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More Pit Fire Questions...


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Okay...

 

I am seeing a LOT of droolworthy pit-fired ceramics all over Google, and my little rodent brain is starting to get its gears turning. I have a few questions that are probably on this forum about it, but I'd bet $100 one of them is not. :D

 

1. I read that round forms like pots do best in pit firing. I have a guinea pig series in mind, and piggies are basically an eggplant with shrimpy legs and funny little elephant ears. What precautions should I take to ensure the small bits won't break off?

 

2. Is it true you can only use stoneware because of that "open" thingy (you know what I'm talking about, lol). :D

 

3. Would a metal spoon work for burnishing in place of a polished rock?

 

4. How thick should I make the walls?

 

5. Cover with dirt or sand--personal preference? How do I know when to do it?

 

6. Would my rabbits' dirty (but dried) litter box pine shavings (with lots of poo and pee with a pretty high calcium content) work for the combustable filling stuff, along with twigs?

 

It is too dang cold to even consider attempting this until late spring, but I'm getting that creative itch in my fingers...

Maybe I have a fungus. >.<

 

Any tips would be of great, great help!

 

Oh, are pit-fired ceramics dry-food safe?

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There's no guaranteed way to protect the tiny bits, in a pit firing.  The wares and fuel can shift around, causing things to break.  It's best to make things not stick out too much.

 

Almost any clay will work for pit firing.  I've used low fire, that was bisqued first.  Stoneware, or Raku clay might be recommend, simply because the grog they contain, helps with thermal shock.  

 

Both things you mentioned will work great for burnishing.  I'm told that that finishing with a piece of thin plastic bag works well too.

 

In regards to thickness, I wouldn't go tea cup thin, but they don't need to be super thick, by any means.

 

When I pit fired, I didn't cover anything with dirt.  I used sheets of thin steel, to cover the pit.

 

My guess is the bunny waste will work, but having some wood or saw dust will help get the firing going.  The poo will be more for the smoke effects.

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The low fire clay I have is micaceous redart; do you think that will work okay? What do you think about adding slip to the surface? Man, I am really jonesing to get this going!! ^_^ Do you think that if I only put ware on the bottom, the wee bits might stand a better chance of survival? I'm not really sure how to load a pit...I just assumed putting everything on the bottom, hehe!

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I have pit fired all of once, but we did use terra sig as decoration, and the base of it was mostly red art. Turned out pretty good. And if temperatures are within 10 degrees either side of freezing, what would hold you back from firing sooner? Close fitting layers and a hat, and you're good to go.

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I think stoneware clay would work if you were to condition

The clay for fireing outside. Maybe add one cup of powdered poo

and two or three cups quartz sand. Thin round shallow bowls are

the easiest. You shouldn't try animorphic guinea effigy's

without bisquing first. Simple shapes are the best to

begin with if planning to fire greenware.

 

Pits are modern and should only be used for bisqued wares.

 

Alter temper size and amounts to compensate for wind and

cold weather.

 

With the possibility of exhibiting in the Art Spirit Gallery

I think that I would concentrate on your strong points now

and take time to learn something new later.

 

Alabama

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I personally got tired of pit firing. It is beautifully random and also rewarding for the work involved. Yet the limitations of colorants kinda got me bored. Burnishing isnt absolutely necessary. Ive enjoyed pots colored by the flames and then coated in acrylic spray brings out deeper tones like the pot was wet. Youll see the colors more vibrantly when cleaning with water but once dry some of the lighter flashings wont be visibly, thats where the acrylic comes in. I have had very little breakage doing pit fires and thats with making the whole stack, tossing gasoline, and fire away. Yet I have used a white stone ware primarily by Highwater. Most were slip cast by this stone ware, not true slip, just made a slurry and defloced then poured. Micaceous red clay is very lovely. I have used natural GA clay which is loaded with mica. Mica though looses its luster in higher fire, but for pit fire you stay low fire to keep the clay porous to accept better coloring.

 

I live in NE Georgia and have gotten good results during winter. Zone 8/9. I had a small dug pit and I would bury the pots on top of at least 6 inches of saw dust/salt/copper carb. Then continue with the saw dust covering then layer after layer make the materials bigger and bigger till it was about 2 - 3 feet about the hole. I would continue to add wood (lightly) as it burned down till ground level, mind you the hole was about 2-3 feet down so the fire was still good and strong. I considered the amount of coal that results from a typical fire and continued to add wood to make it good and hot but also to leave a nicely large coal bed in the end that almost covered the pots. Once I figured it was just about done and low enough I covered with a piece of tin.

 

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That was one of my first ones. ALways make sure there is enough air flow but not too much. You want a nice HOT but slow burning finish. The wind blew in the direction of where the rock was missing and it was just enough to keep things going. One thing I will say is give it a day or two before digging it all up. You will be amazed at just how long ashes will stay hot enough to burn you. Not to mention the pots retaining the heat. I ruined a pot once by pulling them up too early and melted a big black rubber thumb mark from one of my gloves. One of my best, which isnt the best out there, but I was very pleased was this guy. Just Salt/Copper carb/ saw dust/ wood/ and a small amount of cow manure.

 

pNZH9y.png

 

One thing to keep in mind is that some potters accomplish great pit fire flashings by pitfiring then refiring in a kiln to burn off some of the colors then pit fire again. Ive never tried it. Believe it or not that one has been glossed with acrylic and has held a plant for the past 5 or so years in a sunny room and never lost its colorings. Some say the reds will fade in the sun. I left a pot on a pole, uncoated in the sun for over a year and no signs of color loss. Roll with the punches and give pit firing a try. Im glad I did but other avenues opened up for me. I still consider it from time to time because where I live I can access tons of free wood etc to accomplish everything.

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Ooh! What about that tinfoil and clay coating trick in the Webber Grill? Lemme see if I can find a link...http://mobile.ceramicartsdaily.org/firing-techniques/grilling-season/

 

Here.

 

A good wander through some alleyways in the right neighbourhood will probably find you a grill for free. The size may not be great for large sculpture, but maybe enough to get some small tests (and the creative juices!) going. It might tide you over till spring when a proper pit can be dug.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pit Firing is a blast, it has been our best selling in our work.  We have used just about any type of clay, but currently like our raku/stoneware cross we had formulated.  The little protrusions can be protected somewhat by wrapping them in layers of newsprint, corn husks, banana peels, coffee filters, etc. Just be careful of the placement of pieces and which way they are pointing. Thickness is up to you, I agree with Benzine not extremely thin or thick. We have found consistent thickness of the piece has the best survival rate.  All of our pots are terra sigg'd, must faster than burnishing with stone or spoon, We do not cover our pit, just leave it as an open burn, I have not noticed a difference from when I used to cover it.  I think the covering helped in the traditional sense to complete the firing, but ours are bisqued 1st and the pit firing is for decoration only.  Yes by all means what til it warms up a bit, I don't fire from Nov-April unless the weather is abnormal.  here are a photo from a firing last year.

 

Chad

 

post-5885-0-38748600-1420207998_thumb.jpg

 

post-5885-0-38748600-1420207998_thumb.jpg

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Hey,

Last year I met a potter from up north who makes clay pipes and

primitive fires them to replenish her inventory over night.

After they are fired she throws small branches of green pine

needles on them and they have flashes on reds and lavendars.

The clay body is a store bought grey earthenware. I would think

that the vessels should be between 800 and 1000 degrees when the

pine needles are thrown on top.

 

Alabama

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