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Leveling Bowl Rim Without Using A Wheel


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any old school tricks?

 

i try to do it by eye on my banding wheel, but it never comes out right.

im thinking of putting the bowl rim side down on sandpaper and spinning by hand slowly.

 

any thoughts?

 

 

I have a set of pointer I've put on my wheel and I guess they could just as easily be used with a banding wheel. All it is is a stand made of wood with and piecce of wood bolted on and you can adjust it to point anywhere on the pot. Turning upside down on sandpaper should work also

 

 

Reqards,

Charles

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any old school tricks?

 

i try to do it by eye on my banding wheel, but it never comes out right.

im thinking of putting the bowl rim side down on sandpaper and spinning by hand slowly.

 

any thoughts?

 

 

I have used my girffin to hold the bowl, and if it is leather hard or more I use a hack saw blade held against the side and trim it even that way. If less than leather hard use a needle tool. If bisqued sand on sandpaper upside down.

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I do something of similar purpose, to reset a rim to make it more round, and I would use plastic cups, like party or normal size drink cups. If I were to need a similar tool for a deep bowl, then I would throw a low bowl or shallow bowl whose rim was maybe a few inches wider than the untrue bowl I would like to reset. That way as you get better and bowls may get bigger, you dont have to make another bowl/tool. I would just call it a centering chuck or maybe it would be the name of the technique that should be more technically fit.

 

I would then bisque the bowl and if it retains a sandy surface, sand as needed. Then to use it, invert it and set it down on a table and then hold your bowl upside down by the foot and then slowly and then more firmly press down the rim of the bowl onto the shallow bowl and it should do a decent job correcting any unroundness. I would suggest that if you did make this tool from clay that I would suggest a smooth clay for the shallow bowl so that you do not scratch or misaligned clay particles on the rim by doing it on a bowl that is gritty. Smooth and clean, decent sized, shallow bowl will allow to accomadate using it for various sized and shaped bowls with different depths, also helping you visually how to see if your warping your pots more or less than last use and will make you think of how to fixing it in whichever step it may be.

 

Warping can come from a lot of different minor difficulties at different stages of dryness. My bowls usually warp due to my lack of bat discipline with pots and in the end, I warp the bowl at the point of moving it off the wheelhead. Now even though some beginners use bats, they still warp their pieces because they are ignorant and may blame the bat for not doing its job. If it is warping when you take it off, then the thread should be more of a focus on fixing the initial source of warping instead of how to stop tripping over our untied shoes in a marathon., haha. I also have problem with not properly covering my bowls between thrown and being ready to be trimmed. My bowls are thrown to the absolute thinness to my abilities and capabilities but as your walls and rims become thinner, you can learn that a well compressed rim will help, and that means all the way through the throwing or forming stage. I also learned that the thinner the rims get, they get drier quicker compared to lower walls and they shrink faster due to less water to be evaporated.

 

Hope this helps and happy potting to all. Sometimes we think we have a problem to solve when sometimes we have to go back and look more clearly at our initial protocal of the equation.

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thanks guys.

great ideas.

 

and thank you centered, i appreciate the concern. i promise i will wear a mask!

 

i know it would be alot easier if i had a wheel. im working on that. i wouldnt even need to use a bowl mold.

 

if there isnt a tool out there already, there should be.

something like a banding wheel attached to a board or table with a horizontal wire that could be adjusted for height.

 

hmm.....

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