marcello Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Hello, I am testing an rabo glaze that requires a very thin layer of glaze. Il the layer is just a little thicker the glaze changes its aspect. I have some problem: -if i dip a cup in the glaze (even if its density is low) there are many areas in which the layer is thicker and the result is not good -if i spray the glaze on the cup it is very difficult to tell the correct thickness, because it has to be thin... The result is random... What can I do? I thought maybe I can weight the glaze to tell how much I should spray, but all cups are in different sizes, it seems very difficult to tell.... Thank you for your advises. Marcello Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaldridge Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Marcello, have you tried soaking the bisque in water before dipping the glaze? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PRankin Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Have you tried brushing it on? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcello Posted May 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Marcello, have you tried soaking the bisque in water before dipping the glaze? Yes but the result was not satifing... I think I will try weighting the glaze. Do you think I can use an airbrush to paint the cup, instead of using my paint gun? I havent' tryied brushing it.... I will make a test. Thanks Marcello Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Yes. Use an airbrush for applying a thin coat. Use a #5 Paashe nozzle or nose cone if you have one. Just sieve the glaze first to make sure there are no lumps. Air brushes are very sensitive to granules. Use the largest size you have. Badger airbrushes are also good for glazes. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 In case this provides any food for thought, I found a few observations from Lee Love (aka Lee In Mashiko). From: http://www.potters.org/subject104216.htm I learned how to apply them during my apprenticeship and havedescribe the method here previously. My teacher would thin hisIrabo glaze and apply the thinned glaze to the bottom half of the pot.Then, he applied a thicker application to the top, but it wasthinner than your usual glaze. He almost always got perfect runsstopping just before the foot.Instead of thinning the glaze for the bottom of the pot,I brush on the bottom part. Because the glaze moves, the brush marksdisappear. example: http://bp3.blogger.com/_fazefBgIw-Q/R3g-Wi5n6kI/AAAAAAAAAnU/uFnLhT1PqtM/s1600-h/IMG_1373.JPG more at: http://mashikopots.blogspot.co.uk/2007_12_01_archive.html ... here are some of the recipes Lee uses. from: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/woodkiln/hCafNxVbb0c Hamada's IraboWood Ash 4Amakusa (Arita porcelain Stone) 1.5Odo/Ocher 2 My Sander's Tamba glaze looks a lot like Hamda's Irabo Sander's Tamba Michigan Slip (I used Alberta) 60Wood Ash (unwashed) 40R.I.Ox 5 Also from https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/woodkiln/hCafNxVbb0c It might be possibe to substitute cornwall stone for amakusa ... Oops! I mean Dolomite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcello Posted May 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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