaller cups from a larger piece of clay. You can also smooth the cups with a metal rib before cutting from the hump, which will, in turn, reduce the lines on the outside of the cups. Try throwing with a little less water, too, so there isn't as much slip to remove.

As for cutting through the bottom when trimming...you can measure the thickness of the bottom when the piece is leather hard this way:

Place a flat piece of wood or metal (a ruler) across the top of the cup so that it extends beyond the side of the cup; take another piece of something straight and stiff (a small dowel or even a straw) that will accept marks from a sharpie or a pencil and place it inside the cup to the bottom. Make a mark on the vertical where it crosses the horizontal. Then take a measurement on the outside of the cup to the surface it is sitting on and make a mark similar to the first one. Voila!...the distance between the marks is the thickness of the base of the cup. This will tell you how much you can trim off the bottom before you punch through.

Give it a try and let us know how it works out!