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New Guy Question On Dipping And Painting Glazes


Bioman

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I recently purchased a few jars of Mayco Foundations Opaque which I was told is a brushing glaze that requires three coats before firing.  It is pretty thick stuff. It is really costly.

 

I see recipe for dipping glazes that look pretty economical to make.  Yet looks thinner than the brushing glaze I purchased.  Yet when I look at how to videos they seem to imply a single dipping is adequate.

 

Are the differences between dipping and brushing glazes simply viscosity or is it an ingredient difference as well?  

 

If there is more to this than viscosity, are there recipe for brushing glazes?  

 

Please be patient with me as I am likely not even asking the correct questions.

 

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often brushing glazes have additives for "brusability"  

to answer one of your questions  yes there is more than viscosity involved

but there are exceptions  you can  brush your average bucket/dip glaze with out additives of changing viscoaity ,  but most brushers will alter.........

i have very limted experience with brushing glazes,  just two pint sized containters

 

ive gome on to making my own glazes and dipping exclusively

and for majority of time one dip will sufice

the crux is how long do you dip,  and how porous is your bisque ware

i occasionally will double dip a piece if im layering glazes

unless your work requires brushing most graduate to dipping

 

welcome to the forum

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I brush all my glazes. I once accidentally bought some glaze that was formulated for dipping and it was horrid to brush on. It makes sense the brushing glaze is thicker because your spreading it on. It will usually dry a bit slower than the dipping glaze to allow you time for your paint strokes to go on smoothly. The dipping glazes seem thinner, but the get sucked into the pot, dry faster and you end up with roughly the same amount of glaze on the piece either way.

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I use both types of glaze as I'm still a novice in this department. As a beginner, brush on glazes are simpler and more forgiving. They contain lots of gum to aid brushing. They are expensive, especially if you're doing any quantity of work, but you can thin them out a with water, and yes, you do need 3 coats. They don't end up looking this thick after firing.

Buying ready made powder glaze is your next step, but get samples first, to test with your preferred clay. You can then practise pouring, and dipping and decide what you like and what works before buying a larger quantity. I've got by for 2 years with a reliable transparent glaze and oxides and stains for colour effects. My work is mostly about pierced, carved and textured decoration, so this works pretty well for me. I've brushed some pieces with this dipping glaze, it does work but it's nowhere near as easy or forgiving as the bottles.

After 2 years of the above, I've just ventured into mixing my own glaze from recipes. Nothing fired yet. It's a precise process weighing out small quantities and requires focussed attention and careful record keeping during the testing phase. In an ideal world, doing ths with an experienced potter, using a known, successful recipe the first time, would be a good way to start.

Good luck!

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So, based on responses there do seem to be a lot of recipe for dipping glazes, but not specifically for the off the shelf type of brushing glazes.  Does anyone know if you can mix the two on a single piece.  I can see cost value in dipping and an advantage in brushing in the I could add specific embellishments that way.  Although don't know if compatibility would cause issues.

 

Celia, I assume the premixed powder glazes your referring to are meant to be hydrated then used as dipping, correct?

 

I have a nice balance scale sitting around and am overly adventurous and was intending to get some base ingredients and DIY it based on some recipe from a book I purchased from this website.

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Welcome to the forum ...

 

Yes you can Layer the 2 different typedsof glazes but your under coat may or may not float to the top... that will not be known until you test it ...

 

I would suggest you check out Kentucky Mudworks dry glazes, or somewhere close to home to buy from.. try premixed first.. Just add the correct amount of water and follow their directions...

 

Our next firing will have some test tiles in it to see how the Ky Bluegrass looks under and over coated with different brush on glazes..

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Yes Bioman - premixed and just add water. I've just found some notes I saved from this forum about adding gum to a dipping glaze to make it brushable. Have just ordered some of the gum from Amazon, (100g for £3.99), as sometimes my pieces aren't suitable for dipping, or I need to add some brushed elements. See below the note from Ajay. Hope this is helpful. Celia

CAD - Ajay

I made up a mixture of 5 grams of Tylose to 1 pint of water - I think you could easily use more Tylose, up to10 grams without any problems.

I used hot water and a balloon whisk, it will want to clump up if you don't work fast.

This will make a gloopy sort of syrup, just add some to your glaze and stir it in.

100ml of glaze should only need about 10ml of the mixture - it's difficult to be precise without knowing how thick/thin your glaze is already.

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Your welcome ... Good luck and may the kiln gods be in your favor...

 

 Anything other than premixed or brush commercial glazes I cant help you with.. Im new to dry glazes myself but I can tell you, your in the perfect place to learn.. Make sure when your ready to mix your own from scratch that you run your recipe' by some folks with valuable time in ceramics here on the forum.. its always a good idea to have their help, kind of like having all the Aces in the deck in your hand...

 

~Jim

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I would add that dipping glazes are a kind of powdery when they are dry. It's easier to rub the glaze and cross contaminate if your not careful. Iron oxide dipping glaze can be a mess if not handled well when you load the kiln.

 

The brushing glaze is a little more sealed off and durrable when it dries. It's harder to cross contaminate when you touch other glazed pottery.

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For brushing:

Add 2 tablespoons CMC Gum to a gallon of water. Add 1/4 teaspoon copper carbonate as a preservative, otherwise bacteria will eat up much of the gum within a few days. It will not affect the color of the glaze. Let it sit overnight, then blend with a hand blender. When making your glaze, substitute the gum solution for about 1/3 of the water.

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1/4 tsp copper carb won't change color?

Granted its super low percentage....

 

Super low percentage. If you used the whole gallon of gum solution to make a brushing batch you'd have 1/4 teaspoon, a few grams, in a 3 gallon batch of glaze. So figure 6,000 grams for the batch, about .75 grams of copper = 0.01% give or take.

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