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Member Since 03 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Nov 19 2014 02:48 AM

Topics I've Started

Best Way To Sand Bottoms Of Warped Pottery/sculpture

14 November 2014 - 10:16 AM

For reasons I don't understand, most of the 40 sculptures I've made in the past few months (that are headed for a craft show in less than a week!!) are warped.  I'll worry about the "why" later, but right now I need to figure out "how" to sand the bottoms to take out the slight warpage.  I have a belt sander that I can flip upside down; will that do the job with 80 grit belts?  Or is my booth gonna be full of rockin' sculptures???



Application Of Glaze To Nearly Vitrified Clay

05 November 2014 - 09:35 AM

I've read on CAD of potters firing their clay to mid-range maturity, and then applying a low-firing glaze and firing again. My raku clay has a firing range of cone 2-6, so I bisqued my sculpture to cone 05, then fired to cone 5 with Potter's Choice cone 5 glaze applied.  Now I want to glaze the interior of the sculpture with another lower-firing glaze, but I've noticed that all the low-firing 05 glazes I have on hand have the following instructions:  "Apply to matured cone 04 bisque".  


What do they mean by "matured 04 bisque"?  Can I not apply them to a clay that has been fired higher than 04?  I'm assuming that I don't want to use another cone 5 glaze, since I suppose it would affect the previously-applied glaze?  


I've made some vases and glazed their exteriors, but need to glaze interiors to water-proof them, so any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated.



Glazing 101 Question

30 October 2014 - 03:56 AM

I use underglazes on my sculptures, and I have no experience with glazes so this is a total newbie question.  I bought some Potters Choice glazes and combined the colors as suggested in the catalog (i.e. two coats of one color followed by two coats of another). I made test tiles, fired to cone 5, and loved the colors and reduction effects the glazes produced.   But I've just glazed some sculptures and the colors are noticeably different from the test tiles. I can live with the colors, but it made me wonder: Can you apply glaze over a fired glaze?   If so, what happens to the original glaze coats when I fire the pieces up to cone 5 again?  



Best Glue For Attaching Glazed Surface To Glazed Surface

27 October 2014 - 08:35 AM

I have seen several glues recommended here, but always for gluing a broken handle on, or something that doesn't involve a sealed, glazed surface.  I'd like to glue some crushed gemstone onto a glazed surface.  Is there a glue that will attach something to a glazed surface?


Help! Hand-Dug Clay Needs Additive For Strength

05 October 2014 - 10:14 AM

My husband recently dug clay from a clay hole that his tribe has used for years, and the clay vein was so smooth that the clay peeled off the walls of the clay hole.  He and other tribal members thought they'd found the best clay yet from that spot.  It's now been dried, screened, soaked and dried to workable consistency. It wedged up beautifully but they find that the clay has no strength!  A coil-built pot sags under its own early weight.  


His thought is to return to the clay hole and dig what he would consider poor clay, process it, and add it in.  But I wonder if anyone has a suggestion about an additive that would add significant strength without drastically changing the color of the clay, which is a deep brownish- grey color, which fires to a tan or yellow-brown.  This clay is slightly darker and more grey than the clay that is usually acquired from the hole, making us wonder what is missing.  The pots will be burnished, preheated to 500 degrees and fired on the ground in the traditional way. Any help is greatly appreciated, since the clay hole is inaccessible during hunting season, which has begun.  I've attached an image of a fired pot.  


Thanks, Jayne