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Here Is What I Ordered - Never Mixed My Own Glaze Yet


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Ok after reading these forums forever I finally placed my order with us pigment. ( will drive to pick it up) 

(I couldn't find talc on the website?)

 

This is the list I gathered from all of the discussions about starting to mix glaze 

 

50# G200 Feldspar

50#Ferro frit 3134

50# Epk

50# silica (325 Mesh)

50# Whiting

10# Kona F4

10# Dolomite

5# Spodumene

5# Bentonite

5# Superpax

3# Ferro frit 3124

3# ferro frit 3110

 

Colorants include

5# Rutile (light)

1# cobalt carbonate

5# Red iron oxide (high purity i believe is the common one?)

2# crome Oxide

2# copper carbonate

 

These stains looked yummy to me so I added them on my own to the list:

1 # encapsulated red stain 50779

1# pink stain 6020

1# Green stain 6263

I fire ^6 oxidation so hopefully I didn't order something that I cannot use.  Do my amounts look right to you? I am not sure if I am ordering enough cobalt carbonate because i use a lot of blue oxide wash already and hope to make my own blue wash/underglaze. 

 

opps I forgot to add- I already have 50# of Gersley Borate and 35# Nepheline sy 

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HOORAY!  now you can have fun!

 

cobalt is very strong, anything over 2% is VERY blue.  it will last a long time.  adding tin oxide will pale the blue a little.  i do not see tin in your order but superpax will do it.  where and when did you get the gerstley borate?

 

what do you plan to do with the chrome?   make sure you get the msds on everything.

 

how lucky to be close to neil!

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Titanium dioxide is fun.

 

Black iron oxide is easier to deal with.

 

*Chrome oxide is a bit of a bugbear for me. I know there are nice results but I have avoided using it partially because our kiln was never vented and I just didn't want to deal with it flashing or leaching or ... I just had lots more stable/less toxic things to explore.

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Yay, Awesome!!! Let the fun begin, again... The only thing I can possibly say that may help you, when you make your test tiles make them big enough to see what the glaze will do... I made my first ones about 1/2'' wide by 3'' tall and they gave me a idea of what It looked like but bigger tiles like 3'' tall by 3'' wide seem to be better and easier to "read" ...

 

Happy for ya ...

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you have the essentials, a sieve and buckets, test tiles and a notebook, way to keep glaze out of your drains, containers with lids for all your new ingredients, scoops from walmart pet department and a scale. a 60 mesh sieve is good enough.  unless you want to be a superstar.  a soft rubber rib pushes ingredients through the sieve with MUCH less work than a brush.  no need to spend extra time making it, you want to use it. :)

 

if you need a lightweight container for weighing ingredients, the cover for a cake works great.  supermarket bakeries have stacks of them and if you ask nicely you will probably get a big one free.  the ones with simple shapes, not scallops work best.  mark the weight of the container on the outside and add that amount to each measurement.

 

don't forget a bunch of containers for glaze and a sharpie to put the name and date you make it.  a can of hairspray and a cotton ball will take the sharpie marks off if you need to.  ENJOY!

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One thing I do when mixing large amounts of glaze was to tare (compensate) the triple beam for the large container I put on the tray of the balance to hold more ingredients than would fit on the plate.  A plastic ice cream tub or other light container holds a lot, and I compensate for its weight by using a bit of wire solder on one of the tare knobs at the pointer end of the triple beam.  It's easier than remembering to add in the weight of the conntainer when measuring.

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I have a plastic scoop for my triple beam with a counter weight. I can mix 5 gallon buckets but sometimes have to do large quantities in repeatedly weighing if the scoop won't hold the amount. Not  problem. Just keep notes or a tally as you weigh out the ingredients.

Always add the dry ingredients to water. it is easier to mix. 

Marcia

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Be aware that the G200 listed on their website is actually G200HP. That's the high potassium product, different from the original G200. If you are using recipes based on the old G200, you may need to adjust for the higher flux in the G200HP or mix the G200HP 70:30 with the Minspar200/Kona F4. If you are using glaze calculation software, be sure to use the HP material in your calculations.

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Hi Rebekah, I am ready to begin mixing my own glazes as well, and you are giving me inspiration to just do it!  I actually took an introductory glaze mixing class at Baltimore Clayworks and it was incredibly helpful.  I have an electric kiln at my home that I've used to bisque, but I'm scared to glaze fire for some reason, thinking of all that I could do wrong.  I think it's like looking down off of a high dive board and not wanting to take that first step...

 

Okay, first step for today is to make some cone packs using cones 5, 6, and 7... here I go!

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Other handy hardware:

Measuring cups and spoons

Wooden spoons and rubber scrapers in lots of sizes.

wire whisk from a restaurant supply place (breaks up a settled glaze better than a drill with a paint mixer)

Cheap house paint brush works to push wet glaze through a sieve quite nicely

Red Solo cups hold a test batch of 100g

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