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timbo_heff

Member Since 24 Apr 2012
Offline Last Active Apr 18 2014 12:42 PM
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Topics I've Started

Great Video On African Forming And Firing : Wow!

15 February 2014 - 06:06 AM

Worth a watch !
 
http://youtu.be/52HKSwkI1hs

Flooded Glaze Bucket

28 October 2013 - 01:01 PM

So a bucket of Tenmoku I had outside took on some rain water.

The bucket had not moved in many months. Crystal clear water floating on top of the settled glaze materials.

I poured off the excessive water:

 

Did that change the glaze: ie are there chemical components in the water that never settle out that I have now just poured off ?

 

Thanks!

 


What's Happpening With This Glaze Chemically?

11 September 2013 - 05:58 AM

tn_gallery_12660_647_292029.jpg

Hi,

I have fired this glaze on a variet of clays and woodfired it: (same glaze on pots in my profile pict (longer all locust firing)

The backs are brown/amber probably like it would look in an electric or gas reduction but the face that gets ash (and more heat) turns into a nifty blue/green sometimes with amazing hare's fur effects.

So what is happening chemically on the ash face?

Is the ash adding silica and ergo diluting the ratio of the RIO ( as in a temoku iron reduction moving towards a celadon?

or is it adding oxides that are reacting?

Is behaving differently because of the additional heat on that side ?

 

.. and most importantly: how can I change this glaze to  behave like this all around the things, all the time?!? Less iron, more gerstley /gillespie ?

 

It's from John Britt's high fire glazes:

Custer Feldspar: 44.00 Grams spacer2.gifSilica: 12.80 Grams spacer2.gifWhiting: 17.70 Grams spacer2.gifBall Clay (OM-4): 6.10 Grams spacer2.gifRed Art Clay: 11.10 Grams spacer2.gifBone Ash: 2.00 Grams spacer2.gifTalc: 3.80 Grams spacer2.gifGerstley Borate: 2.50 Grams spacer2.gifRed Iron Oxide: 4.10 Grams

 

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Odd Old Paragon : Help me Arnold Howard !

25 June 2013 - 09:14 AM

Hi.
I was gifted a funny old Paragon front loader but I think it has the wrong plug on it: Pictures below
the plate says :
Model 1461124
240 volt Single phase
4100 watts
17 amps
Max Temp 2400
Serial #299141

It has an RTC controller
2 elements

The plug is a standard household plug.
I think this be wrong !

Questions: What is the right plug for this ?
If the circuit should be 1.25 x the draw: 17 amp x 1.25 = 21.25 or better breaker so a 6-30P would be the closest?
Can I put a 6-50 plug and run it on my dryer outlet or is that too much buffer over the draw for the breaker to do it's work as a safety feature?

Or do I presume that they changed the elements to make it a 120v kiln?
Is there a way to determine the voltage of the elements with a resistance / ohms test?

Any help would be much appreciated !
Thanks
Tim


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Wood Firing for Shino : Reduction phases

24 May 2013 - 10:19 AM

Greetings Kiln Masters !
I am about to fire a small (70 cu ft setting) anagama inspired tube kiln.
There seem to be as many different opinions as there are people but I thought I might as well pick the brains of you all who have lots more experience than I do.

Some details:
Shooting for cone 11/12 front 9/10 back
Mostly sheffield clays : Z, Wood Light, 42, T1, T3, 95400 white stoneware, some bMix. Some greenware so long campfire preheat.
4 day firing is the goal; with about 4 cords of mixed hardwoods.
Some unglazed in the front, shino, Mark's tenmoku and other miscellaneous glazes throughout.
Shino is "Gustin shino" : (not carbon trap.)

With the goal of maximizing the beauty of the shino:
Question 1) At what cone to do body reduction and for how long ?
Question 2) At what cone do you start glaze reduction and for how long?
Question 3) How long do you oxidize at the end?
Question 4) Do you down fire? and if so what 's your firing schedule for that?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. This crazy sport of wood firing seems more like alchemy than science so all opinions are welcome !
best
-tim.