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Brian Reed

Member Since 14 Aug 2012
Offline Last Active Nov 20 2014 03:44 PM
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#67150 What Is The Best Book In Your Pottery Library?

Posted by Brian Reed on 02 October 2014 - 09:03 PM

Clay and Glazes, Rhodes.




#64733 Base Of Pots 'chipped Edge' After Glaze Firing - Why?

Posted by Brian Reed on 19 August 2014 - 03:37 PM

 

I do not use Kiln wash I simply brush a light dry coat of Alumina Oxide on my shelves and call it good.  No more chips on my large porcelain bowls.  I believe this happens during cooling where the pot cools at a different rate than the shelves while the pot has stuck slightly to the shelf. 


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#62621 Ready Made Celadon Glaze For High Fire- Gas ...like Coleman

Posted by Brian Reed on 17 July 2014 - 12:50 PM

I have seen posts about premixed glazes quite a bit lately.  Perhaps there were always questions, but I am noticing them more.  Linda my suggestion is to go and get Tom's book and then buy the dry materials and then mix your own.  It is really pretty easy once you get the steps down, and there are many videos on how people mix their own glazes.  If you are going to buy premixed dry glaze you will need to buy buckets, a respirator and a sieve.  To mix your own the only other tool you need is a scale, and many already have that. 

 

The cost will be about 10% what you would pay for dry mixed glazes.  I say give it a try and test.  Then after a few glaze batches you can experiment with a base glaze of your own and then the real fun begins.

 

Trust me!




#55396 Opinions On Pre-Mixed Dry Glazes?

Posted by Brian Reed on 25 March 2014 - 12:33 PM

When I started out on my own and left the fold of the classroom/co-op about 2 years ago I had a few rules that I was going to stick with.  They were just what I set out to do and one of them was never to use a pre-mixed glaze.  I wanted the experience of testing and learning.  It was good time spent with some successes and yes some failures, but in the end I have a set of glazes that are my own and I can repeat them easily whenever I want.  Again I am not knocking the pre-mixed glazes, it was just my choice and how I decided I would take my studio journey.

 

I have two small shelves of material (IKEA shelves), and a small 4'X2' table that I have my mixing.  I use 6 gallon buckets for mixing and I store them in 10 gallon covered tubs.  I use a triple beam balance for all weights, even small tests, and I sieve twice, one at 60 and one at 80. I have a glaze slop bucket that all tests go into and when I need an iron saturate glaze I use it (it is a pretty nice medium dark iron rich glaze that fits perfectly).  I test my slop with a test tile at every firing so I know how it is changing.

 

Sure I made a few mistakes in my initial ordering because I did not know the material, like buying 10lbs of chrome oxide.... it will last three lifetimes.  Such is life.




#55393 Icheon Master Video Series

Posted by Brian Reed on 25 March 2014 - 12:15 PM

The American Museum of Ceramic Art published some videos last year that are just stunning.  This one was my favorite, but you should look at the others.

 

https://www.youtube....ChySuqXA/videos

 

This one was my favorite, but you should look at the others.

 

https://www.youtube....bed/dDreqXD4MoI




#53590 Wholesale Crafts Dot Com

Posted by Brian Reed on 27 February 2014 - 08:32 PM

Those are some great tips, I am going to start working on a pricelist with thumbnails right away.  I also will have order sheets ready....and water. 

 

as for my best seller that is easy, small porcelain bowls with copper red interior and geladon exterior.  I sell other colors, but this seems to be the best seller.

 

IMG_5628.JPG


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#51890 What Kind Of Kiln Shelves To Use?

Posted by Brian Reed on 07 February 2014 - 10:14 AM

back to the original question.  I am sure people here will tell you I am wrong, but I would go to your clay supplier and ask them what they have that is cheap and on sale and get them at low a cost as possible.  I picked up many shelves from him that were odd balls and they are working fine.  then as you learn more spend the money on nicer shelves as they need replacing.  That is what I did and it is working out great.  sure shelves break and warp, but at 20-30  dollars a shelf no big loss.




#51356 Help On Ingredient Substitution Needed!

Posted by Brian Reed on 30 January 2014 - 10:32 AM

Spodumene is a sort of Feldspar at least that is what I have substituted it for in a Shino I was working with.  I wanted to try it with Lithium.

 

It is a good source of Li2O

 

It has Li2O, AlO3, SiO2


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#48644 12 Inch Club

Posted by Brian Reed on 26 December 2013 - 02:36 PM

I promised a blooper, and here it is.

 

http://youtu.be/_mBgqva1h80

 

This was attempt 4.  They all ended pretty much the same.  I took different approaches,

 

1.  make cylinder as narrow as possible.

2.  Make wide bottom and narrow top.

3.  No bottom on cylinder.

 

They all ended the same.




#48517 Potter/ceramicist: Pottery/ceramics?

Posted by Brian Reed on 23 December 2013 - 06:43 PM

I asked a similar question last year and got a varity of answers.  Now when I introduce myself I will say Potter.




#47722 So, She Came Into My Booth, And That's When The Trouble Started

Posted by Brian Reed on 12 December 2013 - 03:05 PM

I do not have any "rules" for people who own my work.  It may sound awful, but I will sell to a racist, a bigot, rich, poor, black, white, any nationality as long as they pay.  I am not a social activist, I am a potter who wants to sell. If they are wearing a gun, no problem, if they are loud, no problem, if they are quite and meek...again no problem.   I just want to sell. 

 

I know this has nothing to do with the original message, I have just read a few posts about not selling to a certain type of person.

 

As to the original post, I have never need in that situation, I have held things for a short period of time and every time they came back and purchased.  I suppose I will continue until I get burned.  I try to bring enough stuff that one single piece is not much of a worry.  When I do have this situation I hope I can handle it was well as you did.  Good Job!


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#46968 How To Actually Support Yourself

Posted by Brian Reed on 03 December 2013 - 11:06 AM

All the advice is really nice, and I suspect that I am not the only one on these forums that have the same struggles right now.  I hope others have gotten something out of this as much as I have.  Cheaper than a Therapist.

 

Especially a big thanks goes out to Mark who gave me a call and we talked for a good hour, sometimes hard advice and some validation is all we need to hear.

 

I will continue to follow the path I have started on, make as many pots as possible and attend as many shows as I can get to.  I want to open up a wholesale market which I am going to begin starting in 2014 and hope to have something established in 3 years (advice I received with planning from a local potter who has been successful with wholesale).  I believe that patience, hard work, and being as efficient and innovative as possible will get me there.

 

In the end if I cannot quit my day job at some point in the future I will always have Pottery as a "retirement job" which may be exactly what I am looking for.

 

Thanks again.


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#46909 New To Ceramics & Need Help With Kiln

Posted by Brian Reed on 01 December 2013 - 10:53 PM

Yes like Marcia said you can refire.  However I would speed up that bisque firing.  It should never take 10 hours on low.  My entire bisque to cone 06 is like 8 hours max.




#46602 Custom Stamp Source?

Posted by Brian Reed on 25 November 2013 - 03:04 PM

I have used 4clay.com in the past and it was a good stamp.  However it was about $100 for a 2X2 stamp for mugs.  I used it made the mugs and all is well.  I was looking for an alternative and asked another potter who they use.  I had a new custom mug order and I used the new place I was told about.  They made jus the rubber stamp head surface without any backing or handle.  The cost was less that $30 shipped and it is a nice stamp.  The company is a local business Masters Mark.  http://mastermark.com

 

I havr not bisque nor glaze fire the new mugs yet so the proof will be if the stamp was deep enough.  It was not as deep as the first one I had made.  We shall see.  Figured it was worth the price.

 

All others, like jetstamps, claystamps seem expensive to me.




#45976 Throwing Large Pots

Posted by Brian Reed on 17 November 2013 - 11:44 PM

I recently started throwing some bigger pots.  Not huge, but 20-30" tall.  I know of two methods; making multiple sections and attaching them together.  Then there is the coil method where you put a large coil and pull it up, then stack another coil and work your way up.  I have had the best luck with the first method of stacking multiple parts.  However I hand rolled my coils and think I would have better results with an extruder.

 

 

 

Here is a recent video of me making a large pot

 

 

 

Do you have any advice?