hershey8 Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 I have several bisqued pots made from a brick colored ^6 body. I signed them, but my sig is not showing up. I thought I'd just paint my name on the bottom, but with what? I've read that just an oxide may chip off later. I have a variety of mason stains, and some Titanium oxide. What can I sign with that won't come off? Whatever it is, it needs to be light in color, or just white. I guess I could use a glaze and stand the pieces off with those tripod things, but that sounds a little iffy. thanks, ja ps- oh yeah, forgot to mention that I spray my glaze, which means that I wax resist the entire bottom of my pots. Hmmm. So this presents a new problem. Sign with a wash, and then wax resist over it. Got to rethink this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 White underglaze. Or black underglaze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavy Fire Studios Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Hey, unofficial underglaze queen here! For that, I would suggest Mayco's Stroke 'n Coat "Snow White." The colorants in that underglaze are thick, and contrary to bciske's broad reply, not all white underglaze (or black, for that matter!) is remotely the same. Some whites are really crap and won't show at all. However, the one I mentioned works best! If you ever need a delicious black underglaze, get Clay Art of Tacoma's "Baltic Black." It's pricey ($11 for 4oz), but worth every penny--it's bar-none the best black I've ever tried! Bold as thick india ink and doesn't bleed. If you have any underglaze questions, I'll be happy to help! They're my primary surface decoration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LorrieMud Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 When I used to throw in a very dark clay (almost black) I would keep a bowl of white slip beside the wheel and after trimming would take a brush and stroke it across the bottom- then use a pencil to carve a signature through that. Another great white underglaze to use is Gare's Polar Bear- one coat shows up well against any dark color--and they also sell these un-cloggable writer bottles so you could just keep that handy and nearby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 Cobalt and iron wash will probably work probably work on this clay body. I would use a wash/stain as you have bisqueware. If it were green, I would swipe with white slip, or just sign into the clay. . . incise. The cobalt and iron, with a little flux will be almost shiny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerdry Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 LorrieMud, would you expound upon the above mentioned un-cloggable writers bottles please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted December 26, 2014 Report Share Posted December 26, 2014 A quick google of "gare writers bottle" found this: http://www.cromartiehobbycraft.co.uk/Catalogue/Accessories/Studio-Accessories/GARE-FUN-WRITERS-CH6410#.VJ01dsis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blayne knox Posted December 26, 2014 Report Share Posted December 26, 2014 I always use a black or white under glaze, depending on clay, before bisc. I also add a number to keep track of surface process, glaze ext. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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