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Member Since 08 Sep 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:05 PM

#62950 Shelf Grinding

Posted by Benzine on 21 July 2014 - 11:22 AM








They don't?!!!


I figured it was like something out of Harry Potter; flick your wrist, and the shelves float into the kiln to load, and once done firing, another flick of the wrist and they put themselves away.  Pffff, so much for the "Advance" portion of the name...

#62762 How Fast Do You Run Your Wheel When Centering?

Posted by Benzine on 18 July 2014 - 09:54 PM

My bigger hp wheel has a slower top speed than any wheel I have been on. Even then I think I am around the 50% mark.


Have you thrown on one of the two-speed Amacos?  I tell my students, those wheels have two speeds; kind of fast, and a little bit slower than that.  


Spaceballs!!! The Movie!!
You just made my day, HeeHee!


Thank  you for getting that, and not just assuming that I lost my mind, like everyone else....hehe

#62660 How Fast Do You Run Your Wheel When Centering?

Posted by Benzine on 17 July 2014 - 08:23 PM

All I have to say is, "LUDICROUS SPEED GO!!!"

#62198 What Is Your Throwing Position?

Posted by Benzine on 10 July 2014 - 10:01 PM

Babs, I started falling apart, once I hit thirty.  So it can really only get worse for me.


And I can't hurt that couch, it's my lounging area, for when I'm waiting for things to dry and such... or just procrastinate.  

#61965 Does Your Dominant Hand Dictate Form Or Are You Ambidextrous.

Posted by Benzine on 07 July 2014 - 09:14 PM

Happy Birthday indeed John!

#61953 Ways To Sign Your Pieces?

Posted by Benzine on 07 July 2014 - 07:21 PM

There are nearly unlimited ways to sign your wares.  You can inscribe your signature, as you mentioned.  If you don't like the look, try it when the clay is at a different dryness.  Alternately, Pres has many times stated that he uses a thin plastic bag over the clay, then signs, which prevents burs.  


Beyond that, many ceramicists make stamps they use to press into wet clay, sometimes along with a hand signature.  Also as you mentioned, you could stamp on a stain.  Others will sign with the stain and a brush, or even underglaze and a brush.

#61925 Firing A Small Figural Sculpture

Posted by Benzine on 07 July 2014 - 05:08 PM

Well, after months of the sculpture sitting around collecting dust (Pfff, silly teaching responsibilities), I was finally able to get it glazed, and find a day, where it wasn't raining or threatening to rain.




The firing went well, despite my worry, that the tank was getting a bit low, and was even able to do another quick firing, after I unloaded the sculpture. (Though the bottom of the tank did frost up on a near 90 degree day).


I had to try a couple different angles and grabs to get each piece of the sculpture out, without touching anything else, but I managed to do so.  The biggest issue was removing the spear, which I kept as separate piece, in case in needs to be replaced down the road.  I had the spear on stilts, but didn't really anticipate how hard it would be to grab that tiny thing with a pair of Raku tongs.  It was like a game of "Operation".  


As mentioned in the gallery, some of the glazes didn't turn out exactly as I wanted/ planned, probably due to the amount of reduction, or my timing from the kiln to sealed reduction bin.  But, when choosing colors, I went with those that even if they oxidized more than I wanted, they'd still fit the aesthetic.  


My biggest concern, and the one I made apparent, when I started this thread, was that because of the small attachment points, between the figures and their respective bases, I was concerned that the stress of firing would cause them to crack or detach completely.  This was a non-issue during the firing.  I honestly wasn't even too careful, about how I grabbed the pieces with the tongs.  

Now that that is all said and done, it's my wife's job to find somewhere in the house to put it.  And I'm on to another project.

#61912 Does Your Dominant Hand Dictate Form Or Are You Ambidextrous.

Posted by Benzine on 07 July 2014 - 12:53 PM

TJR, you weren't committed enough, to get them to use the left hand.  You should have had two sets of silverware, one on the right one on the left.  Then you should have wired up the set on the right to deliver a mild shock, when they went for them...


I also feel that being a left handed guitar player, playing a traditional right handed guitar, would be an advantage.  The more intricate hand movements, along the frets, seems like something you'd want your dominant hand to do.  I should note, this comes from someone who doesn't not play an instrument... Well since 5th Grade Band.

#61866 My Mugs Sprouted Roots!

Posted by Benzine on 06 July 2014 - 05:28 PM

That is the definition of "Greenware!

#61658 Hakame

Posted by Benzine on 02 July 2014 - 08:30 AM

Interesting video Bruce.


That might be the only studio where you'd hear, "No, don't use that to clean up, that's the 'glazing mop'!"

#61365 Real Time Preheating Question

Posted by Benzine on 25 June 2014 - 12:11 PM

Jayne, have you fired the piece with the wash yet, or it just went dark after wiping off the wash?  If it hasn't been fired, you may just need to really saturate the surface, and keep wiping.  

#61349 Aesthetically Pleasing Garments For Clay Workers.

Posted by Benzine on 25 June 2014 - 08:45 AM

TJR, you aren't supposed to split up the jeans you are currently wearing.  You are supposed to take old, worn jeans...

#61290 Large Tile To Fire.....need Help With How To Use A Waster

Posted by Benzine on 23 June 2014 - 10:00 AM

I had a student make a 20", circular relief sculpture.  I fired it on top of some coils, instead of a waster slab.  It worked well, and as a bonus added a little more air flow underneath throughout the firing.

#61116 How Strong Is Unfired Clay?

Posted by Benzine on 18 June 2014 - 04:01 PM

Thanks.  I like the glue idea as well :)


Would the clay be stronger if I fired in my BBQ pit at 800F?  I can get it about that hot pretty easily.

Nope, you'd probably just succeed in destroying the ware.  Clay doesn't lose it's chemical water, until over 1000 F, which is what initially makes it stronger.  Until that point, it will still absorb water, and remain brittle.  

I say it will destroy the ware, because unless you slowly increase the temperature, it would explode, spall, or at least crack.  It's possible, just difficult.  There was a video post here recently, of someone using a grill to fire some wares.  I don't recall if they were bisqued first though.

#61090 Glazing Textured Pottery

Posted by Benzine on 18 June 2014 - 11:15 AM

I was going to suggest the exact same thing Bob did.  Dip, or brush on a glaze or oxide stain everywhere, then wipe across with a damp sponge, to remove the glaze in the high points.  

I have found, that along with underglaze, it can give the work a nice aged look.