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GMosko

Member Since 11 May 2012
Offline Last Active Dec 04 2014 01:01 PM
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#71225 How Do You "mark" Your Pot?

Posted by GMosko on 04 December 2014 - 10:07 AM

A gallery owner in Santa Fe once advised me to do this: sign my name--fast--legibility did not count. Then stamp a clear image of my name. Finally, stamp my chop. The chop is the traditional Japanese ancient "stick figures" characters with a border. This functions almost as a "certificate of authenticity."

 

 
 
 



#71220 How Do You "mark" Your Pot?

Posted by GMosko on 04 December 2014 - 09:50 AM

Sorry, my first try did not post the images. Trying again.

Gil

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#71217 How To Make Pattern Stamp

Posted by GMosko on 04 December 2014 - 09:08 AM

I have used a lot of castable silicone in my day. It is a two-part system, mixed 1 : 1. The raw ingredients are thick, like cold honey. Once they are weighed out, you mix well. This catches a lot of air bubbles, but if you are not fortunate enough to have a vacuum chamber, simply wait for a minute or two (for the larger bubbles to rise and pop), and then pour from high enough to create a very thin stream, which tends to pop the remaining bubbles.

To prepare a snakeskin, I would first glue it down (probably using 3M 77 glue spray) until you are confident it can't float up. Then cover the edges with moist clay, so no silicone can seep under the skin. This is hugely important! I normally build a shallow box around the model, to contain the seepage of the silicone. Believe me, over time, it will seep everywhere. To make a cheap box, I just use carefully cut strips of 1/4" foam core board (paper on both sides with foam in the middle), held in place with a hot glue gun. When the strips are mounted, go over all edges with another strip of hot glue. Finally, I give the entire inside of the box (especially the model) a spray of Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Spray as a release agent. When the clear spray is dry, you pour the silicone. 

After 24 hours or so, the silicone should have set into a good firm rubber. Peel it off the model, and you will have a perfect negative of the snake skin. A stamp model can then be made inside this rubber negative, using anything you want........from flexible latex, to plaster.

Look, I know this seems very involved, if you've never done it before. But once you get used to it, the results are so gratifying, you'll ask yourself why you even resisted! 

Anyone who wants to know details can feel free to email me at gmosko@ghvallry.net. My name is Gil Mosko, and thanks for reading.




#17009 A humbling insight.

Posted by GMosko on 11 May 2012 - 11:43 PM

I feel for you! There is no doubt that glazing is the most difficult part of the process. If you can buy a tiny test kiln, you can really go to town. But testing is honestly the best thing one can do to improve their knowledge and temper their perspective.

At the moment, I am enjoying applying a wax resist on top of the glaze, and when dry, using a wide hake to paint on a mixture of stain and water. If the fire is good, everything will melt together and harmonize.

Best of luck to you.

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