Jump to content


blacknapkins

Member Since 20 Aug 2012
Offline Last Active Jun 18 2013 06:59 PM
-----

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Troubleshooting a broken electric potter's wheel

13 June 2013 - 08:10 PM

No need to take a photo they look like these
http://www.interscho...p?items_id=8153
I do not know this wheel and my guess is your are on your own-have someone look at it who IS GOOD WITHE ELECTRICITY-.You should stay away as you may do more harm than good for it. Over riding the fuze with wire is what you do as a last resort to return from earth orbit(space -cadet) to get back home not fix a wheel.
Mark


I meant take a picture of the inside of the foot control for diagnosis

Is there a possibility at all that the motor is shot which is the source of the short?

In Topic: Troubleshooting a broken electric potter's wheel

13 June 2013 - 03:19 PM


Yesterday I plugged in my wheel, flipped the foot pedal switch to on, and depressed the pedal. I got a flicker of sound and maybe some rotation of the wheel but only briefly. Checked wall plug, extension cord, etc everything fine. The power cord was old and looked awful so I decided to replace that before I did any troubleshooting. Cord replaced, still doesn't work. So I try hard-wiring through each of two fuses to see if the light goes on. Sure enough, one of the fuses is shot (ceramic fuse, 10a@250v) so I decide that I will put a little bit of copper wire in there that I am guestimating will burn out at a capacity somewhere near but below it's rating and use it for the time being at lower speeds, drawing less power through the temp fuse. But it pops the copper wire instantly, so I go up in "guage" and it pops that too. It looks like for some reason the fuse is being made to bear tremendous loads of electricity when it shouldn't and I have no idea why this is occurring. Does anyone have any thoughts on what the trouble might be? Everything inside the foot petal box (this is entirely where all the electronics are, as opposed to, say, a Brent) looks very clean and there's no indication of a simple short caused by something bent, broken, or worn out.

Don't have a dime to my name and won't get a new one for a really long time if I don't fix this myself.

Halp?
Thanks

What Brand of wheel and model is this-This would ba a good thing for us to know so we can help.
Did the wheel ever work and how long has it been siting-and do you live where its humid and was whell outside???
You should use slow blow fuzes(find these at an electronics store not copper wire to short curcuit the fuze.

Mark



WELL. There's the hairy part. It's not going to be a known model, likely, to anyone. It's made by "G&L Industries" who basically was some smaller company, I gather, who welded up a small steel table and bolted a 3/4HP variable DC motor (which is why I say "like" a Brent). The bearings and belt drive on it are very nice! Anyway, I've been using it since feb but I'm a goof-around potter and am not putting it to work full-time. I work outside, yes, but under cover and it's not left overnight EVER. It was moved inside the other night by someone else and there was clay water all over the floor so I know it spilled. Maybe it spilled into the motor? It just doesn't look like it spilled into the motor (no obvious traces of clay water residue) and inside the foot pedal, where all the electronic parts are, indicates NO water damage that I can tell.

The rheostat is a good starting point but until I can get the thing seen by my pops, which might take quite a while, I won't be able to determine this myself. I don't even have a multimeter, ridiculously. I've always decided that electrical stuff should be off limits to me so long as it's working on "hot" components because I'm a space-cadet creative type.


I could snap a picture with my ipod I suppose(??)

In Topic: Midnight Black II from Seattle Pottery Supply— firing

05 February 2013 - 09:14 PM

That clay body is certified non toxic. Even if it has manganese it's safe to use. Just follow typical safety procedures to reduce dust.


Yes, it does have manganese in it and I also found some ancient (1994) pdf that said it was non-toxic on google. Sounds a little contradictory. I actually realized today (oops) that the label on the clas states clearly that it contains manganese and suggest wearing a respirator and gloves to minimize exposure.

What safety precautions do you recommend?

I think working on the wheel with a respirator and gloves would be absolutely horrible. In fact that's half the reason why I quit my job as a silversmith/goldsmith/casting shop.

In Topic: Midnight Black II from Seattle Pottery Supply— firing

04 February 2013 - 11:29 PM



Oh, and tell Seattle Pottery Supply that their cone range for that clay is misleading nonsense that is a big disservice to their customers.

Jim


Years ago they told me that "04-6" etc indicates first the ideal bisque temperature and second the maturation temp. I always just thought this was a standard way to label a clay body but people on here have been confused by it so it must be a Seattle Pottery thing.

Thanks everyone else for the information. It gives me a ballpark of expectation without having to worry with meltdown!! : )

I will post results in case anyone is interested : )


Actually, that would be a good way to label clay as long as it is made obvious that the 1st number is bisque and the 2nd is maturity. So, no, firing it to 6 will not melt it but just test it because, since it is a black clay, it may bloat at 6.

Jim


So, bloating sounds pretty obvious but I've never even heard of this before. I'm going to give them a ring tomorrow and find out if there's manganese in this and I will report back.

Thanks guys.

It feels great to be new to pottery. : )

In Topic: Midnight Black II from Seattle Pottery Supply— firing

04 February 2013 - 10:35 PM

Oh, and tell Seattle Pottery Supply that their cone range for that clay is misleading nonsense that is a big disservice to their customers.

Jim


Years ago they told me that "04-6" etc indicates first the ideal bisque temperature and second the maturation temp. I always just thought this was a standard way to label a clay body but people on here have been confused by it so it must be a Seattle Pottery thing.

Thanks everyone else for the information. It gives me a ballpark of expectation without having to worry with meltdown!! : )

I will post results in case anyone is interested : )