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Rebel_Rocker

Member Since 20 Jun 2012
Offline Last Active Aug 06 2014 01:41 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: applying iron oxide to greenware

30 July 2014 - 06:13 PM

 Not sure what temp it takes to 'fix' the oxide.

 

 Main problem with brushing it on is that it can be 'spotty'. That can be good or bad. One time I wanted it heavy so I put it on greenware, bisqued and then reapplied on the bisque. It did come out heavier than usual (on bisque only). My intent was a very metallic no glaze finish.

 

 This was just applied haevily to bisque:

teabowl_mordor_by_j_knez-d6glwvp.jpg

 

Putting it on greenware helps it fix some, but it can still be rubbed off. So the temp required for a full fix is higher than cone 6.

 

 This was put on bisque then rubbed off with sponge just to highlight:

jar_owl_small_brown_by_j_knez-d63em23.jp


In Topic: What Are You Working On?

28 July 2014 - 06:18 PM


 

I sort of would rather have thrown counterclockwise to start, now that I know it is what everybody else does.  But alas I pot in a vacuum & suffer the consequences.  I hope I can learn to throw counterclockwise like other people do, been thinking it would be easy... Now I'm not so sure... 

 

 I am right handed but throw left. It really doesn't matter which way you throw, if you are comfortable lefty then do it.

 

 I did it because of back issues, and leaning to the right was starting to kill me, leaning to the left balanced it out a lot.

 

 Luckily throwing is a pretty basic 'coordination effort'. It's not like writing where you need really fine hand control for letters. It might take a little while to fine tune but switching over isn't too tough.

 I only get confused now when I'm in the middle of throwing and a right hander asks for advice and I jump over to their wheel... I usually have to ball up a fresh pile of clay and throw it right first, then jump over to their wheel.

 

 I've even got to the point now where I will sometimes switch back to right handed mid pot if I get some wobble, it helps re-align the clay.

 

 I still trim right handed though, it's that fine hand control, easier to hold the tools correctly in my right hand and get the control I need.


In Topic: What Are You Working On?

27 July 2014 - 05:52 PM

@Isculpt,

 

 Wow that really is a teapot isn't it? Great work and details.


In Topic: What Are You Working On?

27 July 2014 - 05:38 PM

Nice handles Pres.

 

 A few things I'm working on currently:

 

 Tallest thrown form I've done yet. 10 lbs clay. 12 inches tall. Pretty happy with it, I think the wall thickness is very even right up to the rim. Still green. Still contemplating glazes.

 Jar_large_bisque_12.jpg

 

Tiki Jar. Black Clay, 8 inches tall. Thrown closed form and carved. Won't be glazed. Still green.

Jar_Tiki_black_8_bisque.jpg

 

 Flame Vase. Thrown in 2 pieces, the top vase and a bottom 'donut' double wall form. Combined and carved. Thinking shino with wax resist for good orange on flames and thick turquiose on top so it should end up pretty grey with a little bit of turq to contrast the shino nicely.

Vase_Flame_8.jpg


In Topic: Anyone Else Interested Or Know Anything About Firing Leopard Spot Shinos?

15 July 2014 - 07:27 PM


So, my thoughts are, a pot wrapped in styrofoam peanuts will have areas where the styrofoam is in direct contact with the pot ("contacted areas") and other "open areas" where the styrofoam doesn't actually touch the pot's surface. As the wash or glaze dries, soda ash evaporates/migrates to pot's surface in the "open areas", but no evaporation or surface migration of soda ash occurs in the "contacted areas" (i.e., where the styrofoam touches its acting like wax resist).  Carbon trapping will occur in the open areas where there is soda ash present.  Conversely, no carbon trapping happens in the "contact areas" because there is no evaporated soda ash on the pot's surface at these touch points. 

 

-SD

 Yes but the wax resist (I have done this, rubber bands are good for straight lines :)  ) makes the soda migrate to the sides.  You don't get carbon trap where the wax is (we get pretty good orange usually with a malcom davis).

 

 I think maybe the popcorn actually sucks moisture out where it is located (maybe sponges would work too). Thus causeing the opposite effect. More carbon trap in the spots that are touching.

 

 I'll have to try this out soon, am curious now.