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Member Since 06 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Oct 17 2016 09:36 PM

#114723 Old Chemicals

Posted by JBaymore on 14 October 2016 - 09:08 PM

...............but I'm also used to the chemical composition being exactly what it says on the bottle!


Studio ceramics is going to drive you nuts!  ;)





#114721 Qotw: Ceramics In Action Pictures Anybody?

Posted by JBaymore on 14 October 2016 - 09:04 PM

John...you look good with a bun...


I do.  :)   But that is not me.





#114662 Concerns About Wood/anagama Kiln Smoke Vs Neighbors...

Posted by JBaymore on 13 October 2016 - 02:07 PM

The anagama that I designed for our college can be fired totally smokeless as well as flameless at the top of the chimney without any active afterburners or any mechanical support systems.  This CAN be done.  It just requires and understanding of combustion theory, a bit of fluid mechanics, and having a budget to support it. 




"Traditional" anagama-style kilns smoke because they are basically old, outdated, and primitive combustion designs from about 900 to 1600 AD.  You do not need that choo-choo smoke to get good results.


Just about ANY style of wood kiln can be made to be smokless if you adjust the design parameters.  Note that this does NOT address the particulates in the PM 10 and PM 2.5 and down range.  They are still there.... you just can't see them.





#114661 Qotw: Ceramics In Action Pictures Anybody?

Posted by JBaymore on 13 October 2016 - 01:31 PM

One of my woodfired Chawan being used for a thick tea ceremony at the main Urasenke Headquarters in Kyoto.













#114405 Qotw: Are You Ransacking Trash Bins?

Posted by JBaymore on 07 October 2016 - 09:32 AM

I'm in the point in life that, like maybe Mark and Pres, I have stopped acquiring stuff "that might be good some day" in the studio.  Too many years doing that are already behind me. 


At the moment, I am working on streamlining my studio space and getting RID of stuff that is not sort of actively used.  Example: I've decided that I will no longer do any workshops out of my own studio... so I'm selling off about 4-5 wheels that I don't need.  Some plaster molds that I no longer use....... going away.  The "too heavy" thicker wood ware boards that are still absolutely perfectly useable.... but not nice and light like my brich ply ones....... so I don't tend to use them....... going.  And so on.


If I see something that will fill an IMMEDIATE need...... I would not be above "dumpster diving".... but I am not actively looking (like I used to).


However... that being said....... a dumpster full of new-ish insulating firebrick......... I'm all over it  ;) .





#114403 Starting An Indiegogo Campaign...and Not Sucking At It

Posted by JBaymore on 07 October 2016 - 09:19 AM



Your next hire should be someone with successful experience in fund-raising/donor development for non-profits.  No clay experience needed, just good non-profit business and fund-raising acumen.


I've sat on 3 non-profit Boards.  This stuff is NOT easy.


They can hire Lee as a consultant.  She has experience in this kind of stuff (as you can tell from her post above).





#114280 Stoneware Limit Study

Posted by JBaymore on 04 October 2016 - 04:48 PM

2) Custer formulations should indeed be based on 1999 levels.


Custer has been all over the map almost bag to bag for a couple of years now.  It is an issue.





#114251 Stoneware Limit Study

Posted by JBaymore on 04 October 2016 - 06:58 AM

With regard to what particle size distribution to aim for, there is an old paper by McGeary called "Mechanical Packing of Spherical Particles" which is worth a look.  It basically sets out the ratio of particles of different sizes to get the maximum packing density, based on a series of experiments they did with metal balls.  They go up to four different particle sizes if I remember.  I think there are some other references as well, including some addressing particles that are not round.  Have to think this whole topic is relevant.


That paper and this concept also relates to developing good glaze qualities for both application as well as for the durability of the dried (but unfired) glaze coating on the ware.  Helps to make it less prone to dusting and chipping.


Nerd.... you are going to have to become friends with someone at a nearby university and get access to a scanning electron microscope.  Maybe, as a retired contractor, you can do someone a new kitchen for free... and they'll give you some access ;) .





#113986 Need A Cheap Simple Clay Body Recipe

Posted by JBaymore on 29 September 2016 - 08:05 AM

Another reason that potash feldspars are typically used in clay bodies is that the sodium in high soda spars and neph sy tend to be slightly soluble.  Over time in wet clay they can change the  water chemistry... and change the handling characteristics of the clay body...... going slightly thixotropic.  Some cone 6 bodies stored wet for a long time (fluxed with neph sy) are really prome to this issue.


I use "granite dust" all the time in bodies.  it runs anywhere from fines up to maybe 3/8" chunks.  For the nature of the work I do and the character I want in a body....... works just fine.





#113985 Equipment/tool Shaming/bullying

Posted by JBaymore on 29 September 2016 - 07:35 AM

And, in true Smart-@$$, full disclosure...written by someone who installed his first slab roller that same day,


"Real Potters" use a rolling pin they constructed themselves out of the wood from a tree that they chopped down. ;)





#113739 Stoneware Limit Study

Posted by JBaymore on 24 September 2016 - 09:33 PM



What I do to a lot of my clay bodies would give you a coronary. :ph34r:  :lol:





#113725 The Only Absolutely True Rule For Potters. Pay Attention To This

Posted by JBaymore on 24 September 2016 - 12:30 PM

The old item that you have in the studio for 40 years that you haven't used or needed for the last 30 years... and you throw it out.


The next day.... is the day you need it again.  :blink:





#113717 Do You Like....?

Posted by JBaymore on 24 September 2016 - 10:45 AM

As a long time maker of asymmetrical and "loose" kinds of forms....... intended mainly for function........ I find an interesting aspect in the use of language in this thread.  More so than the pieces themselves.  It is how we are defining and describing things as we discuss them.


The choice of the use of the terms like "Perfect" and "Imperfect" and the association to "Symmetrical".


And the choice of terms like "Unrefined" associated with "Simple" and "Rustic".


And the associations that things like "wobble" and "wonky" are a negative.


I would contend that some of the "wonkiest" asymmetrical and rustic pieces can also be some of the most refined, well-considered, technically well executed, and sophisticated pieces there are, and are approaching if not attaining being "perfect". 





#113713 Studio Safety

Posted by JBaymore on 24 September 2016 - 10:14 AM

Agree with you John. The one that I currently use is a NIOSH 6001 3m, but it's cartridge is also for vapors. an overkill I think. Can one find cartridges without the carbon filter? It is also heavy on my face, and particularly my nose. 

Another question: do you think I can place it under a tap and wash thoroughly if I take the cartridges off?  I always just wiped it off, because of that front nossl- thingy. 




Yes... there are just straight P-100 / HEPA filters available.  Lots of online suppliers of safety equipment. The chemical carbon filter is doing nothing for you for the dusts except helping to empty your wallet.  So unless you are using solvents and stuff like lusters, it is also only making it a bit harder to breathe.  


Yes.... you can usually carefully wash the whole thing (minus filter cartridges) in warm soapy water.  Dry it well, and be careful of any mechanical "flappy" parts that control which way the air is flowing when you inhale and exhale.  And for storage, keep them in a sealed plastic bag AFTER washing the mask after use and letting the filters dry out from a bit of exhaled moisture.   Only dry stuff goes into the sealed bag.... unless you like to add molds to your list of possible exposures ;) .


The P-100 filters do not go "bad" over time.  But the chemical ones DO.  So exposure to air slowly kills their effectiveness.  The sealed plastic bags helps with that too.


After the "bad" comment above....... an important note I'd like to mention here is also that the P-100 filters do not slowly let more stuff get thru as they age.  Quite the opposite.  The filters "fail" by plugging up and letting less and less stuff thru.  Like ..... air.  SO when you notice that you are JUST starting to feel a little resistance to breathing or find that you get a little out of breath for a certain exertion level compared to "normal".... time to change the filters.





#113669 Equipment/tool Shaming/bullying

Posted by JBaymore on 23 September 2016 - 12:18 PM

 This is somewhat difficult to do on a forum since it is difficult to know that individual and there abilities and character.


One of my key reasons for not wanting to do critiques in online situations.