Jump to content

Ginny C

Member Since 02 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Nov 21 2015 09:40 PM

Topics I've Started

Writing With Mayco's Designer Liner Over Glaze?

16 June 2015 - 09:55 PM

Can I write names on mugs with Mayco's Designer Liner over an opaque glaze once it's dry? 

Do I need to put clear glaze over the lettering?  Or over all? Does clear glaze over another glaze make them run?


Can I put the liner on a bisqued mug and then, when it's dry, apply a transparent glaze over it? Or a celadon? Will the letters show through?


Anyone know?






Glaze Applying Too Thickly And Not Drying

13 June 2015 - 03:02 PM

I just dipped a mug in the Laguna Robin's Egg glaze I mixed several months ago from dry...and added bentonite to.  Today the glaze seemed a bit too thick in the bucket so I added a  bit of water and several drops of Glaze Thinner (forget what brand it is) until it seemed okay.  (I've used this glaze many times before and never had any problems.)


Two hours ago I dipped a bisqued mug (Laguna B-Mix cone 5 clay bisqued to cone 04) The glaze has stayed wet in places and run some into thick drips. If it ever dries (it's now outside on top of my hot kiln), I will try to brush and scrape it back to an even thickness, but I'm afraid it's starting to crack in places.   I know I might have to wash it off and let the mug dry overnight, but in some places it looks fine.  (I'd sure like to make it work. This is a special mug for my artist son...i'm going to write "breathe" on the side, at his request!)


Why did the glaze do this?  What do I need to add to it? 


Thanks, folks!

And John, I tried to find info on this in your FAQ, but I cannot tell from the very abbreviated topics shown what each is really about.  Could you put the whole topic title in that list?

And when I google glaze problems in application I see only glaze defects that show up after firing.


Ginny Clark



Coloring B-Mix 5 Clay With Copper Carbonate

31 May 2015 - 08:27 PM

I'm experimenting with colored clays–and having fun! But I dumped some copper carbonate (just because I had some) in a small bucket of thick slip from my Laguna B-Mix 5 clay and used the immersion blender in it until it was smooth. Then spread it out on my plaster slab (with an oval depression in it to hold the liquid).  Two days later it is still too wet to take up to wedge.  Does copper carbonate do that??   Sorry that I can't give actual amounts...that's not the way I play in my studio!


Any thoughts or suggestions, those of you who use colored clays? Should I order some Mason stains for this instead?

Stoneware Mug Overheating In Microwave Months After Firing

12 April 2015 - 02:45 PM

My favorite mug, which has worked fine in the microwave for two years, suddenly gets too hot when re-heating coffee in the microwave. Especially the handle!  Now I believe my son who reported that same effect with two mugs I gave him several years ago.  Anyone know what's happening??


(Stoneware, commercial glazes, fired to cone 6.)



Re-Attaching Bisqued Pieces

10 March 2015 - 09:17 PM

This topic has been discussed many times, but I haven't seen a clear explanation of how to use glaze to do this.  A hand-built piece with a small thrown pedestal/foot supporting the center of the dish came apart. (I know I failed to used enough slip originally! :(

 Attached File  IMG_4537.JPG   124.43KB   3 downloads)  Attached File  IMG_4536.JPG   94.45KB   2 downloads


Would it work to mix some Elmer's glue with some glaze (I don't have any dry glaze material) and glaze fire it?


I would glaze both pieces separately and then use the mixture to attach them and set them right on the kiln shelf to dry before firing.  The weight of the dish should keep it in place on the circular foot, I would think.


Will the glaze adhere the two parts?  I'd like to get away without having to re-bisque it!


(B-Mix cone 5-6)