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clay lover

Member Since 08 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Apr 26 2015 06:47 PM

Topics I've Started

No Tare Beam ;-(

20 April 2015 - 11:46 AM

is there a way to add a tare beam to a triple beam balance without one?   Add implied this item had tare, but after purchase, it does not .  It has the knurled knob to balance out the empty scale, but no way to zero out any container used.  Any good home made ideas?  Thanks,  I should have shopped longer. 

Defloculate, Or Add Water?

17 April 2015 - 12:40 PM

I have a glaze that is too thick and adding water to it in the past made it thin in the final appearance, after firing, but still thick and gloppy, drippy, runs, when dipping.  I watched the you tube videos on the subject, and let it settle, dipped off some water, (clear), and tried adding sodium silicate. I  let it sit a couple of days , and then sieving it to 40 mesh.  There were small rubbery bits all through it, but they did sieve out.   It still is very thick in the bucket, finger marks stay on the surface.  When it sits a day or 2, there is just a bit of water on the top and under that is it homogenous, very fluffy, no thicker in the bottom I/3 of the bucket at all.

Do I add more sodium silicate, or now add some water?


F4 feldspar 38

Whiting       14

Zinc Oxide  12

Ball Clay       6

Silica           30


copper carb 2

Bentonite     1


Thanks for any advice, I have used this glaze for years and just now had this problem.


Does A Really Nice Large Bowl Need A Foot Ring To Be Really Nice?

06 April 2015 - 09:01 AM

When you are working larger, say the 15"-18" wide bowl, will you always leave enough clay at the bottom to do a nice foot ring?  What is the least depth that you think is appropriate for a piece that will be priced in the $75-$125  range? Is a deeper foot ring considered a better treatment for a pricier piece, or is a well done, shallow foot just deep enough to keep the bottom off the kiln shelf but not deep enough to be glazed in the center bottom good enough?

Help Me Figure Out How To Glaze This.

30 March 2015 - 09:22 PM

I have been making those closed forms that then get cut in two to be lidded containers.  Throwing the form, collaring it in, closing the top completely, setting a ledge in on the side with a squared wooded stick, then cutting them apart at the top edge of the inset when leather hard.  They fit together very well after some trimming of the inside of the lid piece. The join is almost invisible, it fits so well.  I would love to be able to keep that seamless look .  My question is, when I glaze them, how do I plan the waxing so that I don't end up with a bare clay stripe around the join?  Or do I try and plan a glaze that looks like it goes with the bare clay color that might need to show at the edges of the upper and lower piece where they come together? 

II know I need to bisque them together. They fit so cleanly, I'm afraid to try and glaze fore them apart, for fear that they won't go back together after firing. 


Was there something I should have planned into the making or trimming of them that would have made the waxing and glazing easier?


Did this make any sense?


Is This Too Fast To Fire?

27 March 2015 - 08:16 AM

I have been trying to find a shorter bisque firing schedule, currently I take 16 hours with bone dry ware.  The following has been recommended to me.  Do you think it is safe?  or too fast?

Ramp 1 150* per hour to 200  hold 2 hours

Ramp 2 200* per hour to 700* hold ??

Ramp 3 100* per hour to 1,000*, no hold

Ramp 4 300* hour to 1925* hold 30 minutes

This  is a 13 hour total.


Some of this was from a more experienced potter, with guidance from Hamer and Hamer's book.