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perkolator

Member Since 08 Feb 2012
Offline Last Active Apr 16 2014 01:10 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Very Thick Mosses Type Of Glaze

16 April 2014 - 01:12 PM

to me, the glaze pictured in the first post looks more like an application method to achieve the look vs the actual glaze itself.  my guess is it was sprayed on, and that the glaze was either a matte or a crawl glaze with mason stain in it.  What cone are you looking for your glaze recipe?  I may have 1-2 recipes to share that may be able to achieve the desired effect.


In Topic: Non-Plastic Clay

16 April 2014 - 01:06 PM

Same clay bodys?  I'd think a commercial clay body would come pre-aged, so it's likely not going to improve much with time.  You may have to alter your technique as you would when working with something like a raku body vs porcelain.  I have never tried it, but some people have success by adding things to their throwing water - stuff like epsom salt solution, vinegar, magic water, gums, bentonites, etc etc so the material is slightly easier to work with.  If it ultimately doesn't work out for throwing, you could always use this clay body for hand building since plasticity is usually less important with these techniques.


In Topic: Clay Scraps Question...

16 April 2014 - 01:01 PM

I have also done the dry and wet reclaim methods, but I've pretty much adopted the system Pres is using, by keeping it in separate buckets w/bags and age it.  For throwing clay specifically, I like to NOT dry it out and keep it moist - this is to keep the bacteria and plasticity alive.  If you dry out the clay you basically lose the bacteria colony and it has to start over once it gets wet again = less plasticity.  Sure there is some immediate plasticity in most throwing clays because they include plasticizers, but compared to aged clay with bacteria excreting acetic acid there is a noticeable difference (at least to me). For sculpture clay it doesn't really matter how much plasticity the clay has because I'd be hand building.  

 

I think it comes down to how fast you want to use the reclaimed clay.  So just remember that dry clay absorbs water and slakes down the fastest.  Keeping it wet may take longer to absorb water, but it will tend to have more plasticity.

 

Good luck!


In Topic: What To Make?

15 April 2014 - 12:36 PM

since the majority of the suggestions are for you ton continue making functional objects, I'm going to go with an opposite suggestion and say you should make ceramic sculpture instead.


In Topic: Interior Teapot Is Still Wet, Spout Has Small Crack

10 April 2014 - 02:29 PM

re-glazing an item that's been fired close to maturation is sometimes tricky - especially with items that are thin without much clay mass.  people have many ways of glazing these pieces - some of them being:  heat up the work first, lots of gums in the glaze, corn syrup in the glaze, aquanet hair spray on the piece before glazing, spray the glaze on, heat gun/fan, etc etc.

 

my go-to answer for people who've "messed up" something on their work (although i would't consider this a mess up) is that they are lucky because now they have a chance to rebuild and make a better one because they know more about the process in making that item.  so with that said, i'd just fire the piece and appreciate it for what it is.  if you want a functional teapot, make another one and focus on that instead of fixing something else when you could be making more. good luck!