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Member Since 03 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Nov 19 2014 02:48 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Best Way To Sand Bottoms Of Warped Pottery/sculpture

15 November 2014 - 09:50 PM

Mark, the sculptures did warp while drying, but I sanded the bottoms before bisquing until everything was perfect.  Then they came out of the kiln a mess!  I found that you're right about cone 5 -- it is a pain to sand, although I had some successes.


Thanks MMB for the mention of the Diamond blades.  I purchased my angle grinder from Harbor Freight - a favorite fun store where I find all kinds of great things for the studio.


Big Lou, it's possible that I'm not drying the work slowly enough.  I do dry them on a rack and I candle them for a long time (8-12 hours) before using the slow bisque setting on my kiln, and I frequently use sand.  I'll try compressing better the clay slabs that I use for bottoms. 


 And I don't know what "plucking" is!!



In Topic: Best Way To Sand Bottoms Of Warped Pottery/sculpture

14 November 2014 - 04:44 PM

Thanks, Mark. This is High water Raku clay fired to cone 5 (it has a firing range of 06-6). Today I bought some expensive "ceramic sanding belts“ which are supposed to be stronger and last longer. The"ceramic" has nothing to do with ceramics as we know it, just a stronger product. I've looked at local hardware stores and Michaels Crafts for those clear rubber bumpers but finally found them at Hobby Lobby. Maybe between 40 grit paper and bumpers, I'll make it to the show!

Any guesses as to why the work is suddenly warping? It has warped as low as cone 1 this time out.


In Topic: Application Of Glaze To Nearly Vitrified Clay

06 November 2014 - 01:15 AM

Good point, Chris. You may have just saved me from having to pay for someone's priceless antique.

In Topic: Application Of Glaze To Nearly Vitrified Clay

05 November 2014 - 12:53 PM

Thank you both. Beth, now I understand the 'why' of the seemingly arbitrary "fire to 04 bisque". I was going to fire the 05 glaze along with a bisque load with no consideration of the effect of organic matter burning out, so your tip regarding that got my attention. Chris, next time I will fire inside and out at the same time! Can water-tightness be achieved simply by firing to vitrification or is a glaze required? Or does that vary according to clay used?

Is there a rule of thumb that refiring glazed work to a lower temperature is less likely to have drastic effect on the existing glaze than firing a piece that was glazed at, say cone 5 all the way up to cone 5 again? Or are there no rules of thumb?!

And finally, can you recommend a book about this subject? I will never, at this stage of my life and with limited need for glazes, create my own glaze. So I don't need a book that goes into that aspect of glazing.....


In Topic: Glazing 101 Question

30 October 2014 - 12:36 PM

Thank you, Wyndham.  I took a one-day workshop on Potter's Choice glazes, but no one mentioned different firing schedules!   I will check with them, and that's a great idea about putting test tiles in with each firing.  It never would have occurred to me to constantly test the same glazes!  Jayne