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Ginny C

Member Since 02 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 01:57 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Good Glazes For Breaking On Heavy Texture

Today, 01:34 PM

Let's see.  I fire to cone 5 or 6 in an electric kiln. Currently using Laguna's B-Mix cone five.  This glaze (Spectrum's Textured Kiwi Fruit) is also lovely on flat surfaces, where it is a subtle mixture of the green and blue, but on the deep texture, it is quite different. The outside of the pictured dish is entirely different.  I have used a lot of commercial glazes and I often layer them, but I haven't seen quite this distinct separating into several colors emphasizing the carved details.  Many of the reactive glazes do show more than one color, but not so precisely.   There...that's a lot of words, but I hope you see what I'm after.   Of course I could make lots of textured tiles and buy lots more glazes and try them all out...but I'd much rather ask for others to report their experiences here!!   :)   Thanks!

In Topic: Need Tips On Drying Racks & Procedures

16 February 2015 - 01:23 PM

Wow. Thanks, Old Lady! I will try this...and might try the technique of cutting around the patterned area after the material is impressed and still in place.   To use the styrofoam hemisphere as a drape mold (when I really want the fully round bottom, to add a thrown flared pedestal to), I will still need to remove the netting or doily before flipping the slab over and placing if on the mold...but I will add your method to my repertoire!  And cutting outside the impressed lines will probably limit any cracks there.


And Mark, the flared edge where the crack occurred was several inches beyond the drape mold, so I don't think the shrinkage caused it, other than the uneven drying.  I was pleasantly surprised that the clay lifted easily off the styrofoam mold when leather hard. No resist added, either!


What a great service this forum is—thank you all.

In Topic: Coating For Bottom Of Pots

15 February 2015 - 07:42 PM

Well, terra sig on the feet really helps, even though it shows up the slightest tiny marks.  It does, however, make them feel smoother. Of course you do that at the bone dry stage. And you still need to wax before glazing, But the smoothness from the burnished terra sig lasts through the glaze firing.

In Topic: What Is The Best Workshop Experience,incident Or Moment You Ever Had?

14 February 2015 - 10:05 PM

Oh! I do that all the time...I wonder what the connection is with a tiger? Maybe just the steady, poised, unwavering position.  Staring the clay down, sort of like a tiger before it pounces.

In Topic: Need Tips On Drying Racks & Procedures

14 February 2015 - 09:54 PM

My cracks come on the edges or rims, not ever in the center, even though I always cover them with thin plastic and tuck it in around the sides.  This happens especially on dishes made from a slab with incised patterns, such as from doilies or string nets pushed into the clay (and removed) before the slab is draped over a mold. The rims are gently ruffled in and out.  Sometimes a crack appears as the piece is drying, and it is inevitably at a stress point where an incised line gets close to (or at) the edge.  


I may need to have my edges thicker! I do try to have the slab an even thickness, but it often ends up thinner at the edges once it's draped and shaped.


I have just now tried putting thinned wax resist on the edge of one dish I made today, but how far in should the wax go?  1/4 inch? 1 inch?  And would vaseline be better than the wax?