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Member Since 08 Sep 2012
Offline Last Active Feb 20 2017 07:27 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: S-Crack

20 February 2017 - 07:20 PM

If it was mine, I'd probably just remake it.  If it was something large or elaborate, that was just decorative, I might keep it.  Otherwise, try, try again.


I will attempt to mend student projects, with nearly any defect.  Not only does it make me better at repairing wares, but students don't have the time, nor skill level to remake a project.  And to them, they have so much time, pride and effort into making that one piece, in the beginning, telling them to remake it is pretty devastating.  

For any type of crack, I do tell them, that they are not functional.  Eventually, the crack will get worse and fail.

In Topic: Does Anyone Use Continental Clay As A Supplier?

19 February 2017 - 10:43 PM

Thanks for the response Roberta.  


I have also tried the Buff Stoneware.  The second district I taught at, fired mid-range, and used that.  So I kept with that same body.  It threw well, and I don't think there were any glaze issues.  I say that, because I know more now, than I did then.  I don't recall there being any big problems.  I did use clear with it, and don't recall issues, but it could be that I didn't notice.  


I will say, I made a couple of mugs for my brother, with that clay body.  One of the handles broke a few years later just from handling.  I do wonder, if it was a defect from building/ drying/ firing that didn't fully fail until years later.  Or if it is an issue with the clay not being properly vitrified at Cone 6?


I wonder if their representatives would be able to give me a more spot on firing temp for the specific bodies?  They also don't have specifications, like some suppliers do (Shrinkage, absorption, etc.)  I just looked at a mid-range white, that lists firing range from 4-7.  But then it says that it has be successfully fired to Cone 11!

In Topic: Raku Proposal For School

19 February 2017 - 10:41 AM

I do a yearly Raku firing with my Art Club students.  It's something to look forward to, at the end of our busy Fall season (Homecoming button design/ production and a Blood Drive we sponsor).  


I built my own kiln several years ago, with a trash can and ceramic fiber blanket.  I use a simple weed burner for mine, as that's all it really takes to get it to temperature.  

We fire outside the school, on a large concrete patio area.  I go over safety procedures repeatedly.  The LP tank is as far away as the torch hose allows.  The students unloading and tending to the reduction bins are wearing welding gloves and safety glasses.


Someone on these forums posted a method for building your own Raku tongs a few years ago.  I had already purchased mine, when I came across the instructions, or I may have tried to build my own.

Not to say mine don't work well, but the hinge bolt snapped on both of them, with only moderate use.  One of the times, I was going to grab something out of the kiln!  Luckily I had a spare set.  So I've replaced both bolts, with something a bit more dependable.


I love the Raku process, and the students really enjoy it as well.  My school hosted our Conference Art Show a couple years ago, and I had a Raku demonstration for an activity.  My students and I made little vases with the initials for the other schools stamped on them.  So each school had something to take home with them.  

The other instructors and students loved it.  


The only downside to Raku, it's the gateway process to other alternative firings.  There should be a support group...

In Topic: How Much Are You Willing To Pay For A Mug?

17 February 2017 - 09:32 AM

I would pay up to $50 for a mug I really liked.


I know there are plenty of people out there, who would be shocked at a mug costing that much, but I can appreciate what goes into making it.  So if I liked the size and style, I would have no problem paying out for it.

In Topic: How To Paint On A Vase

26 January 2017 - 09:30 AM

You cannot use underglaze over a glaze... Well you can, the results just aren't good...


If I were trying to replicate that, I would do a white underglaze base and add the top colors, also with underglaze, either pre-bisque, or post if I was concerned about the fragility of the pot itself.  I would use the underglazes very much like watercolor, to get the thin wash effects.  Then I'd clear glaze over the top.


Alternately, like Celia mentioned, it could be some type of overglaze or enamel, that was put on top of a white glaze for a third firing.