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Member Since 11 Sep 2012
Offline Last Active May 19 2015 06:50 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Sanding Porcelain

28 June 2014 - 07:55 PM

I know you said high fired, but in my experience I've found it's a lot easier to sand at the bisque stage if possible. The 220 wet-dry sandpaper works well but doesn't hold up long on the high fired porcelain—you get more mileage out of it at the bisque stage. I make a lot of unglazed porcelain beads and small sculptural forms, and my process is to use fine steel wool on bone dry greenware (if needed, wearing a mask), then after bisque firing I wet-sand any pieces that aren't as smooth as I'd like using either the diamond pads linked above, or sandpaper. After the final firing, if anything feels rough I might sand it again. A three step-sanding process is obviously a bit tedious, but for very special pieces it's worth it for the amazing buttery finish.


Also if you happen to be making small rounded forms, you could use a large rock tumbler with water and some aluminum oxide powder which is much, much easier than manually sanding them. This could be done at either the bisque or high fired stage depending on how much material you want to take away. 

In Topic: Unglazed Cone 6 Porcelain

14 November 2013 - 05:47 PM



Earlier this year I was making unglazed ^6 porcelain beads and fired them all together in an unglazed porcelain bowl. I never encountered any problems with fusing together. Once or twice I had to tap them a little bit with my finger to loosen them up, but they always came out fine. I also just fired some flat ^6 stoneware discs for another potter at my studio (flat circular slabs, fired in a stack of 4 or 5 deep) and they came out fine as well. I had to pull some of them apart, but it was easily done with my fingers, I didn't need to use a mallet or chisel or anything like that. 


If your work isn't super paper-thin delicate you'll probably be fine... but of course it's always a good idea to test before firing a whole kiln that way.

In Topic: Clear Glaze Crazing On ^6 Laguna Frost

13 November 2013 - 07:24 PM

Wait, Norm, I'm a bit confused now... wouldn't that mean that glazes would be more likely to shiver or dunt on Frost, not more likely to craze? 

In Topic: Matt And Glossy Glazes From "mastering Cone 6"

10 November 2013 - 09:41 PM

I'm sorry I can't offer any technical advice (as I'm also a glaze newbie), but I will say that I just tested Glossy Base 1, also with a slow cooling, and found the result to be more of a smooth, satiny finish—not matte, but definitely not a super shiny gloss. In my testing, I found both "Glossy Clear Liner" and "Glossy Base 2" to be true gloss finishes. I'd definitely recommend trying Glossy Base 2 if that's what you're looking for.

In Topic: Clear Glaze Crazing On ^6 Laguna Frost

08 November 2013 - 09:47 AM

Thanks so much for all your comments. The point about fixing the tiles where the crazing is furthest apart is really helpful, it makes perfect sense when I think about it… but I hadn't thought of it!
I am going to focus on trying to fix tiles 12 (glossy), 11 (satin), and 6 (matte) and will post results back here when I have them. Also, I am going to fire some test tiles without any glaze on them, to see what happens when they're subjected to the oven/water test.