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Chris Throws Pots

Member Since 27 Jun 2012
Offline Last Active Apr 20 2017 11:46 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Looking For A Controlled Thick Drip Glaze

18 April 2017 - 03:06 PM

Howdy Lincoln. Welcome!


Controlled drips, huh...


What glazes are you currently using? All the drippy work I've ever made relied on heavy application of glaze, plenty of space for the drips to roll, and crossed fingers until unloading time. I work at ^6 and have been able to get most glazes to move with a heavy enough application. Sometimes they even move when I don't want them too! I'd start with what you already have and see how much control you can harness.


Bonus: For some drippy glaze eye candy check out work by Branan Mercer and Steph Galli.

In Topic: Cress E23 Not Shutting Off

18 April 2017 - 10:29 AM


Did the kiln ever shut off on its own? Or did you have to kill the breaker? I'm with Neil that it sounds like there there are issues with the relays, and glad to hear you're replacing these. I once had relays die in the "complete circuit" position. So rather than preventing any electricity from getting to the elements, they were constantly delivering power, even though the kiln's controller was showing IDLE. It was a pretty scary situation and the only way I could shut off power to the elements was to turn the kiln off at the breaker.

Good Luck!


In Topic: Glaze Melding

07 April 2017 - 09:17 AM

Glaze cannot touch the shelf. It will melt and fuse. You either need to keep the backside unglazed, or use stilts.


Stilts of all sizes: https://www.sheffiel...egory-s/112.htm


The glaze will release from the metal (nichrome) prongs, but it will stick to the ceramic base of the stilts, just as it will the shelf. Make sure your pieces are balanced and only in contact with the prongs. As mentioned earlier in the thread, you'll likely end up with little sharp prong marks. You can easily grind these down with a Silicon Carbide Dremel Attachment or with slightly more effort using a Stilt Mark Grinding Stone.

In Topic: Diy Wheelchair Accessible Pottery Wheel

30 March 2017 - 02:25 PM

I would suggest using a tabletop wheel such as a Shimpo Aspire or Speedball Artista (or maybe even a Brent IE though this one may be a bit too tall) placed on an ADA compliant/wheelchair accessible table. You might have to build the table to make sure it's sturdy enough and has the dimensions you need, but I imagine it'd be far less expensive than purchasing Brent/AMACO #16. Perhaps there's someone in your studio community who uses a wheelchair who could help you design something. 

In Topic: Glaze

27 March 2017 - 10:04 AM


I can't see the cracks you're referring to in the picture, but a typical cause of cracks developing in the glaze during cooling/after firing is crazing. Crazing is caused by improper fit between the glaze and the clay body. During the cooling, both the clay and glaze shrink. Crazing occurs when the glaze shrinks more than the clay body. Make sure your clay and glaze are both rated for maturity at the same cone. IE If you're using ^04 clay, use ^04 glaze; using ^6 clay, use ^6 glaze. If you're mixing your own glaze you could try to adjust the recipe for a better fit. If you're using a commercial glaze, maybe try a different product.