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New Kiln Or Refit Old Kiln


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Hi , I thought I would get to wiring my old ( unused kiln). Didn't happen . Now tax refund is here again soo...

I really want to do this . I have a paragon a66 b that has just an infinite switch. I am not comfortable w just an infinite switch. So controllers are about $450 for a plug n play. Probably close to that for an Orton kiln sitter . A pid might run a lot less but I can't figure them out and I can't find an electrician who wants to wire it for me. So around $450 for a kiln that I don't even know if the elements are burnt out. I mean it looks great but what do I know.

Or I could sell the a66b and spend around $1000 for a smallish cone 10 kiln. I work small , and don't really want to do production right now. But then which cone 10 kiln ? I want porcelain, that is what blows my dress up. Please any help could at least get me thinking. Thanks jolie

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Hi Jolie, most people that fire electric kilns do not fire to cone 10.

 

Although many kilns are rated to cone 10 it wears out the elements a LOT faster and increases the firing time substantially unless you pop for high end (read expensive) elements and thicker bricks.

 

I have read consistently that there is no real benefit from firing oxidation to cone 10 to justify this expense. Cone 5,6 is pretty much the standard glaze firing in electric.

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I have an a66 that I use for testing, and the elements are not expensive or difficult to change.  I fire to Cone 8, using 130 porcelain from Standard, and I believe I can get many of the desirable effects of Cone 10.  The 130 is translucent at 8, for which it is designed, and should be satisfactory for you.

 

However, if I could do so in practical terms, I would fire higher.  It is easier to get beautiful glazes from fewer ingredients at 10, in my opinion.

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Hi thanks for the reply. When I left the post I started to feel silly about the whole new kiln thing. I wouldn't know how to pick one , cuz I don't have a clue what I am doing. The a66 b in in beautiful. Shape , so if it needs new elements or whatever I'll fix it up. Thank you for replying. Rayalrigde how do you like your kiln. Do you have a kiln sitter or infinite or controller? Any hints? Thanks again

Jolie

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What do the elements look like? Nice and even curve round the kiln or bunched up and wonky?

 

Have you looked at all the other electrics for obvious signs of degrading? Crunchy wires, burnt looking connections, melted plastic or lots of dust. Check all the connections and make sure nothing looks nasty.

 

Check the resistance of the elements to see how close they are to the specifications.

 

It doesn't look like it would be too hard to wire in as it is 15 amps if I am looking at the correct one. What do the electricians say?

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It has a kiln sitter and a 3 way switch.  Low supplies reduced voltage to both elements, med turns on one element at full power, high is both elements at full power.  It's a good little kiln, but difficult to fire down slowly.  I attempt down-firing by letting it drop on med and then turning it back up at intervals.  I use the kiln-sitter as a failsafe, with Cone 10 pyro bars, to prevent a disastrous over fire.

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Hi highbrdge, I will check the elements this afternoon( it's in a shed) , the brick is perfect, doesn't look used. I can't see any wiring , and no electrician was interested in messing w it. My husband does the wiring , but he hasn't pried anything open. I'll go poking a bit and get back to you.

Hi rayaldridge, I don't have a kiln sitter . I'm not comfortable just doing it on the infinite switch - I was going to get a Orton free standing controller, that should work right? Thanks jolie

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Keep the little kiln. Replace the elements if necessary and get an external digital controller. If you ever move up to a bigger kiln, this little one will be great for tests and small batches. I've got a little Paragon like that hooked up to an Orton Auto Fire controller and I use it all the time, in addition to my big kilns.

 

Fire to cone 6. There's absolutely no need to work at cone 10. You'll just wear out your kiln faster. There are lots of great cone 6 porcelain bodies and glazes out there.

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They probably won't look inside the kiln but wiring in a 30amp breaker is easy money for them.

 

I have never wired in a programer so I don't know how hard it is. If the bricks don't look that bad then hopefully it hasn't been fired much. Sometimes kilns are bought then sit around for years doing nothing.

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Just took another look : the bricks are perfect cream color. The top has some brick damage that is minor, color the same for damaged spot. The wire is very had to get a look at it is so well recessed. Looks very uniform, as opposed to a little Jen ken kiln where the the wire in the elements is not totally uniform.mthe metal is the color of galvanized metal. I took photos but I do not know how to make them small enough from my phone. Tried to look at wiring ?!? Don't know enough plus can't get in there, but I think this kiln is unused, or little used. :)

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In addition to how the elements look, with the kiln unplugged (or power shut off from a duck box), run your finger over the elements. The smoother they feel, the better their condition. Roughness comes with use. If they feel like coarse sandpaper and they're leaning over, bunching up, etc., it's probably more than time to replace. Good tip above about checking for corrosion in the control box.

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Two reasons for no infinite switch is that I work full time,both day and night(I am a server in a restaurant) I have w fourteen year old daughter. So if Mars and Jupiter have to align to fire a seven hour program, or I have to be there to mess with the last hour, I will end up doing very little. I love color,so all this is to get to the color part. I just know the easier I make it the more likely I will pursue.

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I just tried to get my finger in where the elements are , no finger fits , too narrow.

I looked into the cheaper way with a pid controller: they are made In China w instruction manuals that reflect that, so I tried to hire an electrician, it is specialized apparent and the couple in town flat turned me down. Anyway I was more worked about used kiln can of worms , feeling better about that 😃thanks for all your help , I now have 27 questions about how to procede

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It would be this one I think : http://www.clay-king.com/kilns/kiln_parts/11735.htm

But I was thinking of going with this one, because it is cheaper and I am a newbie:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Orton-controller-for-large-ceramic-pottery-glass-kilns-/151554114920?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item2349544568

 

What do you think? The rampmaster is sweeter but the Orton is pretty spiffy too, and for me a substantial investment.

We will be pluging the kiln in later this week and if it fires up ok I will be purchasing the controller. Then you will be hearing from me as to how to set up! Thanks again jolie

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Hold the phone I just saw the unit that goes where the kiln sitter goes. I have never seen one of those before! Can anyone testify? Would it be safer? It is cheaper. I could get a s thermocouple instead ( do I need that) . Good grief choices are not my strong point. Some one please write about this ? Thanks Neil

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Neil, thanks much.  I don't mean to hijack Jolie's thread, but I have a manual Olympic 2327h that I would like to automate.  The NEMA plug is 14-50p on my kiln and the Rampmaster shows a 6-50 configuration for that amperage range.  Can you get that controller with a different configuration?

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It would be this one I think : http://www.clay-king.com/kilns/kiln_parts/11735.htm

But I was thinking of going with this one, because it is cheaper and I am a newbie:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Orton-controller-for-large-ceramic-pottery-glass-kilns-/151554114920?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item2349544568

 

What do you think? The rampmaster is sweeter but the Orton is pretty spiffy too, and for me a substantial investment.

We will be pluging the kiln in later this week and if it fires up ok I will be purchasing the controller. Then you will be hearing from me as to how to set up! Thanks again jolie

 

The Rampmaster is a better controller, well worth the extra $30.

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