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Member Since 03 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 10:46 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: How Best To Dry Reclaimed Dried Clay After It Has Been Processed Into Wet Clay

Today, 10:45 PM

I use those canvas bags that they give for freebies at so many functions.  They come in all sizes and have handles.  Hang outside and in a few days the clay just peels off the canvas.  I let it dry enough then  wedge and wedge and wedge...you know the drill.

I really like that idea...even if I did just donate a lot of my more interesting canvas bags to Goodwill, darn it!

In Topic: How Best To Dry Reclaimed Dried Clay After It Has Been Processed Into Wet Clay

Today, 10:43 PM

Here in the Pacific NW, there  are lots of times it is so cool and damp that things will never dry. I built a cabinet around a set of wire shelves, and place a dehumidifier and a circulating fan in it along with my clay items. Works very well but has to have a small heater as well if it gets below about 65 degrees in the cabinet for the dehumidifier to work, it works so well I have to keep a close eye on it so it does not over dry things. I also use it for drying fruit and vegtables etc.

THAT is a brilliant solution!  

In Topic: What Causes Smoke Patterns In A Foil Saggar?

Today, 12:37 PM

What a fantastic article, Marcia!  Instead of the trashcan and all the hassle of building a fire, I'm now planing to use my old kiln that sits on a covered porch.  I was planning to use root kill, copper carbonate and rock salt, but he writes:   "Aluminum foil starts to break up and become flaky between 1200°F (650°C) and1290°F (700°C). This means that most coloring oxides cannot be used because they have little effect below thesetemperatures. In addition, salts can attack the aluminumfoil, breaking it down."  May I ask what your favorite additions are?  So many of the things that are used in traditional western Native American firings are much more readily available in dry climates.  (Dried cow/horse/sheep dung?  Really?  When it rains every darned day here?!)


Thank you for sharing the article!  Jayne

In Topic: Stacking Ceramic Pieces For Totem Pole

26 August 2014 - 09:28 AM

Mug is right about avoiding liquid nails, especially on slick surfaces.  As a trim carpenter, I used it to attach heavy decorative moldings on the front of fine cabinetry and was surprised and embarrassed when it "let go" three years later. 

In Topic: How Best To Dry Reclaimed Dried Clay After It Has Been Processed Into Wet Clay

26 August 2014 - 09:23 AM

Thanks all.


That's a great idea, NanetteV - keeping the quantity manageable and having a tube filled with clay that I can place on my cement porch and wedge with my feet as it dries. (Now if I can just keep the dog from peeing on it to mark it as his!) 


Marcia, I love the idea of the plexiglass. Like High bridge Pottery, I'm thinking of incorporating plaster into the stackable wire boxes.  If I place plexiglass into the bottom of the wire box, how do I keep the plaster from sticking to the sides of the wood box frame so that I can remove the plaster and flip it over to the smooth side? 


Chris, I never thought of hardiboard or hardibacker.  I thought of that product as water resistant since it is used as a tile underlayment but since it is 90% cement, maybe I've got it wrong. And Neil did mention using a cement floor, which I no longer have, thanks to laying tile over my studio's uneven cement floor, but maybe I should give a dehumidifier another shot.  I bought a large 50-pint one last year, and found myself dumping water at least twice a day.  But the reason I returned it to the store was that it produced so much heat and noise that I just couldn't stand having it in my small studio.


Do I remember from previous posts that I need a special plaster to make a strong surface or can i use the plaster powder that comes in a tub from hobby stores? Recommended minimum thickness?