Jump to content


Member Since 06 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 09:58 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Real-Time Kiln Advice (Kiln Curently Firing)

Yesterday, 05:24 PM

Without visuals... very hard to say.


With those two burners, if they were operating correctly and the damper was adjusted correcly and the air balance was set right, you SHOULD be able to get that small kiln chamber completely full of products of combustion and actually have the flame-front burning off in the base of the chimney (reduction conditions).  In that case the chamber would apperar "hazy" and while you could see some quality of flame within the chamber... that might look like silk gauze rolling in a breeze...... you wouldn't typically see a separate flame and totally clear atmosphere elsewhere.


Have you ever been involved in reduction gas firing elsewhere?  If so... how does what you are seeing compare?


Video clips would help.


WIsh I could be there......... sorry.





In Topic: Real-Time Kiln Advice (Kiln Curently Firing)

Yesterday, 03:12 PM

I am thinking that your secondary air is way too much. This is the dial on the back of your burners. Crank it way in to about 1/4 inch, or the thickness of a pencil.


That shutter is primary air... not secondary.


So that is three changes all happening simultaneously for a test.  Too many variables changed for one test to read what is what.


I'd need video for a lot of the aspects of the kiln to say more very effectively.


The "blue" on the burners sounds like a good sign.  At least they are able to entrain some primary air.  That gives you some control.


The about 1" open (are you sure about that) on the damper sounds potentially plausible now that you have some primary air available.  You will find that changes of 1/8" on a kliln that size will make a differencde in the atmosphere and climb rate.


FYI...... Letting air into the chimney has the same effect on the kiln draft as closing the damper.


Make a change and wait at least 10-15 minutes to evaluate what it is doing.  Don't be changing things every 5 minutes.





In Topic: Glaze Not Uniformly Glossy On Cone 04 Body

14 April 2014 - 09:21 PM

"Ceramic Science for the Potter" is an absolutely GREAT book.... but not a "starter" book.  Too much information in the wrong format.  It assumes some decent knowledge.  As I remember ,... it is also expensive on the used market (not sure).


The best 'starter stuff' is getting Insight Level II and the nice little "Magic of Fire" book that comes with it and the access to the secure info on Digitalfire.com.  Then work thru the tutorials in order... and follow the other stuff in Magic of Fire.  I now use that as the "text" for my Ceramic Materials I course at the college...and have for a few years.


"Clay and Glazes for the Potter" (Robin Hoppoer revised edition is best now) is a good first book .... but the price is crazy now.





In Topic: Need A Clear Satin Glaze That's Not Cloudy

14 April 2014 - 09:15 PM

Title typo fixed :)

In Topic: Fusing Glass With Clay

14 April 2014 - 06:04 PM

Remember that some marbles (and other glasses) may potentially contain lead as a flux.