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Ginny C

Member Since 02 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Mar 24 2015 04:15 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Re-Attaching Bisqued Pieces

16 March 2015 - 07:33 PM

Attached File  IMG_4562.jpg   154.63KB   0 downloadsAttached File  IMG_4563.jpg   198.68KB   0 downloadsGlaze is a great glue!!  Here's the result of just putting lots of glaze on both parts and setting it carefully on the top shelf.

 

 

 

 


In Topic: Re-Attaching Bisqued Pieces

13 March 2015 - 10:46 AM

The glue will burn out well before the glaze melts - possibly displacing the glaze a little as it boils away, if you glaze each part and set together, in your intended arrangement, the glaze will melt and fuse the two pieces as the glazes become part of each other. If you've ever seen a piece fused with a shelf you know that this should be ok for daily use.

 

Ahh.  So you mean I can skip the glue and just use the glaze on both parts, set them down carefully in the kiln so the dish is centered on the foot ring and fire away?  That sounds good to me.  I'll try that.  And I'll post results, probably next week.

 

I was about to mix up the paper clay stuff and I was considering adding everything to the mix: slip, APT-II, sodium silicate, the TP nicely broken down into a slurry, and maybe bentonite and sugar!  I've seen all those in various formulas, but never all together.  Next time I need a really good bisque repair done I might try that.  What do you experts think? (I know I'd need to then re-bisque fire it.)


In Topic: Good Glazes For Breaking On Heavy Texture

01 March 2015 - 01:34 PM

Let's see.  I fire to cone 5 or 6 in an electric kiln. Currently using Laguna's B-Mix cone five.  This glaze (Spectrum's Textured Kiwi Fruit) is also lovely on flat surfaces, where it is a subtle mixture of the green and blue, but on the deep texture, it is quite different. The outside of the pictured dish is entirely different.  I have used a lot of commercial glazes and I often layer them, but I haven't seen quite this distinct separating into several colors emphasizing the carved details.  Many of the reactive glazes do show more than one color, but not so precisely.   There...that's a lot of words, but I hope you see what I'm after.   Of course I could make lots of textured tiles and buy lots more glazes and try them all out...but I'd much rather ask for others to report their experiences here!!   :)   Thanks!


In Topic: Need Tips On Drying Racks & Procedures

16 February 2015 - 01:23 PM

Wow. Thanks, Old Lady! I will try this...and might try the technique of cutting around the patterned area after the material is impressed and still in place.   To use the styrofoam hemisphere as a drape mold (when I really want the fully round bottom, to add a thrown flared pedestal to), I will still need to remove the netting or doily before flipping the slab over and placing if on the mold...but I will add your method to my repertoire!  And cutting outside the impressed lines will probably limit any cracks there.

 

And Mark, the flared edge where the crack occurred was several inches beyond the drape mold, so I don't think the shrinkage caused it, other than the uneven drying.  I was pleasantly surprised that the clay lifted easily off the styrofoam mold when leather hard. No resist added, either!

 

What a great service this forum is—thank you all.


In Topic: Coating For Bottom Of Pots

15 February 2015 - 07:42 PM

Well, terra sig on the feet really helps, even though it shows up the slightest tiny marks.  It does, however, make them feel smoother. Of course you do that at the bone dry stage. And you still need to wax before glazing, But the smoothness from the burnished terra sig lasts through the glaze firing.