Jump to content


Member Since 04 Apr 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:42 AM

#95291 Community Challenge #3 - Results

Posted by Venicemud on 04 November 2015 - 07:54 PM

Yes, thanks Joel for the challenge idea and the energy to keep it moving.  Each challenge I vow to myself to make something to enter - but chicken out in the end.  Those who participate come up with such beautiful projects I'm abashed.  But it sure is fun looking at the great pieces braver souls offer to the rest of us.

#94086 Use Of Slip Verses Under Glaze

Posted by Venicemud on 12 October 2015 - 09:24 AM

I have used both homemade colored slips and Amaco Velvet underglazes in the Lana Wilson manner successfully. I believe that Lana Wilson does the same in the video you mentioned. Some underglazes are certainly opaque, probably not all.

#93429 Adding Color To Glaze

Posted by Venicemud on 29 September 2015 - 01:30 PM

I have made up a few test batches of this glaze, it can give very nice results but when thin it does give you a dark look. Also you are using a red clay that can be contributing to the darker appearance. Too thin a coat definitely tilts towards the dark side and you may have to try out higher percentages of the stains. One I made up with a Zinc Vanadium Blue required 15% stain. By the way, dark or not I think some of your results are very nice looking.

#72233 Special Ash Glaze..?

Posted by Venicemud on 21 December 2014 - 05:00 PM

I started a similar topic "Non Runny Ash Glaze" see below, and have tried three different glazes,  For two of them I used ashes sieved thru  40 mesh but for the third I used ashes put thru an 80 mesh sieve.  The trials with 40 mesh ashes were too granular for me but the 80 mesh ashes gave an acceptable result.  For the latter test I used a glaze recipe supplied by AtomicAxe, it was called SU Standing Bear (see "Non Runny Ash Glaze"), and it gave a nice smooth glossy.finish.   The two glazes used with the 40 mesh ashes would probably be more acceptable for me if I tried 80 mesh.  They were the Black Friday glaze that S. Dean referred you to; a matte finish, and a variation of C. Harris Tenmoku:  Nepheline Syenite 18.6, Gerstley Borate 8.5, Dolomite 9.3, Talc 9.3, Ball clay 18.6, Silica 28.2, Bone Ash 7.5.  I replaced the Red Iron Oxide, called for in the original recipe, with 12% Black Mason Stain (6600) and added 1% CMC to improve brushability. I will try to send photographs to the forum as soon as the mugs have finished cooling (I cheated and looked a little early).  Good luck, Joan Klotz.

#71973 Non Runny Ash Glaze

Posted by Venicemud on 16 December 2014 - 12:03 PM

Thanks Audra,  I'll make up a test batch of the SU Standing Bear glaze today.  Like Jeff Zamek's black lab, my husband was very fond of wearing black so I'll add 12% 6600 Mason stain.  It has been an unpleasantly busy 6 weeks since my husband passed with little time for clay.  I have managed to throw and bisque fire about 30 mugs, and the future looks clearer, so I'll test fire the three glazes I have decided to try very soon even tho my kiln will be largely empty.  Not ecologically sound, but none of my friends have stuff to add to the load.  Unless the results are totally embarrassing I'll post pictures, Joan Klotz.

#57555 Pottery Wheel Repair

Posted by Venicemud on 28 April 2014 - 10:38 PM

Thanks to all of you for your input.  Repairing my kiln was easy(ish) because its an L&L and they have Youtube videos that show you how, I don't think Laguna is that helpful.  Their nice ccustomer relations man did say that if I got the belt(s) he could talk me through it on the phone though - my worry was re my hand strength, if the belts had to be stretched or something, by hand, I'll give it a go and if all else fails I'll go play the helpless little old lady trick in front of one of my stalwart neighbors.  Joan

#57074 Portraits China Painting

Posted by Venicemud on 21 April 2014 - 08:53 AM

Marci Blattenberger is a very talented china painter and paints beautiful portraits.  In the past I have emailed her with questions and she has always responded generously and provided useful information.  Googling her name will bring up contact information including her website.  Marci spoke, with Paul Lewing at the NCECA conference in Seattle.


Joan (Venicemud)

#22279 Firing large beads

Posted by Venicemud on 16 September 2012 - 07:42 PM

I am making a garden decoration...large tubular beads slid on rods that will go into the ground or in large pots. Rods are 36-48" long. Beads range from 1 inch to 6 inches in length...made from ^5-6 stoneware clay. They are bisque fired. Question is: can I use my ^5-6 glazes to dip the beads, leaving the last 1/4" to stand them on in the kiln for firing (to ^6)...Then, paint the last 1/4" in a low fire glaze, and stand them on the end already glazed in the ^5-6 glaze and fire to ^06 for the final (and 3rd) firing? in other words, will the ^06 firing heat the ^5-6 glaze up enough to make the bead stick to the kiln shelf? Or do I just need to put each bead on a stilt? (Too many beads to buy bead racks.)

Thanks for any assistance or ideas! Sandi