vikkilynn Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hello everyone, thank you all for being such great contributors. I learn a lot reading here and I hope you can help me figure out how this look is achieved. I like very much the glaze look and how it is seperate from the lines of the desgign and the design lines are dark, like they were outined. I think both the plate and the plant stakes were done on red clay. the bird tile is done with raku and a waxed design, per the description but I see no evidence of raku in the other work. I own a plate by the second artist and it is not raku for sure. any ideas would be great. I would love to do this on a bowl. thanks so much for your ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hmmmm.... I don't have the experience, that some here do. But the black lines look to be unglazed portions, that may have been achieved by putting a resist on said lines. Also, the clay body looks blackened, and in conjunction with the large amount of crazing on the glazes, it almost looks Raku. Some of the glazes seem a little bright and "clean" for Raku, but it's possible. Some of the low fire glazes I use for Raku, aren't really affected by the reduction, and it's usually the bright ones like yellow, orange, red and green. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 vikkilyn; The evidence of raku on the flowers are the black lines between the colours. This can be a achieved in one of two ways; 1. Wax all the lines in between, then use commercial colours for the decoration. Then raku. No evidence of crackle in the glazes, though. 2. Use a black clay body, wax lines, glaze with commercial glazes, fire in an electric kiln. The tile at the bottom is obviously raku. The plate-I don't know. No crackle like you would get with raku. TJR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vikkilynn Posted November 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 thanks for the quick info. yes for sure the bird tile is raku. I have a fellow potter who will do raku for me so I will try the method that way. I will also try with wax resist and low fire in electric thanks for the ideas. the plate I have always marveled at, it is not raku for sure. judy does beautiful work her glazes are smooth, bright and cover perfectly. here is her website. http://judymillerdesign.com/ceramics.htm the flower stakes I just now found a link to their mother site they do commercial tiles mostly, wall tiles, tables and such. here is the etsy site with the flower stakes. https://www.etsy.com/shop/GVEGA?section_id=13922291&ref=shopsection_leftnav_3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Those are pretty much all the techniques/ processes, I could think to suggest too TJR. If they are not Raku, I think a black body, with resist lines, is the best solution. Someone posted a similar topic months back, asking about the process. I believe Marcia provided some great information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vikkilynn Posted November 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 The technique is called Cuerda Seca meaning Dry cord.. It comes from Spain and is traditional technique. It is an oily balm with oxide. You can buy colored wax from various suppliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surubee Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Another way to achieve the look of the black lines on the flowers is to put black underglaze on the pieces after they are bisque fired, then wipe it off with a damp sponge, leaving black residue in the lines - then glaze over that. The black areas remain much darker than the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vikkilynn Posted November 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 wow thanks you guys are awesome! Cuerda Seca what beautiful work, I will try all. thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 That look might be achievable with majolica and over glaze colours with black lines between. The base glaze doesn't flow a lot, and stays where you put it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavy Fire Studios Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 You might enjoy Mexican talavera pottery/sculpture as well, if you are into bright colors and dark lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Here is another tile technique that Marcia might be able to help with the name. 1. You use a slip trailer and lay down your pattern of raised lines. 2. You fill in the spaces with runny glazes. 3. This might be based on a stained glass technique where the dark lines are lead caning and the bright ares are glass. TJR. I've seen the technique in books, but don't know the name of it. T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 TJR I think the name you are after is tube lining, as famously used by Moorcroft. See 1:30 into Many old-time tiles used "false tube lining" where the lines were formed as the tiles were pressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 The "Stained Glass" look, might be something I'll have to try. If I wanted to go the dark clay body route, would black iron oxide, be a good additive? Would that lower the firing temperature? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Another way to achieve the look of the plate is to put black underglaze on your red claybody and bisque it. Then apply colored underglazes or glazes to do the artwork and scraffito to outline the artwork and expose the black underglaze beneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S. Dean Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 I've not used these, but here's a link to some colored wax resists. http://www.theceramicshop.com/store/category/14/226/Wax-Resist/ -SD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 TJR, It is called tube lining. Charlotte Rhead or Reed was doing that in England. It became a well practiced technique of the Arts and Crafts movement. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 TJR, It is called tube lining. Charlotte Rhead or Reed was doing that in England. It became a well practiced technique of the Arts and Crafts movement. Marcia The name that came to mind was caning. Or cane lines. You are a wealth of knowledge Marcia. Thanks. TJR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vikkilynn Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 I have been looking into Cuerda Seca and can not find much info on what type of glaze they use. there is no how to book available that I can find. a few youtube clips but none really say what type of glaze they use. I did find some commercial glaze made especially for CS from Duncan (?) it was cone 06 and had about 8 colors. I am wondering if I can use any cone 6 glaze? you guys really are a wonderful bunch! thanks vikki Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 You need a glaze that won't run. One with high viscosity..like majolica. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
florence w Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Moorcroft Pottery Wow! Thanks so much for sharing PeterH. This truly makes my heart beat faster... I do both stained glass and pottery and I do believe I've just found a new direction! More information about Moorcroft Pottery from start to finish can be found on YouTube at: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Peter H Great video, I always enjoy those very much. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vikkilynn Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Thank you all, I learn so much here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Marcia, here's another. Cuerda Seca - esp. applying glaze from about 3:20 and the brush used http://www.spainwebtv.tv/index.php/infoyeventos/consumo/player/Intervenciones/DECORACI%C3%93N-DE-AZULEJOS-A-LA-CUERDA-SECA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rae Reich Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Viscosity is less of a problem if you're working flatter (er, firing the surface in a horizontal position), like a tile or plate or shoulder of a pot. For those recessed outlines, I would mix a black Mason stain with water-based wax resist. Make some tests, but don't hold back on the concentration. Apply with a brush or slip trailer. There are some nice fine-point steel-tipped ones of various sizes at Aftosa that I've used for black slip (Amaco) outlines on tiles for a similar effect. Not sure how easy those steel tips would be to clean the wax from, maybe nuke in a cup of hot water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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