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Making Very Fine Lines!


maya

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I am fairly new to pottery and often find my thoughts and imagination outrun my knowledge and skills......my thoughts are currently taking me to very fine lines.  For example, a head-full of strands of hair.

 

I tried making a very fine line with an applicator, using underglaze, but after firing the glaze "settled" a bit and while it didn't exactly run, the lines were no longer pencil thin as when I applied them.

 

So I did a little research online and saw two products that could possibly do the trick:  choxils like a chalk, with the density of a pencil. According to the product description, these "pencils" can be sharpened in traditional pencil sharpeners.  The other choice are potter's pens.

 

Has anyone used either of these products to make very fine lines and been pleased?  Or, are there techniques / products out there that I don't even know about yet??

 

BTW, I bisque to cone 06 and fire to cone 5 with a brownish speckly clay.

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Along the lines (ugh) of what Chris was saying, you can do as Lorna Meaden does and scratch the lines into leather hard ware, then underglaze, let dry and scrape back to expose individual lines, then bisque and glaze as usual.  If you look at Google images of her work you should be able to see the general idea, but also that the underglaze tends to excape into the covering glaze.  She soda fires, which adds the tendency to pull the underglaze into the soda glaze matrix, and at cone 6 oxidation that may be less of a concern.

 

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1280&bih=867&q=lorna+meaden+pottery&oq=lorna+meaden&gs_l=img.1.3.0l4j0i24l2.2356.5162.0.10960.12.11.0.1.1.0.78.631.11.11.0....0...1ac.1.58.img..0.12.623.H9upBFNyYjw

 

John

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Continue to use underglazes with an applicator if you're more comfortable with that application method and like the result. First try bisquing the underglazed work again prior to glazing. If that doesn't help at all, fix your glaze or find a new one. For this type of detail work to show through, look into a white body or a slip. Sgraffito is another option.

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Thank you for all the ideas.......... underglaze pencils sound like they could work.  I was reading an article by Judith King and she echoes my feelings:  half of her wants to draw and paint, and the other half to make things with clay.  I'm hoping the pencils will give me that "drawing feeling" on my clay and still maintain their fine lines after firing.  

 

It's an adventure!

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  • 6 months later...

Tube lining is the term for these fine line. I use a sawed off ear syringe with a hypodermic needle

Marcia,

 

Do you apply it to bisque or greenware? Is the surface flat or you make a groove prior to underglaze application?

Any suggestions on a Cone 5-6 transparent glaze that wouldn't destroy the colors?

 

Thank you.

 

Mike

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When I was going through my last figurative phase, I settled on a technique that reminded me a little of etching.  I scratched fine lines into a leatherhard (on the dry side) pot, then bisqued.  I then wiped a black stain wash onto the piece, which darkened the fine lines, then wiped it off.

 

This mermaid bowl is an example:

 

 

post-65900-0-42029100-1433172315_thumb.jpg

post-65900-0-42029100-1433172315_thumb.jpg

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You might try Amaco Zinc Free Clear. The bottle says cone 5/6. I fire to cone six and this is what I use over my underglaze decoration and painting. It is a gloss but I have found a thin coat gives almost a satin look rather than a hard shiny appearance. Using a zinc free clear keeps the zinc in the glaze from messing with your underglaze colors. Using regular clear some weird stuff can happen to your colors, I've had black turn blue, other colors run like mad, some colors disappear entirely, etc. When I started using the zinc free clear all the weirdness went away... Well all the weirdness concerning the colors at least the general weirdness of my life is still in force. LOL

 

T

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ok, the truly needle fine black lines are done through wax with a needle tool.  then the black is painted on the lines and wiped off the wax.  mckenzie smith showed a workshop full of people how this is done.  works great, those lines were this thin and this black----------------------

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... When I started using the zinc free clear all the weirdness went away... Well all the weirdness concerning the colors at least the general weirdness of my life is still in force. LOL

T

Based on what you have just said, I think I have major Zinc defeciency......lol

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Thank you guys.

 

Pugaboo,

 

Have you tried the zinc-free glaze over iron oxide? I found that several clear glazes I used kills iron oxide or Amaco Velvet terracotta color underglaze (that, I presume, contains iron oxide).

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ok, the truly needle fine black lines are done through wax with a needle tool.  then the black is painted on the lines and wiped off the wax.  mckenzie smith showed a workshop full of people how this is done.  works great, those lines were this thin and this black----------------------

I brush on a little wax to "wash" the excess colorant off the waxed areas, since wiping sometimes disturbs the wax around the fine lines and water can seep into the lines' edges. This also provides a coating of wax into the lines if additional layers of glaze are to be added. A clear glaze can be used instead for the "wash" to fill the incised lines for a smoother fired surface.

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When I was going through my last figurative phase, I settled on a technique that reminded me a little of etching.  I scratched fine lines into a leatherhard (on the dry side) pot, then bisqued.  I then wiped a black stain wash onto the piece, which darkened the fine lines, then wiped it off.

 

This mermaid bowl is an example:

 

That's awesome!  Very nice illustrative style.

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The thinnest lines I have been able to do, was to use a 00000 size paintbrush, draw the line with underglaze paint and then to scrape the line to the desired thickness with a knife. Else it can also work to carve the line into greenware, bisque fire, and then use manganese oxide or black underglaze paint to "flow" into the line. Either way it remains a difficult task requiring a steady hand.

 

lots of luck with this!

SusanL 

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Michael- Sorry for the delay in answering

I haven't had any drastic changes in the RIO when covered by the zinc free clear.

 

I a,so second the painting a layer of wax into leatherhard clay then inscribing the lines with a sharp tool like a needle tool. Then you take your underglaze or other liquid medium and brush over the finished area. The lines will grab the color and the waxed parts will bead up. Simply dab any beads of color you don't want. Bisque fire as usual. You can then add additional layers of color and such after bisqued.

Technique gives very nice fine lines.

 

T

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